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Old 11-20-2013, 06:39 AM   #301
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:47 AM   #302
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Ive done 10 races with mine and I havent broken a single plastic part, its been hit into some stuff aswell. Only thing ive broken is a front driveshaft but have some TRF 44mm DCJ's on there way to sort that out
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:34 AM   #303
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:28 PM   #304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mariob62 View Post
My Sakura XI has been thrashed for a year and a half; broken parts = 1 C-hub + 1 top deck. The H4 has 5 steering knuckles broken so far(4 race days), all on light contact; not good. I drive it like I'm walking on eggshells; not pleasant. The front end parts are too fragile & need to be redesigned.
Has been done. See post 268
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:06 AM   #305
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:32 AM   #306
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Originally Posted by mariob62 View Post
That's not a redesign.
If a much tougher break resistant material is used and fixes your problem why does it need to be redesigned? Have you tried the new material parts?
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:06 AM   #307
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:36 AM   #308
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Thanks to everyone who have contributed to this thread, much appreciated!

sorry for the long list of multi-quotes but 20+ pages of thread presents several new questions for the H4e noob

Quote:
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The car is definitely on par with the other kits out there. Its just getting faster and faster. I know there is an optional chassis on the way as well, 2.2 or 2.25mm I'm not sure, that will make the car better on low to medium grip asphalt.
The stock chassis is 2.3mm per the specs in the manual, has anyone confirmed this with a mic?

Has anyone seen any newer chassis plates released yet?

Has anyone made any mods to add more flex to the stock chassis?

I am racing on an asphalt track and the H4e is on the top of my list of considerations to replace a pair of TC6.0 that I've been racing in the USGT and VTA classes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by silencery
I would change the ball studs from 1.5mm to 2.0mm. Some of the ball studs require a lot of torque and I snapped a 1.5mm tip on one.
Have you actually replaced your studs yet, or are you still running with the 1.5's? Did you only have the one break or is this a recurring problem?

Our local club uses hard lumber for track lane dividers, durability is somewhat important (though I'm a fairly consistent driver and willing to make some sacrifices in exchange for better performance) and my TC6 has not disappointed me thus far. I am open to making any suggested mods for a more competitive H4e design.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcwck
It has been noted that a strap requires lotsa of tension to hold down the battery securely and most likely will tweak/preload the chassis. The traditional method of taping down the battery does not require much tension and consequently no/very little preload occurs.
I've never heard this before, can't you simply control tension by easing back on the Velcro strap?

I'm not very fond of tape, I see far too many drivers DNF because their tape failed during a race... the 8" wall boards at our local track are not very forgiving

Quote:
Originally Posted by -R2-
Option parts should be coming soon also and from what I hear is spurs in different pitch and gear numbers
I usually run 64P gears... what are the new pitches going to be? Are they HoBao parts or XRay?

Quote:
Originally Posted by silencery
I broke a DCJ at the inner joint.
I'm trying to create a list of recommended spare parts to accompany my order, do you know if the inner joints are sold separately or do I need to buy the entire shaft assembly? (update: just saw the mod for TRF 44mm DCJ, nice!) Pricing parts is another consideration as I make my final choice with the T4 (2.2mm chassis) being my next top pick if I can't find a thinner chassis for the H4e

Quote:
Originally Posted by mariob62
the motor mount makes it hard to change pinions; wish it was like the one on my Sakura XI.
Can you elaborate more on pinion difficulty? I've been running into problems with my TC6 pinion blocking the screw heads, so I have to set the mesh with loose motor screws, remove the pinion, tighten the screws, then reinsert the pinion... is that the same issue here with the H4e?
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:57 PM   #309
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Wen you run a small spur gear it is a pain to get to the screw behind the spur gear, i used to have this problem with my trf417 so would mesh the gears using just the easy to get to screw then whip the layshaft and spur out, do the other motor screw up and re fit the layshaft and spur assembly.

For 64sp gears most are runnibg xray offset spur gears.

As for spares i bought a set of plastixs (hubs c hubs arms etc) but havent had to use any of them. I also bought a pair of the dcj shafts, ive used one of theae so.far but will be fitting trf 44mm dcjs aoon. Also.bought gear diff gears. Depends on how hard you crash really.

I had an idea about thining down the carbon plates that join the rear bulkhead to the layshaft and motor mount so ita not as wide to get more rear end grip.

Hope thats some help
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Old 11-23-2013, 03:34 AM   #310
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anyone had many issues with leaky shocks?
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:00 AM   #311
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I got a little coming out of the holes in the top caps. When i changed to a thicker oil the level in the shock looked about spot on though
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:47 AM   #312
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billdelong,

You are correct about the tape getting dirty and giving up with usage. I always use a piece of painters tape on top of the filament tap for additional security. Frog painters tape is color coordinated. You only have to replace the Frog tape when you remove the lipo and reinstall it. I never lost a lipo with this method. And yes there's lotsa lead down the center of the chassis.
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Old 11-23-2013, 06:47 AM   #313
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OK Bashers. Buy some 1/8" Kydex and you will almost hardly never ever maybe break any front end partz. Tired of all the whining. My secrete is exposed. 190mm max fur sedans. I will custom make one for you for only $100 and is very cheap in the long run. Lol

Shut up if you don't like it and keep breaking partz. Lol
This car rocks! It's the fastest stock sedan at our local track so far this winter.

7 carpet race days and lotsa practice and everything is still tight slop free. I have built some $500 sedans that are a sloppy mess right out of the box.

Several local carpet racers are Kydex bumper converts and now can finish most races.

The first 2 cars are H4s and the bumper is very easy to fab on that car.

Warning! You may still break rear suspension parts. Rear bumper? No way, that's taking common sense too far.
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Last edited by rcwck; 11-24-2013 at 07:42 PM. Reason: forgot a "Lol"
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Old 11-23-2013, 11:27 PM   #314
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:17 AM   #315
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I have always ran xray. But really thinking about getting this car. I have xray kits since 1999 and yes the first few years I broke parts. Then driving got better and only have broke a few parts in the last several years. Just stay off the boards and parts will not break. What I would love to know is how competitive is the car kit? Can it run with the other kits?
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