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Old 10-24-2009, 03:19 PM   #8941
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some pics of my HB front and rear conversion. complete (besides arms, obviously). I am also going to experiment using the HB complete axle system, with the speedtech steel front spool, to see how it holds up. (we all know how rare the yokomo cvd/axles/uni's are now a days). Along with some 'drift' aluminum CGM arms that i just cut down to fit and replace my carbon cgm arms.

really excited about these upgrades:



rear complete:


closeup to show how i ground down the HB bones to slide into the yokomo outdrives.


ZEe
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Old 10-24-2009, 03:21 PM   #8942
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BTW... can anyone identify that rear tower? it's red carbon.

i put a masami rear tower against it, and it was dead even (or so it seemed to me). But my spare masami (NIP btw) is regular cgrey/black carbon weave.
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Old 10-24-2009, 04:28 PM   #8943
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looks cool but would like a standard yok setup if poss
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Old 10-24-2009, 06:14 PM   #8944
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Yeah, I don't understand why you are changing everything over? Nothing wrong with stock setup as long as you can get parts. You are on your own with this one hehe.
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:22 PM   #8945
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ZEe_NYC,

This was used a while ago on the BD. It is way back in the thread, gives more steering. I also believe Martin Hofer used them early on as well. For myself I just use the HPI 4 degree c hubs, cgm steering linkage and o inline steering knuckles as per Chris Grainer used to run. Gives more steering. I use a TIR spool, which is very light and the standard steel FH 010 front universals.

I'm sure you can still get the parts. I still use my BD's for 17.5 with different motors and setup. I am still very happy with the car. It is normally the mong behind the whel who stuffs things up.

JimmyMac,

Thanks for the help. I'm sourcing a Duo 2 to try with the ORCA speedie. Car is plenty fast with the Hacker, but the new motor might be quicker, with a different FDR.

Regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 10-24-2009 at 10:24 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:06 AM   #8946
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Jimmy, I had the itch to change parts (and all I had as spares were the zc 5 degree carriers). Lol. I think I'm gonna make 2-3 complete front ends to test out, to see which one works best at my track (which isn't open yet, btw).

Any combo of:
front arms: sdw, soft, graphite
hubs/carriers: HB, HB/yokomo, yokomo
and HB, yeah racing and yokomo uni's/cvd's

The front sdw arms are $14 a set! And I need two sets =/


@Cal, I remember seeing hofer do this upgrad A while back; and since he runs rubber/carpet alot, I figured it can't be a bad setup to start with (plus these parts were already in my posession). Glad to see that youre still running the BD. It seemed that once the 5 came out, everyone deserted their old bd's lol. I'll be running 13.5 rubber/carpet

any ID on that rear tower??
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:23 AM   #8947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEe_NYC View Post
Jimmy, I had the itch to change parts (and all I had as spares were the zc 5 degree carriers). Lol. I think I'm gonna make 2-3 complete front ends to test out, to see which one works best at my track (which isn't open yet, btw).

Any combo of:
front arms: sdw, soft, graphite
hubs/carriers: HB, HB/yokomo, yokomo
and HB, yeah racing and yokomo uni's/cvd's

The front sdw arms are $14 a set! And I need two sets =/


@Cal, I remember seeing hofer do this upgrad A while back; and since he runs rubber/carpet alot, I figured it can't be a bad setup to start with (plus these parts were already in my posession). Glad to see that youre still running the BD. It seemed that once the 5 came out, everyone deserted their old bd's lol. I'll be running 13.5 rubber/carpet

any ID on that rear tower??
there is a guy on ebay selling NIP SDW arms for $10/pair so for $20 you could do an SDW front arm setup.

Also i tested out the HB MIP CVD's and they fit into Yokomo outdrives (very fine filing of outdrive required) You could get the black ones to match better.
Also if your using HB axles you could use the Surikarn (blue) aluminum bone 44mm.
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:56 AM   #8948
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I have tested quite a lot and the best combination in the end used by me and chris grainger was HB C-hub with Yokomo non-trailing steering knuckle, masami steering mod and standard hard rear hub with 2mm on the rearhub and a regular ballstud

that's what I've used almost exclusively in the end

sdw front arms are pointless with the bdm, just use regular graphite suspension .. that's best

as for the rear shocktower, it's a bdm shocktower made out of the redish carbon fibre which you could also see on kit's distributed europewide by GM
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Old 10-25-2009, 12:34 PM   #8949
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Thank You, Martin... as always, you are an amateur yokomo drivers' biggest fan. i appreciate it. i'll definitely stick to what you said.

i remember seeing one of your old setup sheets, and i noticed that you were running HB rear carriers at one point, as well. that why i figured i should just change the rear while i have the parts.

i'm going to stick to the graphite front arms. i also priced a set of TC4 front hexs, and they are cheaper than buying two sets of arms (for the purpose of narrowing the front for more steering); if i ever want some more steering.
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Old 10-25-2009, 04:10 PM   #8950
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we used teh hb rear hubs at some point for 3 reasons:

the camberlink got higher (well you could do that with shims)
the rearend got narrower (more steering!!!, which you can do with narrow hexes and 0.5mm shims, overall 5.0mm width)
and the rear camberlink got shorter which gave little more reaction

but as I said in the end we used yokomo rearhubs
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Old 10-25-2009, 11:06 PM   #8951
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narrow rear makes more steering? i always thought a narrower front made the car more responsive to steering input? Isn't that the purpose of using the sdw arms in the front? (or was masami using the sdw arms in the rear in all those pics?)
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:13 AM   #8952
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a narrower rearend generates more steering

that's the reason why modern cars like tamiya or bd5 are wider up front than in the rear

note that it'S a difference if you narrowen it inboard or on the hexes

sdw was a different car at a different time
the short arms where used up front by that time to compensate the lack of steering angle
but today we can cure that and thus don't need that
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Old 10-26-2009, 06:46 AM   #8953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
a narrower rearend generates more steering

that's the reason why modern cars like tamiya or bd5 are wider up front than in the rear

note that it'S a difference if you narrowen it inboard or on the hexes

sdw was a different car at a different time
the short arms where used up front by that time to compensate the lack of steering angle
but today we can cure that and thus don't need that
my tamiya is NOT wider in the front than in the rear. It is suggested
by narrowing the front you provide more aggresive steering.
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:26 AM   #8954
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416 definately is wider but ok ...
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:16 AM   #8955
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It does make sense.

Think of it in an extreme case. Imagine decresing the rear width to, let's say, 100mm. The wider front stance will generate higher grip and let's the rear roll out more.

The sdw arms, like Martin said, probably only worked for a certain case.

I'm sure all the trial and error & testing that the Yokomo Team did wasn't in vain. They knew the cars better than anyone.
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