cornerspeed

No way, now I'm in trouble.

I am running the Drake set-up except for rear shocks 56 pistons and 25 losi oil. Green springs on front and silver rear. 5-7-3 diff oils. That's about it.

I have an extra set of aluminum chassis braces NIB if you want. Sell them to you cheap. There an extra set.

satoch

I would like to start a discussion on RC braking systems. The Losi 8 doesn't really offer anything unique in this area.

It's my opinion that RC braking systems are quite simple and very much lacking the finesse necessary to bring any given vehicle to the next level.

I don't think it's possible to rely solely on the radio systems to make up for these inadequecies.

Your opinions?

Turbine_au

iTrader: (6)

Can your brakes stop the car quickly and with minimal fade? If you answered yes, then the brakes are fine by me.

satoch

I don't find that stopping quickly is always the best approach. Slowing down in a controlled manner is what I'm looking for. Do Formula One guys slam on the brakes at each corner? No.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

humm i thought you were only susposed to use brakes to change pitch in the air?

satoch

I'd venture to guess that you're rarely in the A-Main with that approach.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

accually won my last amain by 3 laps

and my 1st post was a joke. i use brakes just dont slam and hold on them.

RETRO RC

hey Justin nice pics. really like the look of that centre diff mount where did you get it from.

just started running a 8 had about 4 litres through it so far. my first meeting was a regional championship in new zealand finished 6th in the main (38 buggies) and i had only finished building it the night before practice

haven't had any probs servo wise touch wood running a futaba 9451 on the throttle and ace ds1015 steering, novarossi plus21-5t, KO ex 10 and pro spectrum

I'm using the kingheads radio stiffener and had to cut down the return spring by 6 coils and the ball cup by 2mm to get enough clearance at full brake. As a precation I also cut down the sides of the radio tray to give me about 2-3mm both sides of the throttle servo

one of the guys over here has blown 5 servos 4 of witch were ace 1015's !! hopefully I can sort it out for him this weekend

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Well, yes, they do actually. They don't skid uncontrollably but they brake to within the very limit of the available traction. They stop as quickly as possible.

I am going to try this with my radio- I am going to put a piece of fuel tubing between the brake side of the trigger and the body of the radio to act as a much stiffer spring. The amount of throw combined with the light spring tension makes for very little "feel" at the trigger. If the spring was more progressive then the brakes could be used more proportionally.

Ronny.A

Hi guys

After reading hundreds of 8ight pages here & there, I'd like to know what Brand of servos people have been using. I mean that I would like to have correct info/Brand from the one that have broken them, and I would like to know what Brand was/is used by those of you whom haven't had a problem at all. I think I'm starting to see a pattern on this, and maybe we can figure it out.

I myself use Futaba 9351 servos.

From what I see/read - there are certain servos that dies much easier then others, and in some cases where a High End servo dies, they are set up wrong.

And from what I have seen/read, nobody has expressed there concern regarding the servo-trays "pole" that presses on the servos wires. With cheap servos, vibration, heat weakening solder-joints etc, the wires may get ripped on the print-board.

Also, for those of you who have had there servos die, just to the "magically" work again Open the bottom of your servo, there you will find small pearls f water that has build up due to condens! (hope that's the correct English word). If not, I'll explain further ok.

At this time of year, it's cold. When you are out driving your car - the engine & servos will heat up. Then your car sits still for a little while, and the warmt inside your servos gets rapidly cooler due to the Now cold wether. This turns into condes (water) as soon as you fire up your buggy.

And
this is the main reason for the condes, your HEAT-GUN! This really really build condes within seconds, and your servos WILL start acting very perculiar for sure.

Hope this will help some of you get thru the winter-racing a bit easier now

Btw, if you wondering how I know, I live in NORWAY

satoch

[QUOTE=Davidka] They don't skid uncontrollably but they brake to within the very limit of the available traction. They stop as quickly as possible.

QUOTE]

David, thanks Captain Obvious. While I may not have stated the problem, as I see it, in the best possible terms my meaning should be easy enough to understand. As I see it, RC car braking systems are not nearly as far along as they could/should be IMO.

Turbine_au

iTrader: (6)

They stop the car, what more do you want them to do?

Andyg01

I don't have an 8ight.

Could someone say which is the largest RX pack that will fit out of these, all Lipo

1500 7,4V
2S1P RX Only
52 x 31 x 22 mm
AAA Hump

2200
2S1P RX Only
85 x 30 x 20 mm
2/3A Straight

2300 7,4V
2S2P RX Only
55 x 32 x 34,5 mm
2/3A Hump

Thanks

Andyg01

assume this will fit ok ?

Laterilus

Satoch, I do think you are correct for the most part as the braking systems in our R/C vehicles do seem to usually only work in a discrete manner (on or off). It would be nice if they helped control the cars a bit more, but the problem I see is mostly due to the scale of the cars we run (or at least in this forum). If I'm understanding you correctly, you really don't like the two-disk system in the middle of the car far away from the points of contact (the wheels) they are attempting to control? If you are looking for a more sophisticated braking system, I'd suggest looking at the 1/4 and 1/5 scale on-road racing cars. Those cars all have disk brake systems on each of the wheels. I would venture a bet that they all work in a more controled manner so that you don't spin out or at least start swaying off to one side or the other while just trying to slow down. The big difference of course is that 1/4 and 1/5 cars have much more space to put in those complex systems. If you want to try getting more controlled braking from your 1/8 or 1/10 car, you can always try setting up the anti-lock system in your radio. It's far from easy to do, but it does work if you take the time to set it up. I always found though that I'm entirelly too lazy and would prefer getting in more practice time or just plain 'fun' time around the track as opposed to getting my brakes just right for the track by messing with the anti-lock on the radio. The main problem I always found is that it has to be changed constantly for the differing track conditions or when you just go to another track. It can work though if you put in the time and get all the pulses just right so that your car still tracks straight (or keeps the correct line while turning) while slowing down.