uscgretired

iTrader: (11)

Asked LHS to order a TC6.2 for me, plan on running VTA. I have been perusing this thread, lots of great info, was wondering if anyone has put together a must have hop ups for this chassis?

Thanks,

Bill

OttoKrosse

iTrader: (4)

Just build it a drive it, most guys running VTA are using older chassis's. If you have to do one mod then make it the DCV axles for the front. The next most popular mod is installing a diff up front, but you won't really NEED it, the car works well right out of the box.....as do most kits these days.

Welcome to the family.

irvinew

+1 on the DCV. Past that I'd really upgrade the shocks. Alot people who do this upgrade the springs to yokomo pinks and blues (you have to mod the cups a tad or pinch the spring on one end); but I had great success upgrading the springs with rsd blue ft/ lt blue rear. Another small thing would be to upgrade the shock bladders with a softer bladder like the rsd clear silicon bladder; Many people drill a tiny hole in the shock cap for zero rebound.

imo if you can only do 1 thing it would be the shocks especially in VTA; a very inexpensive mod.

OttoKrosse

iTrader: (4)

Ditto here on the RSD bladders and lt blue and dark blue springs. Exotek makes a nice aluminum spring perch that works great with the RSD & Associated springs if you don't like the plastic ones.

To the OP: In the interest of saving money start off by just building the car and running it for awhile. Talk to local racers about what works for them at your track, then adjust accordingly. One of our fastest drivers still runs the stock Associated springs so you don't have to go out and change much to make these cars competitive.

uscgretired

iTrader: (11)

Thank for all the insights and suggestions, think I will go out of the box to start as was suggested by OttoKrisse. We have a few guys buying the TC6.2 so we should build some local experience with it quickly and I am sure others will come race with them. I seriously considered the TA club car but have been racing a low end TC on parking lot oval for over two years so I am ready for a quality TC.

Thanks,

Bill

irvinew

Anyone think it is a good idea to upgrade the ball end to the tri-nitride ones? on this car?

johnsonthai

http://www.reflexracing.net/Reflex-R...SD6-_c_73.html
these guys make alot of good performance parts for this car.....Give them a try!

OttoKrosse

iTrader: (4)

I run them, but can't really feel a difference, they sure look cool though.

I suspect that if an A main driver ran them back to back they might be able to tell, but I'm not there yet. At my skill level it was probably a waste of money.

Shock oil, RSD bladders, 3 hole pistons and springs would be a better investment if your looking for a noticeable change....IMHO.

Using a Hudy set-up station would be advised so you can dial-in your car and create a consistent set-up for proper camber and toe. I run between 1-2 degrees of camber depending on our track configuration and about 1/2 -1 degree of toe out.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Sorry I haven't been on in a while, busy with work, life, and practicing for the Reedy Race.

Seeing a lot of posts about people changing out the stock bladders so figured I might chime in because I have tested a few other bladders and keep ending up going back to the stock ones because they feel best to me. For asphalt I build the shocks with about 3mm of rebound and drill a 1mm hole in the shock cap to vent it. HPI Silver springs are my go-to for a starting point at any asphalt track (and I very rarely change them.)

For carpet racing I still use the stock bladder but build the shock with as little rebound as possible. I prefer the feel of a non-vented shock cap for carpet tracks (a Steve Weiss suggestion) and use Yokomo Pink front springs and Yokomo Blue rear springs.

For my driving style I really like the feel of 3x1.1 Yokomo pistons (BD-S113) with 42.5wt AE oil. I typically run that same combo on carpet and asphalt.

Again, these are just suggestions but I'm willing to bet you can show up to just about any track around with those settings and won't be too far off.

On a side note, had a great day of practice yesterday at the Camarillo Roadrunners track. Qualified and finished 2nd but am extremely happy with how my car is working right now. Was using the Reedy Race spec tire but the Sorex 36 was the hot ticket at this track. Next time I'll be on those

https://youtu.be/ev_3tBsoBKw?t=1m49s I'm driving the all white car. Fellow AE drivers Steve Weiss and Jimmy Barnett were also repping the 6.2 in the mod A-Main. I believe they finished 4th and 5th so 3 AE cars in the top 5!

irvinew

I was looking at adjustable shock collars; can anyone tell me what those blue ones on Keven's car was; Yokomo possibly?

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/yokomo-...d-abm6/p242207

Jesse Owens

Definitely give the aluminum chassis a go. It's more consistent with the aluminum chassis in 17.5. reflexracing.net

jamminjim

iTrader: (6)

Hey Jesse, are you running just the chassis or did you get the top deck too?

Jesse Owens

jamminjim, yes RSD top deck and Spec-R1 rear belt. You cannot use stock rear belt or top deck. Also front CF bumper brace, not needed but safe to have.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

The aluminum chassis would be more for carpet racing, not sure if Bill was asking for carpet or asphalt though.

uscgretired

iTrader: (11)

The track I go to has just pulled out the clay and installed carpet, I will keep the aluminum chassis in mind.