Yokomo MR4TC-BD
10-24-2009, 02:19 PM
#8941
some pics of my HB front and rear conversion. complete (besides arms, obviously). I am also going to experiment using the HB complete axle system, with the speedtech steel front spool, to see how it holds up. (we all know how rare the yokomo cvd/axles/uni's are now a days). Along with some 'drift' aluminum CGM arms that i just cut down to fit and replace my carbon cgm arms.
really excited about these upgrades:
rear complete:
closeup to show how i ground down the HB bones to slide into the yokomo outdrives.
ZEe
really excited about these upgrades:
rear complete:
closeup to show how i ground down the HB bones to slide into the yokomo outdrives.
ZEe
10-24-2009, 03:28 PM
#8943
looks cool but would like a standard yok setup if poss
10-24-2009, 05:14 PM
#8944
Yeah, I don't understand why you are changing everything over? Nothing wrong with stock setup as long as you can get parts. You are on your own with this one hehe.
10-24-2009, 09:22 PM
#8945
ZEe_NYC,
This was used a while ago on the BD. It is way back in the thread, gives more steering. I also believe Martin Hofer used them early on as well. For myself I just use the HPI 4 degree c hubs, cgm steering linkage and o inline steering knuckles as per Chris Grainer used to run. Gives more steering. I use a TIR spool, which is very light and the standard steel FH 010 front universals.
I'm sure you can still get the parts. I still use my BD's for 17.5 with different motors and setup. I am still very happy with the car. It is normally the mong behind the whel who stuffs things up.
JimmyMac,
Thanks for the help. I'm sourcing a Duo 2 to try with the ORCA speedie. Car is plenty fast with the Hacker, but the new motor might be quicker, with a different FDR.
Regards,
Calvin.
This was used a while ago on the BD. It is way back in the thread, gives more steering. I also believe Martin Hofer used them early on as well. For myself I just use the HPI 4 degree c hubs, cgm steering linkage and o inline steering knuckles as per Chris Grainer used to run. Gives more steering. I use a TIR spool, which is very light and the standard steel FH 010 front universals.
I'm sure you can still get the parts. I still use my BD's for 17.5 with different motors and setup. I am still very happy with the car. It is normally the mong behind the whel who stuffs things up.
JimmyMac,
Thanks for the help. I'm sourcing a Duo 2 to try with the ORCA speedie. Car is plenty fast with the Hacker, but the new motor might be quicker, with a different FDR.
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 10-24-2009 at 09:24 PM. Reason: spelling
10-25-2009, 09:06 AM
#8946
Jimmy, I had the itch to change parts (and all I had as spares were the zc 5 degree carriers). Lol. I think I'm gonna make 2-3 complete front ends to test out, to see which one works best at my track (which isn't open yet, btw).
Any combo of:
front arms: sdw, soft, graphite
hubs/carriers: HB, HB/yokomo, yokomo
and HB, yeah racing and yokomo uni's/cvd's
The front sdw arms are $14 a set! And I need two sets =/
@Cal, I remember seeing hofer do this upgrad A while back; and since he runs rubber/carpet alot, I figured it can't be a bad setup to start with (plus these parts were already in my posession). Glad to see that youre still running the BD. It seemed that once the 5 came out, everyone deserted their old bd's lol. I'll be running 13.5 rubber/carpet
any ID on that rear tower??
Any combo of:
front arms: sdw, soft, graphite
hubs/carriers: HB, HB/yokomo, yokomo
and HB, yeah racing and yokomo uni's/cvd's
The front sdw arms are $14 a set! And I need two sets =/
@Cal, I remember seeing hofer do this upgrad A while back; and since he runs rubber/carpet alot, I figured it can't be a bad setup to start with (plus these parts were already in my posession). Glad to see that youre still running the BD. It seemed that once the 5 came out, everyone deserted their old bd's lol. I'll be running 13.5 rubber/carpet
any ID on that rear tower??
10-25-2009, 09:23 AM
#8947
Jimmy, I had the itch to change parts (and all I had as spares were the zc 5 degree carriers). Lol. I think I'm gonna make 2-3 complete front ends to test out, to see which one works best at my track (which isn't open yet, btw).
Any combo of:
front arms: sdw, soft, graphite
hubs/carriers: HB, HB/yokomo, yokomo
and HB, yeah racing and yokomo uni's/cvd's
The front sdw arms are $14 a set! And I need two sets =/
@Cal, I remember seeing hofer do this upgrad A while back; and since he runs rubber/carpet alot, I figured it can't be a bad setup to start with (plus these parts were already in my posession). Glad to see that youre still running the BD. It seemed that once the 5 came out, everyone deserted their old bd's lol. I'll be running 13.5 rubber/carpet
any ID on that rear tower??
