micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

I personaly run the losi clutchbell bearings and only blow out the rear. I found that with the avid bearings there was little to no notice before the bearing completly went where as with the losi ones they get crunchy before they will go.

tex1

iTrader: (4)

I ran at my LHS' track this weekend with the new Tuned Flex Chassis. I ran the same set of tires for all three heats and main that I ran the week prior. There were three different sets for the heats and the main. This way I was starting off with the exact same rubber under as close of conditions as possible on the exact same track.
All of the lap times were the same difference for the given set of tires.

These are the time differences for the two weeks.
Panthers KIIs = 31.86/30.92 Ave
Worn Proline BowTies M3 = 30.81/30.34 Ave
1 Run BowTies M3 = 30.4/29.93 Ave

I picked up a considerable amount of time over the run from the first week. I noticed the car flexing and clinging to the track 's surface and it would not get upset as easy. This meant I could push it harder and be more aggressive on the jumps and through the turns.

How much more traction did it have? Week one was fairly moist track which is odd for the conditions we normally race in. Week II was dry and everyone was complaining how slick it was. My tires were more worn for Week II's testing.

All I can say it this is a very nice improvment for an already fine and capable car.

Nice job Losi! Now fix that darn servo saver!

Hellsavage

I just saw this one
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=15089

Whats your thoughts about it.
I don't think it wil be any good but who knows.

mzl Hellsavage

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Well first thing I noticed, its only $55...
So thats like 1/2 of the losi chassis...
Would be curious if it works as good?

air8

iTrader: (7)

Interesting find there, Hellsavage. Long time no see.

I wonder if that chassis from RCMushroom will be shot peened and hard ano'd like the stock Losi chassis. I'm one of those believers in "You get what you pay for"

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

that chassis looks like it is lightned even more than the losi chassis and has the side cuts like the new losi chassis. However, what al. is it made out of and is if 4mm thick like the stock losi chassis?

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

Finally got my 12 HD diff cups in today. they have fixed the problem with them binding up and they are buttery smooth. Next week i need to get 4 sets of lightned outdrives and 2 50t spurs. Man 2 classes are killing me!

MaTt 93

iTrader: (8)

Hi,
i'v just got my losi 8ight and was wondering what would be some good hop-ups to get and if there is any mods that can be done tp make it go better

Matt

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

The only useful hop-ups I know of are the "tuned flex chassis," and the longer hubs, for performance. (I think Tex did something interesting with gearing, but I'll leave that explanation to him.)

For reliability, the aftermarket motor mount that has a "finger" running forward to prevent flex at the flywheel hole/diff hole.

For easy access to the center diff to work on it, there is a 2-piece center diff mount, but IMHO not worth $70.

Kcdzim

iTrader: (1)

These are the good ones for ease of wear and maintenance...

aluminum Rear gearbox bearing inserts.
CVD condoms.
aluminum servo saver arm.
aluminum center diff front bearing adapter.

Depending on how it wears for you, you may consider getting the heavy duty diff cases.

Most pro setup sheets specify the 3/3 rear hingepin plate. Or you get the adjustable versions.

Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

What are some screw sizes that you should keep on hand for the 8ight?

Also, does anyone here use skid plates?

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

A few other upgrades that I have on my ride, King Headz radio tray stiffener, aluminum steering rack brace, aluminum losi servo saver top arm, and flex washers under the rear of the radio tray. Hope that helps!

air8

iTrader: (7)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/18807
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9775
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13549
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/10278
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/14646
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13553
And aluminum clutch shoes.
Loctite your servo saver adjuster nut. Do this after you find the setting you like though.
Add a piece of lexan to the bottom of the battery compartment. The plastic boss for the screw will rub on the RX battery. some batteries have been broken by this.

I run all the plastic braces, no tray stiffeners, or chassis stiffeners. I don't run "flexy whatever" under the radio tray. Sometimes I leave the rear radio tray screw loose, but for the most part I forget to leave it loose and there's no issues. Just be sure to set your EPA and that the carb moves as close to a straight line as possible.

Cory B

iTrader: (5)

The Losi 8ight is best when driven bone stock (with a couple of exceptions)

The aluminum rear diff inserts are a must

get an aluminum steering servo arm

the quick change motor mount assembly is nice

and I also use the adjustable toe plates, front and rear.

I wouldnt waste your money on fancy aluminum braces and hardware that you dont need. all it does is make your car heavier and handle like crap.

I recently switched my set up from a "pro" set up to the Losi Race Roller "easy to drive" set up and LOVE it!!

car handles great, turns really well, and is surprisingly stable!

air8

iTrader: (7)

I agree. The items I have listed above were due to breakage, or excessive wear, or ease of maintenance. Like the front inner hinge pin brace. That's not necessary, but I sure did break a lot of the plastic covers. So I eventually switched to an aluminum one.