Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Hey Sam,

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. While I'm at work not paying attention to rctech, our thread gets buried by the time I get home.

I would suggest going thicker on oil. I'm running much more 500 front and 450 rear at the moment, but actually would like to go thicker. That's closer to AE 45wt front and AE 40 rear. The thicker oil feels like it locks in the car and makes it more predictable. The only thing it might do is give a little understeer in very tight corners, but otherwise it makes the car much more manageable.

I like running the split oil setup on carpet. As Mike mentioned, it makes the car a little more responsive overall.

Standing the rear shocks up will also stabilize the car, just like your previous experience on the Xray.

Let us know if you have anymore questions!

-Korey

NItrox416

There are also big bore spring by ride or arc.
With some little modifications the dampers can also fit normal springs like hpi ones

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

The xray and reflex racing xray springs fit.

Samwise

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Korey!

I made a list of setup changes to try, mostly based on your Timezone II setups online on VBC's website.

I'm thinking 50 wt and 45 wt oils, green or no rear sway bar, anti dive, probably other things I can't remember haha! I'm curious about the solid front FR blocks that VBC just announced. Reminds me of the Xray style solid front and split rear block design. Also on the TC6.2 I think.

A lot of it is learning to drive mod, honestly. Dave thought my car handled well when he drove it during practice. I'm actually considering running 17.5 stock again for a race or two to get used to the car. I'd rather not do that, but I could. We shall see!

Thanks again!
Samwise

NEED-MORE-SPEED

iTrader: (11)

Not sure were to begin here, so I'm hoping to get some positive feedback from several of you? I have tried several kits within the past 12 months including the 1st Gen Wildfire and now I'm currently running the 14 T4. My driving has greatly improved with the Xray, I turn some great times overall and the car is working well for me.

I'm missing something as I feel like I'm driving the living snot out of this car to get within a tenth of fast lap and it's like the car just starts to fall apart mid race and gets harder to drive. I'm not hi-jacking this thread here as I read the majority of everyone driving the D06 has once had the T4 and went with the DO6.

I have been strongly considering getting the DO6, thinking the car will have more to offer me overall. I would be grateful if you DO6 racers can give me some input before I shell out money for my 5th kit and what you gained from switching from the T4 to the VBC. I will also put this out there, I did have the 1st Gen Wildfire last year and lasted 3 weeks as I couldn't go 5 laps without breaking an arm, chub, steering block and even brock the front body mounts. It was a horrible experience as I was scared to even get the car on the track. I also Know the DO6 is a completely new car than the 1st Gen and the composites are better quality. So far I have read nothing but positive reviews about this car and seriously leaning against this chassis.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I'd stick with the green swaybar in the back. Tracks with lots of transient sections still require a rear swaybar to stay flat and responsive through those sections. No rear bar can work if the track is a bunch of tight 180's with very few left/right transitions.

I need to post a more updated carpet setup for our local track. Unfortunately, I only have editable PDFs and can't save it as an uneditable to reduce the filesize. Otherwise I would have posted it already.

Dave also drives very smooth and easy. His driving style suits a car that is a little more pitchy and rolly. People that have a more aggressive driving style usually benefit from something slightly stiffer to keep the car more stable

-Korey

MAD916

For those who pm'd us. We got a pretty decent order in today..........

freebird

iTrader: (3)

well I had the same luck as you did from my Ghost as you with your Wildfire.

freebird

iTrader: (3)

YEAH!!!!!!!!!!

Roedor

Hi,

which chassis do you normally use on asphalt? and which top deck? , when you pay with the top deck screews, what you look for? and which you take out?.

Thank you

sashimi999

iTrader: (8)

It says that 2.25mm chassis is better for asphalt and 1.6mm top can give you even more flex, more side bite as result. But I run with stock parts in med traction track.
I replaced most screws on top including top deck with titanium one from Yeah racing.
7 gram lighter in total. Well, better than nothing.

Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

I feel that the stock chassis works very well on asphalt, as does the flex chassis. The flex chassis I feel has a larger tuning window and is more planted. The stock chassis has a bit of a smaller tuning window, but is great when you find it.

Some of the VBC Racing team drivers only run the flex chassis, whereas I run both and our team driver only runs the stock chassis.

So, I guess to elaborate a bit, each chassis works very well given proper setup, driver and driver preference. On low-medium bite tracks, I personally prefer the flex chassis and the 10 gram weight savings over stock.

freebird

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
There is a huge difference in size between the 2 tracks we race at so there can be big FDR changes.

The upper deck was a freak accident - head on into the building wall along side the straightaway. A rear body tuck made the car fishtail violently and whack - right into the wall!

I hope you ordered Wildfire D06 steering knuckles - much stronger (C hubs are stronger on Wildfire D06 too).

yes most all the parts are from the D06 or the new material that's coming out with the cars different then what you and I got.

Again breakage issue with front end pieces. The grey Kit pieces are not holding up. Replace the left C hub a couple weeks ago. This past week had to change both front body post. Today I had to change front body post again because they were the grey ones. Thankfully I ordered 2 sets from Aps. the ones I installed at the track were black or darker grey I hope they hold up better now.

Also have issue the camber ball end on the vertical block on left side not holding. It has loosened enough that it works its way loose.

Ive also posted this on the Ghost thread; but there isn't much action on that thread. Help from a Team Member or VBC would be great.

Thanks

IIGQ4U

iTrader: (53)

It sounds like you crash a lot. Unfortunately, when people crash, things tend to break break. Though, the D06 is a very durable car. In fact, just yesterday, my friend hit a concrete block while racing and didn't skip a beat. Like any of these cars however, it has its limits.

Generally speaking, the body posts will break with a pretty good frontal impact when using the lightweight bumper. They are typically the sort of impacts that move the front bumper support out of position, which from what I have seen are always hard crashes. If you haven't already, you may want to pick up the hard bumper for your car.

I do not know how long you have owned your car, but items such as ball cups are wear and tear items and should be replaced from time to time. If you change to a new ball cup and are still having issues, then you may just have a bad pack of cups (Very rare).

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I would highly suggest the hard front bumper. This can help protect a the suspension pieces from hard frontal impacts. It maintains it's shape a lot better, yet isn't as hard as a larger bottom/kydex type bumper, so it has very little risk of damaging your chassis plate.

The only downside I see to the hard bumper is it is a little bit heavier. Adding more weight to the very front of the car like that will move the weight distribution forward, changing the way the car handles. More than likely will understeer slightly more, but the difference is small.

Hope that helps!