Losi 8ight building and setup
#6635
don't forget about Go-Tech engines I've been running them for over 17 months and I'm really impressed with the performance and durability for the price. EG my first Go was a 7pt it was still on the original bearings and internals after 8 gallons (32 litres) I replaced the rod and bearings at that point and its still going now after another 4 gallons and the compression is still ok
Adrian
#6636
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Fort Worth, Texas, USA, North America, Earth, Solar System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe
Posts: 4,034
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
I did this with flourescent yellow and flourescent red:
That was my first attempt at a "carbon type look."
Since these are flourescent colors and not opaque, I did the solid color first, then backed it with the pattern. If you were using opaque colors do the pattern first. All you do is apply "drawer liner" from the hardware store (the foamy stuff with holes to keep tools from sliding around) and spray. Not EXACTLY like carbon fiber, but darned close.
Practice on a section from a 2-liter soda bottle or similar first to get the effect you want, test colors, etc.
Yes, it has some mistakes, I'm just learning to paint... and that was a Majestic body for my old Mugen. Obviously the windows are still taped off and it isn't trimmed in those pics.
#6637
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Hey,
I have an 8ight and so far loved it for the half of season I raced it. Everyone except me has sold their 8ight's at my home track, and most people are telling me to get a Jammin or Kyosho because they are easier to drive, durable and more people will have them. Or get the RC8 because it's a forgiving car. I really don't want to go through the hassle of a new buggy, and honestly never thought there was any wrong with my 8ight. I've only had the occasional problem from me having a brain fart and the car so far has not broken.
Are their arguments right or did they not give the car enough time?
Thanks,
Zach
I have an 8ight and so far loved it for the half of season I raced it. Everyone except me has sold their 8ight's at my home track, and most people are telling me to get a Jammin or Kyosho because they are easier to drive, durable and more people will have them. Or get the RC8 because it's a forgiving car. I really don't want to go through the hassle of a new buggy, and honestly never thought there was any wrong with my 8ight. I've only had the occasional problem from me having a brain fart and the car so far has not broken.
Are their arguments right or did they not give the car enough time?
Thanks,
Zach
#6641
i got my new flex chassis today and starting to put everything on it but have one question. i am currently using the aluminum braces front and rear just wondering if i should go back to the plastic ones. our track usually gets quite blown out on race days but is still hard pack and we use hole shots.
#6644
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
There are a lot of cool little tricks you can do to the Losi to make it work better. Are there flaws? Sure. All cars have them. In the right hands all of them can be fast.
Keep your head down and stick with what you are doing. Ask questions.
I'll send you setup sheets that are much more neutral and very adjustable.
Give a full year, and if you think there is something better, then give it a try.
Right now is the worst time to switch! Kyosho & Jammin among many others, are about to come out with new cars due to the Worlds event. Who ever your friends are that told you the Associated is more forgiving should seriously have their head examined. Athletic and precise?..... Yes. Forgiving?..... Hell No.
Have fun.
TEX
#6645
Tech Regular
I have a 8ight T race roller that I've just put all the running gear in and broken in the engine. Everything is running great so far but I am not sure I've done the right thing regarding bolting the engine in.
The instructions call for loctiting the motor screws with the included loctite, which I've done, but also spraying the screws with motor spray, which I didn't do.
The screws seem to be impossible to back out now. Any suggestions on getting them out ? and does spraying them first stop this from happening or do you just not loctite them at all (I only put a tiny amount on) ?
The instructions call for loctiting the motor screws with the included loctite, which I've done, but also spraying the screws with motor spray, which I didn't do.
The screws seem to be impossible to back out now. Any suggestions on getting them out ? and does spraying them first stop this from happening or do you just not loctite them at all (I only put a tiny amount on) ?