68LikesTamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
06-13-2007, 05:28 PM
#7832
06-13-2007, 05:29 PM
#7833
You could literally run (yanno, with legs) faster than my TA05R, since I havent even bought electronics/body/etc for it yet 
However, I will make sure to direct all my noobie questions right at you, Hebiki, without looking for answers in the thread first
Seriously though, thanks for the warm responses, you will see me around here a lot as I build and run this kit.
However, I will make sure to direct all my noobie questions right at you, Hebiki, without looking for answers in the thread first
Seriously though, thanks for the warm responses, you will see me around here a lot as I build and run this kit.
06-13-2007, 10:25 PM
#7834
RE: REAR WHEELHOP!
Well I got my droop sorted out from last week so its not soo loose on entrance, but I went to the front one way since I all ready had a center one way. Car was great except I had motor issues and ended up in the B main this week. For the final I swapped motors and car was awesome except going through the turn I had some rear wheel hop. I thought I had a tire coming off the rim, but after the race they were all fine not even a mark on the rims. Was the insert I put in too soft or what would cause the rear to hop? It was even rained during our main so it was really slick and the rear still had the hop in the corner. Any help would be great. My time in the B main would have put me third in the A main so I figure the car is working pretty good!
06-13-2007, 11:33 PM
#7836
question
how do you adjust rear toe in/toe out for ta05r? or is it possible?
06-13-2007, 11:48 PM
#7837
hi all, does anyone have the 3 racing carbon conversion?
i want to know wat size screws it uses, are the different to the ones by tamiya? thanks
i want to know wat size screws it uses, are the different to the ones by tamiya? thanks
06-14-2007, 01:21 AM
#7839
Basically you change the suspension blocks. There is 1/2 degree difference between each block. Standard combo of 1A front and 1D rear gives 1.5degrees inboard, standard plastic rear hubs have 1 degree outboard, so that is 2.5degrees toe as standard.
06-14-2007, 02:30 AM
#7840
06-14-2007, 02:53 AM
#7841
Should be easy to get titanium/steel replacements I would have thought, but imho I wouldnt touch alloy at all, they snap too easily
06-14-2007, 03:40 AM
#7842
all my top deck are button head (bar one which connects to the upper steering plate) bottom deck countersunk, mixture of x head and torx,(I think they are T15 but dont quote me on that!) but I dont have the sizes to hand.
Should be easy to get titanium/steel replacements I would have thought, but imho I wouldnt touch alloy at all, they snap too easily
Should be easy to get titanium/steel replacements I would have thought, but imho I wouldnt touch alloy at all, they snap too easily
06-14-2007, 04:58 AM
#7843
Tbh, im really not sure why some are x head and some are torx, but theyre in there and are all ok, so if it isnt bust I wont be fixing it
If you found the right sizes (none of them are an odd size from memory) im sure you could get them all in torx or whatever you wanted
You wont go wrong with the 3racing chassis, it really tightens the car up from the standard chassis, and it looks pretty nice too!
06-14-2007, 06:41 AM
#7844
Has anyone tried a spool up front, with a centre 1 way? Just wondering what the handling would be like 
Im guessing the car would dive pretty damn deep into corners. I am getting used to the centre one way nicely now though 
Im guessing the car would dive pretty damn deep into corners. I am getting used to the centre one way nicely now though
06-14-2007, 08:31 AM
#7845
Anyone run a Novak cyclone TC2 in their TA05R? I saw some posts way back in the thread about some ESC's not fitting...