Any combo of:
front arms: sdw, soft, graphite
hubs/carriers: HB, HB/yokomo, yokomo
and HB, yeah racing and yokomo uni's/cvd's
The front sdw arms are $14 a set! And I need two sets =/
@Cal, I remember seeing hofer do this upgrad A while back; and since he runs rubber/carpet alot, I figured it can't be a bad setup to start with (plus these parts were already in my posession). Glad to see that youre still running the BD. It seemed that once the 5 came out, everyone deserted their old bd's lol. I'll be running 13.5 rubber/carpet
any ID on that rear tower??
Also i tested out the HB MIP CVD's and they fit into Yokomo outdrives (very fine filing of outdrive required) You could get the black ones to match better.
Also if your using HB axles you could use the Surikarn (blue) aluminum bone 44mm.
10-25-2009, 09:56 AM
#8948
I have tested quite a lot and the best combination in the end used by me and chris grainger was HB C-hub with Yokomo non-trailing steering knuckle, masami steering mod and standard hard rear hub with 2mm on the rearhub and a regular ballstud
that's what I've used almost exclusively in the end
sdw front arms are pointless with the bdm, just use regular graphite suspension .. that's best
as for the rear shocktower, it's a bdm shocktower made out of the redish carbon fibre which you could also see on kit's distributed europewide by GM
that's what I've used almost exclusively in the end
sdw front arms are pointless with the bdm, just use regular graphite suspension .. that's best
as for the rear shocktower, it's a bdm shocktower made out of the redish carbon fibre which you could also see on kit's distributed europewide by GM
10-25-2009, 11:34 AM
#8949
Thank You, Martin... as always, you are an amateur yokomo drivers' biggest fan. i appreciate it. i'll definitely stick to what you said.
i remember seeing one of your old setup sheets, and i noticed that you were running HB rear carriers at one point, as well. that why i figured i should just change the rear while i have the parts.
i'm going to stick to the graphite front arms. i also priced a set of TC4 front hexs, and they are cheaper than buying two sets of arms (for the purpose of narrowing the front for more steering); if i ever want some more steering.
i remember seeing one of your old setup sheets, and i noticed that you were running HB rear carriers at one point, as well. that why i figured i should just change the rear while i have the parts.
i'm going to stick to the graphite front arms. i also priced a set of TC4 front hexs, and they are cheaper than buying two sets of arms (for the purpose of narrowing the front for more steering); if i ever want some more steering.
10-25-2009, 03:10 PM
#8950
we used teh hb rear hubs at some point for 3 reasons:
the camberlink got higher (well you could do that with shims)
the rearend got narrower (more steering!!!, which you can do with narrow hexes and 0.5mm shims, overall 5.0mm width)
and the rear camberlink got shorter which gave little more reaction
but as I said in the end we used yokomo rearhubs
the camberlink got higher (well you could do that with shims)
the rearend got narrower (more steering!!!, which you can do with narrow hexes and 0.5mm shims, overall 5.0mm width)
and the rear camberlink got shorter which gave little more reaction
but as I said in the end we used yokomo rearhubs
10-26-2009, 02:13 AM
#8952
a narrower rearend generates more steering
that's the reason why modern cars like tamiya or bd5 are wider up front than in the rear
note that it'S a difference if you narrowen it inboard or on the hexes
sdw was a different car at a different time
the short arms where used up front by that time to compensate the lack of steering angle
but today we can cure that and thus don't need that
that's the reason why modern cars like tamiya or bd5 are wider up front than in the rear
note that it'S a difference if you narrowen it inboard or on the hexes
sdw was a different car at a different time
the short arms where used up front by that time to compensate the lack of steering angle
but today we can cure that and thus don't need that
10-26-2009, 05:46 AM
#8953
a narrower rearend generates more steering
that's the reason why modern cars like tamiya or bd5 are wider up front than in the rear
note that it'S a difference if you narrowen it inboard or on the hexes
sdw was a different car at a different time
the short arms where used up front by that time to compensate the lack of steering angle
but today we can cure that and thus don't need that
that's the reason why modern cars like tamiya or bd5 are wider up front than in the rear
note that it'S a difference if you narrowen it inboard or on the hexes
sdw was a different car at a different time
the short arms where used up front by that time to compensate the lack of steering angle
but today we can cure that and thus don't need that
by narrowing the front you provide more aggresive steering.
10-26-2009, 06:26 AM
#8954
À 416 definately is wider but ok ...
10-26-2009, 07:16 AM
#8955
It does make sense.
Think of it in an extreme case. Imagine decresing the rear width to, let's say, 100mm. The wider front stance will generate higher grip and let's the rear roll out more.
The sdw arms, like Martin said, probably only worked for a certain case.
I'm sure all the trial and error & testing that the Yokomo Team did wasn't in vain. They knew the cars better than anyone.
Think of it in an extreme case. Imagine decresing the rear width to, let's say, 100mm. The wider front stance will generate higher grip and let's the rear roll out more.
The sdw arms, like Martin said, probably only worked for a certain case.
I'm sure all the trial and error & testing that the Yokomo Team did wasn't in vain. They knew the cars better than anyone.