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Old 05-08-2009, 11:17 AM   #8386
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All I found was for the 2.0
The ones he linked are for the 1.0.
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:44 PM   #8387
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my 8ight 1.0 is pushing way too wide off throttle. i'm having a hard time going through those 180 degree turns at the track. i always have to blip the throttle abruptly and hard to break traction at the rear so i can get it to rotate. any advice on how i can increase off-throttle steering? below is my setup. i've been running M2 bowties or M3 crimefighters with similar results. the tracks i run on are medium-to-hard packed with a layer of loose dirt/dust on top.

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Old 05-12-2009, 04:27 AM   #8388
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Default my new ride :)

I know the paint scheme isn't original, but I like it
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:35 AM   #8389
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Talking my new ride

a couple more...thanks for bearing with me
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:18 AM   #8390
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Hard to say without knowing what your toe settings are. More toe out in front will give you more turn in steering, less toe in rear should make it roll better through the middle. I run 1-22 deg toe out in front, 3/3 in the rear. Might try rasing the rear ride height, should put a little more static weight on the front of the car. Or take the droop out of the rear, should transfer more weight to the front when you brake.
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:33 AM   #8391
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Hard to say without knowing what your toe settings are. More toe out in front will give you more turn in steering, less toe in rear should make it roll better through the middle. I run 1-22 deg toe out in front, 3/3 in the rear. Might try rasing the rear ride height, should put a little more static weight on the front of the car. Or take the droop out of the rear, should transfer more weight to the front when you brake.
i try to to run about 1 deg of toe out front and the rear is stock at 3 deg of toe in. i didnt put it because i don't have a gauge to really measure it with; it's purely eyeballing.
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:32 AM   #8392
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Find a gauge and try 2 deg toe out up front. If you haven't already, switch the stock rear toe block to one with 3 deg anti squat. That will help more with on-ower steering, but if you're in the middle of the corner you ought to be on power anyway LOL.
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:07 AM   #8393
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Find a gauge and try 2 deg toe out up front. If you haven't already, switch the stock rear toe block to one with 3 deg anti squat. That will help more with on-ower steering, but if you're in the middle of the corner you ought to be on power anyway LOL.
yea, i just need more turn in on entry so that the car squares up a little earlier in the turn so that it's ready for some on-power throttle. what's happening is at mid-turn i'm still perpendicular to the 180deg turn so if i get on my throttle in a nice and smooth manner, i end up slamming into the wall. i always have to give it more throttle than i should just so i can break traction at the rear to get the car to rotate. the problem with that is, the car becomes unstable and i end up losing speed at the exit.
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Old 05-12-2009, 12:02 PM   #8394
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Never had that problem with my 8ight. Might not be setup related. Be sure you're getting full turn to both sides on your steering servo. Make sure there's nothing binding. Maybe servo saver, but I'd expect that to hurt you in sweepers, not in tight sections.
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Old 05-12-2009, 12:55 PM   #8395
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Never had that problem with my 8ight. Might not be setup related. Be sure you're getting full turn to both sides on your steering servo. Make sure there's nothing binding. Maybe servo saver, but I'd expect that to hurt you in sweepers, not in tight sections.
i've already made sure i'm getting full turn on my steering servo/rack. what should i look for in the servo saver and how does it hurt steering? i thought that they were just used to absorb some of the force fed back from bumps/impacts so that it wouldn't damage the servo.
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:25 PM   #8396
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Your servo saver has a spring in it. You're right, it's made so if the wheels take a hard hit, the saver slips and saves damage to the servo. But, the spring has to have enough tension on it to turn the wheels without slipping. If the spring is worn out or the nut is too lose then the saver slips too early and you lose steering. Usually you notice it in high speed corners, the car will want to drift out in the middle of the turn. Probably not your problem unless the car is pushing at high speed too. The manual tells you how to set the spring tension. I'd change the toe out first, then maybe the ride height if that doesn't help. Disconnect the shocks from the a-arms too and make sure everything moves freely. Bent pins or binding arms can really throw off the handling of a car b/c the weight doesn't transfer when it should.
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:37 PM   #8397
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Your servo saver has a spring in it. You're right, it's made so if the wheels take a hard hit, the saver slips and saves damage to the servo. But, the spring has to have enough tension on it to turn the wheels without slipping. If the spring is worn out or the nut is too lose then the saver slips too early and you lose steering. Usually you notice it in high speed corners, the car will want to drift out in the middle of the turn. Probably not your problem unless the car is pushing at high speed too. The manual tells you how to set the spring tension. I'd change the toe out first, then maybe the ride height if that doesn't help. Disconnect the shocks from the a-arms too and make sure everything moves freely. Bent pins or binding arms can really throw off the handling of a car b/c the weight doesn't transfer when it should.
just checked the servo saver and there's definitely plenty of tension left and i know i set the nut correctly since i did that very carefully during my build to make sure that it was right. i'll give the toe out and ride height a shot and also check the a-arms and other parts. would changing front camber links and shock mount locations to a more aggressive setup help?
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Old 05-12-2009, 02:28 PM   #8398
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I wouldn't. Your setup is very close to the Truhe setup that most people use as a baseline. I can usually keep my car close to the rail whether it's on or off power. You only want to change one thing at a time anyway. Make sure the suspension is free, then set your toe, then try ride height. Small changes make a big difference with this car. If it's the 8ight 1.0, check the rear outer hinge pins and make sure they're not bent. They've been known to do that. You can go either to the 2.0 hing pins or M2C makes some also. A little bigger, you have to drill the a-arm and hub carrier, but no more bending.
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Old 05-12-2009, 02:58 PM   #8399
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I wouldn't. Your setup is very close to the Truhe setup that most people use as a baseline. I can usually keep my car close to the rail whether it's on or off power. You only want to change one thing at a time anyway. Make sure the suspension is free, then set your toe, then try ride height. Small changes make a big difference with this car. If it's the 8ight 1.0, check the rear outer hinge pins and make sure they're not bent. They've been known to do that. You can go either to the 2.0 hing pins or M2C makes some also. A little bigger, you have to drill the a-arm and hub carrier, but no more bending.
gotcha. thanks for all of your suggestions, i appreciate it.
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:17 PM   #8400
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im not sure if this question has been asked but I could not find anything on it but what are the different effects of useing the long ackerman vs the short ackerman.
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