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Old 09-06-2015, 06:00 PM   #586
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I put about 200 laps on 2 different pro5's and poof 3 pairs of c-hubs gone i played around and until the problem is fixed i will be putting a bd7 front end on both cars. It will work but will need djc axles from yok as well.
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:37 PM   #587
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The steering post is too long so the steering arm has plenty of play in it up and down. Shimming doesn't work either as the 3X5 needs to push the arm down further onto the shaft. A little disappointing they over looked that as surely Andy or Gilles should have picked that up in development stages. Anyway, has anybody got a remedy? I.e. File the post down .5mm?
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I'm having a difficult time believing that they "overlooked" this. There's been so much attention to the car that this is either a) a manufacturing defect that's out of tolerance or b) it was designed this way.

Regarding b), please correct me on this... I could have sworn that I read somewhere that people were actually playing around with slop in the steering posts/arms since it gave them more traction. I think I read this from an article during the TC worlds. I'm pretty sure I read that somewhere. Can someone from HB comment on whether this is actually a manufacturing defect or "by design". But then again, if it's a manufacturing defect, you would owe quite a few people a new replacement part. So maybe I doubt you'd admit to this.
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:55 AM   #588
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I'm having a difficult time believing that they "overlooked" this. There's been so much attention to the car that this is either a) a manufacturing defect that's out of tolerance or b) it was designed this way.

Regarding b), please correct me on this... I could have sworn that I read somewhere that people were actually playing around with slop in the steering posts/arms since it gave them more traction. I think I read this from an article during the TC worlds. I'm pretty sure I read that somewhere. Can someone from HB comment on whether this is actually a manufacturing defect or "by design". But then again, if it's a manufacturing defect, you would owe quite a few people a new replacement part. So maybe I doubt you'd admit to this.
Most of the new TC's on the market do have this "slop" both my 419 and BD7 had this as well, not quite to this extent but did have some slop. I've shimmed it with a .1mm shim beneath the arm and seems to move smoothly without much up down play.

Overall the car is awesome, the diff is smooth. Not driven it yet but it's coming together well.
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Old 09-07-2015, 06:41 PM   #589
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I put a yokomo bd7 front end on my car today. I was soo amazed that it fit with no issues what so ever. The c hibs didnt brake once. The geometry is identical and just flawless installation.

The yok parts i used...

Arm
C hub
Outer pin
Steering knuckles
Cva
Sway bar ends.

After installation i put it on the setup station to check alignment and it was exactly where it was when i had the pro5 parts.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:15 PM   #590
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Just going to ask, at what point does it make sense to drive a car you have so many parts from another on. Why not just drive that car?
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:42 PM   #591
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Just going to ask, at what point does it make sense to drive a car you have so many parts from another on. Why not just drive that car?
haha i was just thinking the same thing. but i'm going to put yoke parts on mine until they fix this c hub issue
What are the part numbers?
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:58 PM   #592
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Just going to ask, at what point does it make sense to drive a car you have so many parts from another on. Why not just drive that car?
The main reason is the fragle c hub issue. You could get awat with just c hub and steering knuckle if you ream out the c hub to the pin size. I will have part numbers soon i raided my buddy's yokomo spare parts to try it!
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Old 09-08-2015, 03:20 PM   #593
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I don't get it, how can HPI/Hotbodies justify a $500.00 price on a car that doesn't hold up. For that kind of money I should not have to replace the front end just to be able to finish a race. You guys should send the message that this is not cool...
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:13 AM   #594
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I'm not sure what you guys are doing to be breaking so many C Hubs. I've broken two so far - both of which were on an indoor 'boards' style track. And both times as soon as I'd clipped the corner I knew I should have broken something - honestly I'm quite impressed that nothing else has broken or bent.

I'd personally much prefer that the C Hub breaks, than (as you get with other manufacturers) something like a suspension mount bends, which you don't then see for ages and wonder why the car feels weird.

We're having some great results with the car here in the UK, and the team is super friendly and easy to work with!
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:44 PM   #595
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Great point! Agree 100%

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Originally Posted by theproffesor View Post
Just going to ask, at what point does it make sense to drive a car you have so many parts from another on. Why not just drive that car?
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:54 PM   #596
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I remember when i owned a TCX for one race and broke c hubs so many times i had to sell it off. C hubs broke if it even got near a wall weak graphite composite crap. Cant believe they would use the same weak material hubs on this otherwise awesome looking car!😥

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Hi is anyone else having the same trouble as I am. The carbon graphite c hubs are so weak and break on the slightest knock. Haven't tried the TCXX hubs yet but does anyone know if the BD7 c hubs would fit??
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Old 09-13-2015, 01:24 PM   #597
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I have one of these for sale for a good price with heaps of spares. Brand new never run with orange alloy and titanium screws.

Pm if anyone is after one
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Old 09-13-2015, 05:09 PM   #598
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what shops in North America have these in stock
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:59 PM   #599
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what shops in North America have these in stock
Tower Hobbies has them in stock. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFEMA&P=ML
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Old 09-15-2015, 08:49 PM   #600
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If anybody from HB reads this please forecast your part production runs better. I've got one sitting on my bench that I'm too scared to drive because I cannot get parts for it.
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