Chaz955i

iTrader: (5)

Yes, kit setup is very easy to drive. Using Protoform LTC-R for a body.

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Personally, I drifted quite a ways away from the kit setup. Box stock was drivable, but not fast for my driving style at my track. If you're looking for a body, I'd say speed6 is the best body to start off with on carpet (assuming that's what you're running on at this time of the year).

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

Take the bar off the back and put in on a flat surface to make sure the bar isn't twisted. Measure both links to make sure they are the same length. Back the setscrews off a bit so the bar drops freely. Tighten one screw at a time slowly until the bar starts to bind and then back off until the bar is free again.....do the same to the other side. Make sure the links pivot freely on the arms and that when tighten the collars on the end of the bar that they are spaced evenly on the end of the wire left and right.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

I had this problem as well. First, double check your stabilizer mounts which connect to the arm are the exact same length. Mine were, but it turned out my rear stabilizer bar was not flat, just a little bit but it made a huge difference. See picture.



I fixed it two ways.
1) hang the right side over the edge of the board holding the bar the way I'm showing, and push down then let it recover and see if it's still not flat. I had to push down until the bar was nearly at a 90 degree angle and it took a couple tries to get it flat, as this material is made to bend but recover back to where it was.
2) I then lengthened one of the stabilizer mounts a twist or two, until the arms lifted equally.

Hope that helps, or more specifically, I hope that's the problem you are having as well.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

lol, beat me too it.

aussierevo

iTrader: (14)

guy's, thanks for the thoughts, I will give these suggestions a try.

thanks again.

Adam B

The body to run depends on the track layout and grip. Honestly, I agree the Speed 6 body is probably the best to start with as it has more of a neutral feel, where the P37 and LTCR will give you more front bite it seems.

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Adjust the symmetry of the swaybar action via the links that connect to the arm. You can lengthen or shorten the links until you get symmetry. Also, for fine-tuning, you can slide the swaybar through the aluminum ball that connects to the links. It's important that the swaybar dynamics side-to-side are the same, the links are what they are to achieve this symmetry.

To check swaybar symetry I put my car on blocks, then, with tires off, I carefully prop one of the stub axle shafts onto a 12th scale rear wheel (or whatever is handy to give a consistent placement) and measure the corresponding uptravel of the other side. I then do this to the other side, compare the measurements, and adjust as necessary.

aussierevo

iTrader: (14)

I've given it another try. The sway bar was bent just as much as in the pictures posted earlier. I've given it a 'tweak' and it seems to have done the trick. I might need to invest in a new one just to be sure.

thanks for all the help.

haywood

iTrader: (49)

Sam,
Could you post some of your changes you made to the kit setup? Thanks

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

So whatcha gonna do with your old Xray?

rescue119

iTrader: (1)

finally built but still waiting for my new esc



and my first paint job in 3 years and only my 3rd one every ....

nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

something Paul lemuiex told me when I was in cleveland at the holloween classic in 2011 was the collar on the sway bar can act as a cam for getting a slight out of flat sway bar back to flat. set screw up to set screw down makes a difference and is finer to get the correct side to side "feel" out of a sway bar then taking a round of the the ball ends.

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

I uploaded a setup sheet if interested. Car is better than I am

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...ID=74&setup=t4

Nathan Wilson

what make pinions is everyone running? 48dp or 64dp? and what are your reasons?

Thanks