cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

Pretty sure the rear center shaft is longer and won't work with the 1.0 chassis. You might crowbar it in there but when the chassis flexes it ain't gonna be good. I think the diameter of the new f/r shafts is also a little bigger but the front should work fine, pins are supposed to be a little harder also.

Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

Thanks, so all I need is a rear case to be able to convert it over? (and probably the shims)
I read somewhere that the difference in the shafts is becuase they are now stronger.

ABURTON

iTrader: (24)

If you guys are talking about this part #

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...dproduct=11567


I'm not sure on the thickness but I know for certain the material is harder. In turn this helps the pin from wearing into the bone(wheel side). If you notice your car would always start pushing or not turning as much when a groove developed. Once flipped to opposite sides then you had it all back again. This was meant to help with that issue. I have had these on my car since a few weeks before the worlds and they look good even now.

pwnzor

iTrader: (66)

Are the cnc braces a necessity, or simply a tuning option for certain tracks? I just got my 8ight 1.0 and it has the plastic braces.

MikeFriery

iTrader: (19)

are you talking about the chassis braces?

if so, most people dont run them because more flex in the chassis = good.

Some people i know run front aluminum chassis braces to help prevent excess strain on the servo cases from the chassis flexing, which in theory can cause broken ears.

pwnzor

iTrader: (66)

yes sir, the chassis braces, sorry for not clearly stating that. Ok cool man, I think I will just run with the stock braces, thanks for your reply Mike....cheers!

stevoreno007

I have the 1.0 and will be slowly upgrading to 2.0 parts where possible and where it makes sense. (I can't believe they're not offering an upgrade kit - seems like they'd make a ton on that)

1st - I'm thinking about switching to the 2.0 radio tray. I pay special attention to the setup and I've never lost a throttle servo, but know that so many others have (I definitely don't want to rehash the setup vs. design flaw debate) and I figure the reason they changed it is to reduce or eliminate that problem.

Has anyone done this, and if so, did you also have to use the linkage kit for the 2.0 or will the original linkage work?

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

You will need the 2.0 linkage .

pwnzor

iTrader: (66)

what is the best quick change engine mount for the 8ight......Im looking at the KHZ, is that a good choice?

Integra

iTrader: (8)

depends...i run the KH to help with the flex near the CB/spur....but other's let it flex away.......i found the losi mount to Stick a little more when trying to remove it.......it all boils down to personal preference.

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

I also like the KH mount better and I run the KH cnc chassis braces .

pwnzor

iTrader: (66)

cool cool.........I think Im going for this one.........cheers!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12776

SCUBA STEVE

iTrader: (89)

That mount will stiffen the chassis possibly making the car feel a little loose... You may want to check out the KH standard mount or the Losi mount which is a little beefier but not extended. All are very good mounts though!

stevoreno007

Good to know.

I was also going to ask what the difference was between the 1.0 and 2.0 trays, but I decided to take a look at the Losi site. They state the position of the throttle servo is the difference. Makes sense - that's why you need the 2.0 linkage.

Is a radio tray brace/stiffener still a good idea on the 2.0 tray or is it no longer necessary?

CaLaBeR

iTrader: (2)

The stiffener is not longer needed as the 2.0 brace is reinforced in the flexible areas in the old tray.