Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
Mash, hate to break the bad news to you...
Tomorrow night at PRECC is the end of year enduro, trophy presentations and wind-up for the year
Club racing will return early in Jan, either the 1st or 2nd Tuesday of the month. There is however Bayswater, which is on this Sunday and then 2wks after that. Last Bayswater day will be the 21st I believe, with a return around the 1st or 2nd week of January.
Dont let me put you off coming tmw night, you just wont be able to get your car onto the track because of the enduro
-Mark
Tomorrow night at PRECC is the end of year enduro, trophy presentations and wind-up for the year
Club racing will return early in Jan, either the 1st or 2nd Tuesday of the month. There is however Bayswater, which is on this Sunday and then 2wks after that. Last Bayswater day will be the 21st I believe, with a return around the 1st or 2nd week of January.
Dont let me put you off coming tmw night, you just wont be able to get your car onto the track because of the enduro
-Mark
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
PRECC - http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...-car-club.html
BAYSWATER (WCMRC) - http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...ad-racing.html
PRECC and Bayswater are pretty much the two extreme ends of gearing. If you're talking 17.5, I think you need to be in the low 4s for Bayswater and low-mid 3s for PRECC, but I've never run that motor at either location!
I'd ask this same question in the "WA Onroad" thread (which is where stuff about Bayswater gets talked about) as you'll find some guys who have run them at one or both tracks. For Bayswater "Yah" or "Flight_Boy" will be good, but not necessarily have much knowledge of PRECC. Maybe "WAOscar" will have some knowledge of PRECC for 17.5s
Here's what I can comment on..
Note that my preferred ratios for these are somewhere in this range, different setups/tyres/weather/motor timing or esc settings etc would impact on what is run (also class requirements like 5 cell, 6 cell / lipo).
LRP 13.5 (original bonded rotor) - PRECC - 5.6-6.0
LRP 13.5 (as above) - Bayswater - 4.2-5.0 (havent run this myself yet)
LRP 3.5 - PRECC - 11.4-12
LRP 3.5 - Bayswater - 8.8-9.4
Speed Passion 3.5 - PRECC - 12-12.6
Speed Passion 3.5 - Bayswater - 10.2-10.9
There are more motors, but mainly stock 27 turn brushed which i havent raced for a while and cant remember what I used (think they were somewhere in the 9.2-9.8 range for PRECC).
Hope that helps for ballpark ratios!
(you'll definately get a better response in the WA Onroad thread)
-Mark
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
-Mark
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Take some droop out of the rear. Sounds like you're transitioning too much weight to the nose. I want to say I am running 5.5mm ride height with 1.5mm droop on all 4 corners on mine on carpet. You could also go from the blue rear springs to yellows. That may help but I'm more confident in the droop
I'm positive I have more than 1.5 mm droop. We were all focusing strictly on the downstop setting alone, and not the resulting droop amount after lowering the ride height to 5.5 mm.
I guess I need to realize that a particular downstop setting alone doesn't mean anything -- it's the resulting droop amount with a given downstop setting and ride height that is critical ?
Thx again.
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Tech Apprentice
The only mods I had to do where with the battery hold down bar (Standard plastic one) I had to dremel off the underside "cell bumps" only because I wanted the nice looking side up though and will only be using lipo's also I had to dremel out a little section so that the battery plug was able to be connected.
Hope this helps
Also guys, if you look at the far right pics of the car you can see the right front wheel has heaps more toe out than the left front. I have triple measured all the poxy turnbuckles and they are pretty close to being exactly the same (within a few .'s of a mm) What can I do to get rid of this? I have ordered the alloy steering assembly with bearings to replace the plastic one as it has heaps of play. Should I just adjust the turnbuckles to eye and forget about the measurements?
Hope this helps
Also guys, if you look at the far right pics of the car you can see the right front wheel has heaps more toe out than the left front. I have triple measured all the poxy turnbuckles and they are pretty close to being exactly the same (within a few .'s of a mm) What can I do to get rid of this? I have ordered the alloy steering assembly with bearings to replace the plastic one as it has heaps of play. Should I just adjust the turnbuckles to eye and forget about the measurements?
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
I'd be slappin some universals in that thing, I think the stock IFS kits still use dicky dog bones.... *ouch!*
As for tyres, I have been running Jaco Rubberz Blue and they seem to hook up ok. I'd look at a Mazda 6 shell as well, you'll find that the stock shell doesn't handle too well, and yes it makes a difference! I've been persisting lately with a Honda Accord shell and handling wise it's just been way off everyone else.
