SEF

iTrader: (39)

The old engine mounts are taller and is another method for preventing contact between the clutch bell and chassis. The old mounts also have a smaller footprint and allow you to use locknuts on the bolts that fasten the engine mount plate to the chassis.

jeromerc

iTrader: (8)

It really helps with the flex in the stock chassis and even in the hard version chassis. I have it on 2 of my 3 k cars one chassis each and I absolutely love it! The price might be a bit high to some but the king headz is even more expensive since you need the entire kit.

jeromerc

iTrader: (8)

I just put a new bell on a different engine and will test it in about two hours and will tell you if there are any marks on the bell to confirm but from what I have seen in testing and the reduced flex I am going to say NO need to drill the chassis. Again I will confirm this later.

jeromerc

iTrader: (8)

I have been testing the new engine plate for over two weeks. It does work and why spend tons more making a cnc part when a stamped one works and is much cheaper to produce? Where is the logic in making something much more expensive than needed? That cost would just be handed to the consumers. Also since this is simply a flex issue and the only real time that a chassis bends is in a horrific crash or when the chassis is old and thin, this means that the plate only limits a quick tweak of the body so there would be no difference between a stamped or cnc part 99% of the time if not 100% of the time. Many of the pros might not be running them simply because they haven't been shipped yet or they already have their chassis drilled which means they don't have the need for it yet. I bet next year or later on in the year as they replace their cars you will see many pros using the plate. My personal feeling is that it is a great upgrade and in fact a friend currently at the Bitty Contest currently going on in Thailand found out the hard way that he should have bought the plate from me before he left as he punched a hole through his chassis and possibly damaged his engine as a result. All of my testing has been on old bells that have touched a few times, but... I did mark my bells and have not had any of the marks rub off since I installed them.

Punter69

iTrader: (2)

No I don't think so it's social media or nothing

I've uploaded one picture especially for you aaron125 as about 10% of the car is left from the one I got off you 18months or so ago

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Do you guys replace the universals when the pins wear out, or are you buying replacement pins?

Drip

iTrader: (6)

Pins once then replace the while thing

Hollywood_26

iTrader: (24)

I have been having issues with my clutch backing off. I have been running Orion engines and had this problem every couple of weekends of racing. I just just switched over to an O.S. Speed Spec II. I had the same problem yesterday in my first day racing the O.S. I am using the Kyosho collet that comes with the kit and thinking that might be the problem. My thought is that the collet is not the right size and is allowing the flywheel to back off slightly and hang up. Has anyone else had this issue? Is the solution a different collet? If so, which collet should I run? Thanks in advance for the help.

K_King

iTrader: (47)

What size are they and what tool do you use?

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

That's all good, but the pins seem to be extremely difficult to find as they're a tiny bit smaller than every other brands pins.

Where do you buy your replacement pins from?

segreda

Do you shim between the bearing and the collet?? I always use shims there and have speeds and Orion engines and never had problems

Hollywood_26

iTrader: (24)

I have a shim between the bearing and the collet.

segreda

I think that Its a collet problem... Also check if there is some grease there

My ST-RR EVO

iTrader: (5)

Is it that the flywheel nut is coming loose? Are you using the entire Kyosho clutch system? How new is it or reused is it?

gavaust

iTrader: (22)

Aaron iam pretty sure you get them from pro futuba shop