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Old 06-01-2016, 09:04 AM   #2701
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Originally Posted by DiscountRCStore View Post
..I've attached a gear chart for you .. for 17.5 generally guys run an FDR between 3.4 and 4.3 depending on track, grip layout etc .. For 48p It looks like you'll need the 70T and some other pinions (30-39T) to get the ratio you're needing.. maybe ask some locals what ratio they run to get yourself in the ballpark .. hope it helps

..p
It doesn't matter tho if it's 48 or 64 pitch right as long as my FFR is in that range correct?
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:17 AM   #2702
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I seem to have a serious issue with my evo. Down the straights on full power my car seems to violently dart right to left so much that I have to lift off to keep it stable. I'm running boosted 13.5. Tried turning down the boost but didn't solve this issue. My friend has the old MI4 running 21.5 motor no boost has a similar issue down the straight as well. All other brands seem to fine. Has anyone experienced similar and what they did to solve this??.
some racers in my area has had this concern. please check your arms for hairline cracks in them also check tweak and shock lengths. to tight rear belt tension can also cause the issue. those are main things to look for.
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:22 AM   #2703
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It doesn't matter tho if it's 48 or 64 pitch right as long as my FFR is in that range correct?
Yes .. correct


..p
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:22 AM   #2704
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some racers in my area has had this concern. please check your arms for hairline cracks in them also check tweak and shock lengths. to tight rear belt tension can also cause the issue. those are main things to look for.
+1
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:08 PM   #2705
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Thanks guys, I do run on asphalt hence the cutting of arms, low grip, I have spare arms which I will replace if it doesnt come right. Straps have been installed and I raised the TPS by 1mm. Will start there and look for hairline cracks in the suspension arms as suggested.
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Old 06-06-2016, 05:51 AM   #2706
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So far I've broken 2axles as a result of light hits against other cars. The axles from the DCJs. That little nipple behind the axle has broken off and lodged itself in the shaft and I had to toss the whole thing out. I've seen other Mi5s with the same issue. I love the car but this is a huge week point and when I go back to the standard shafts, I get lots of chatter on carpet and traction rolling. Any ideas here?
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Old 06-06-2016, 12:15 PM   #2707
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So far I've broken 2axles as a result of light hits against other cars. The axles from the DCJs. That little nipple behind the axle has broken off and lodged itself in the shaft and I had to toss the whole thing out. I've seen other Mi5s with the same issue. I love the car but this is a huge week point and when I go back to the standard shafts, I get lots of chatter on carpet and traction rolling. Any ideas here?

That's been an issue so far with the Roche axles.. unclear why it persists .. that said, it's also odd that you'd now begin to traction roll .. The chattering is normal and will increase the closer the axle gets to steering lock either left or right. The standard axles do give a bit more entry steering but it depends where in the corner your actually rolling at and from the front or rear.. If its basically as you enter the corner, sometimes raising the front roll center and reducing front droop can help ..


..p
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:35 PM   #2708
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Originally Posted by DiscountRCStore View Post
..I've attached a gear chart for you .. for 17.5 generally guys run an FDR between 3.4 and 4.3 depending on track, grip layout etc .. For 48p It looks like you'll need the 70T and some other pinions (30-39T) to get the ratio you're needing.. maybe ask some locals what ratio they run to get yourself in the ballpark .. hope it helps

..p
Will I be faster with a 3.4 ratio or a 4.3? I am trying to understand this ratio thing. I was getting passed up on the straight away Sunday. Currently using 70/33 in 48 pitch.

Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2016, 12:11 AM   #2709
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Will I be faster with a 3.4 ratio or a 4.3? I am trying to understand this ratio thing. I was getting passed up on the straight away Sunday. Currently using 70/33 in 48 pitch.

Thanks.
Better acceleration: 4.3, more top speed: 3.4.
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Old 06-07-2016, 02:50 AM   #2710
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Will I be faster with a 3.4 ratio or a 4.3? I am trying to understand this ratio thing. I was getting passed up on the straight away Sunday. Currently using 70/33 in 48 pitch.

Thanks.
How big is the track? How long is the straight?

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Better acceleration: 4.3, more top speed: 3.4.
+1


..p
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Old 06-07-2016, 05:51 AM   #2711
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About 200ft

Also, I am running 6000 batteries 70C and only charging at 6amp as that is all my Hitec X1 mini will do. Could this also be a contribution to speed?
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:04 AM   #2712
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About 200ft

Also, I am running 6000 batteries 70C and only charging at 6amp as that is all my Hitec X1 mini will do. Could this also be a contribution to speed?

That's a fairly long straight.. Have you checked locally to see what FDR some of the others are running by chance? You'll likely need to keep going up in pinion while checking heat on the motor at 3 minutes or so ( generally < 170* is safe ).. First maybe double check the timing on the can.. most current short stacks like timing in 48-52 degree range.. that can help with some top end.. Then work on the pinions .. For stock racing, motor and battery can become important when you've exhausted all other setup and driving variables but normally more can be found with better setup and or driving.. As for the charging bit.. higher charge rates can yield a bit better punch early in the run however in this case, it doesn't sound like that's the issue at the moment.. When you feel that your getting as much as possible out of the motor, begin looking at minor setup changes like less rear toe, less droop, and things that will free up the car a bit. Freeing up the car will help to reduce motor temps, not drain the cells quite so much and generally aid in carrying more speed throughout the track ... I hope some of this will help get you going in the right direction .. the others may chime in with more ideas as well ...


...p
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:32 AM   #2713
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That's a fairly long straight.. Have you checked locally to see what FDR some of the others are running by chance? You'll likely need to keep going up in pinion while checking heat on the motor at 3 minutes or so ( generally < 170* is safe ).. First maybe double check the timing on the can.. most current short stacks like timing in 48-52 degree range.. that can help with some top end.. Then work on the pinions .. For stock racing, motor and battery can become important when you've exhausted all other setup and driving variables but normally more can be found with better setup and or driving.. As for the charging bit.. higher charge rates can yield a bit better punch early in the run however in this case, it doesn't sound like that's the issue at the moment.. When you feel that your getting as much as possible out of the motor, begin looking at minor setup changes like less rear toe, less droop, and things that will free up the car a bit. Freeing up the car will help to reduce motor temps, not drain the cells quite so much and generally aid in carrying more speed throughout the track ... I hope some of this will help get you going in the right direction .. the others may chime in with more ideas as well ...


...p

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Old 06-07-2016, 12:07 PM   #2714
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I'm just going to run the standard axle setup and see how it goes. I want to stick with the car because Inreally like it and am super quick with it. Besides the axles I'm real fast with it and it's easy to work on. I will run it for a while until I decide what to do.

Anyone know the part number for the shaft that attaches to the DCJs?
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:37 PM   #2715
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I'm just going to run the standard axle setup and see how it goes. I want to stick with the car because Inreally like it and am super quick with it. Besides the axles I'm real fast with it and it's easy to work on. I will run it for a while until I decide what to do.

Anyone know the part number for the shaft that attaches to the DCJs?
I use the spec-r front dcj's and have never had one break.Hope that helps.
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