As for tyres, I have been running Jaco Rubberz Blue and they seem to hook up ok. I'd look at a Mazda 6 shell as well, you'll find that the stock shell doesn't handle too well, and yes it makes a difference! I've been persisting lately with a Honda Accord shell and handling wise it's just been way off everyone else.
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
The only mods I had to do where with the battery hold down bar (Standard plastic one) I had to dremel off the underside "cell bumps" only because I wanted the nice looking side up though and will only be using lipo's also I had to dremel out a little section so that the battery plug was able to be connected.
Hope this helps
Also guys, if you look at the far right pics of the car you can see the right front wheel has heaps more toe out than the left front. I have triple measured all the poxy turnbuckles and they are pretty close to being exactly the same (within a few .'s of a mm) What can I do to get rid of this? I have ordered the alloy steering assembly with bearings to replace the plastic one as it has heaps of play. Should I just adjust the turnbuckles to eye and forget about the measurements?
Hope this helps
Also guys, if you look at the far right pics of the car you can see the right front wheel has heaps more toe out than the left front. I have triple measured all the poxy turnbuckles and they are pretty close to being exactly the same (within a few .'s of a mm) What can I do to get rid of this? I have ordered the alloy steering assembly with bearings to replace the plastic one as it has heaps of play. Should I just adjust the turnbuckles to eye and forget about the measurements?
what is causing the wheels to turn to the right like that is the link from the servo to the steering rack.. adjust this shorter and it will turn the wheels to the left (which is what you need)
-Mark
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Also guys, if you look at the far right pics of the car you can see the right front wheel has heaps more toe out than the left front. I have triple measured all the poxy turnbuckles and they are pretty close to being exactly the same (within a few .'s of a mm) What can I do to get rid of this? I have ordered the alloy steering assembly with bearings to replace the plastic one as it has heaps of play. Should I just adjust the turnbuckles to eye and forget about the measurements?
at Tower for $65.
It's been a long time since I raced, but I just got back into the hobby and in my opinion, the best way to improve you driving is to make sure you have consistent setups.
Last edited by TwoTone; 12-02-2008 at 08:59 AM.
The only mods I had to do where with the battery hold down bar (Standard plastic one) I had to dremel off the underside "cell bumps" only because I wanted the nice looking side up though and will only be using lipo's also I had to dremel out a little section so that the battery plug was able to be connected.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
Tech Apprentice
you need to make sure that both steering links (turnbuckles) are the same, this will cause uneven steering left/right if they are different lengths.
what is causing the wheels to turn to the right like that is the link from the servo to the steering rack.. adjust this shorter and it will turn the wheels to the left (which is what you need)
-Mark
what is causing the wheels to turn to the right like that is the link from the servo to the steering rack.. adjust this shorter and it will turn the wheels to the left (which is what you need)
-Mark
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
I run a Kimbrough Servo Saver in mine, I find the standard Tamiya ones are pretty weak, even their "High Torque" servo savers don't seem to be much better.
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
nothing wrong with the tamiya high torque servo savers in my books..
not once have i had an issue with these, but just incase i have a spare and also a kimbrough one :P
not once have i had an issue with these, but just incase i have a spare and also a kimbrough one :P
Tech Apprentice
I'd be slappin some universals in that thing, I think the stock IFS kits still use dicky dog bones.... *ouch!*
As for tyres, I have been running Jaco Rubberz Blue and they seem to hook up ok. I'd look at a Mazda 6 shell as well, you'll find that the stock shell doesn't handle too well, and yes it makes a difference! I've been persisting lately with a Honda Accord shell and handling wise it's just been way off everyone else.
As for tyres, I have been running Jaco Rubberz Blue and they seem to hook up ok. I'd look at a Mazda 6 shell as well, you'll find that the stock shell doesn't handle too well, and yes it makes a difference! I've been persisting lately with a Honda Accord shell and handling wise it's just been way off everyone else.
I am suprised that it actually runs better without the shell lol. i'll get a mazda 6 next time home and some better tires.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
The generic universals have a fairly weak crossjoint, IMO better to get the Tamiya ones straight up, they are rebuildable (ie just replace the cross joints and relube)