Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#6182
Tech Elite
the short arms are for the extra wide show/drift rims. keeps the wheels under the body.
#6183
Originally Posted by pcar951
Anybody know what the short arm conversion is for the BD. What's the purpose? Better for asphalt or carpet? Part numbers?
Try this link http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=419&id=4667 Thay are 1 front and 1 rear so u will need 2 get 2 packs! if u look close at that pic u will c that thay are drilled diffrent 2 make them shorter.
Hope this helps.
ste.
#6184
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Thanks for the info again guys!
I'm kind of new to Yokomo and although my LCG carpet experiment was an abject failure (I was warned), I'm finding the BD to be a great and probably under-rated car. I ran our weekly club race (carpet-foam) last night with my new BD and finished 4th in the A, the rest of the field were all Xrays. Not bad at all for it's first time out!
Although I love my Xrays, I get a little tired of just being one of the flock. It seems to me that every car has a "sweet spot" set up that only needs to be deviated from slightly, from track to track to be competitive. I'm looking forward to finding out what the BD needs to be top of the heep!
Once again...thanks for the help.
I'm kind of new to Yokomo and although my LCG carpet experiment was an abject failure (I was warned), I'm finding the BD to be a great and probably under-rated car. I ran our weekly club race (carpet-foam) last night with my new BD and finished 4th in the A, the rest of the field were all Xrays. Not bad at all for it's first time out!
Although I love my Xrays, I get a little tired of just being one of the flock. It seems to me that every car has a "sweet spot" set up that only needs to be deviated from slightly, from track to track to be competitive. I'm looking forward to finding out what the BD needs to be top of the heep!
Once again...thanks for the help.
Last edited by pcar951; 10-29-2006 at 07:46 AM.
#6185
Tech Elite
oops my bad, thought you meant the rear arms, my bad.
#6186
hey guys! i have a LCG that i race but i keep haveing the small problem of snapping the diff bolt! i was wondering if any one knows where i can get a harder bolt one that might not snap so easy! thanks
#6187
Tech Elite
i used to snap diff screws also, just back it off about another 1/4 turn it should stop breaking.
anyone try the .5 - 1 degree rear uprights. i put a couple of .5's on and with the 2.0 block gives 3 degrees on each side, is there a different feel with the toe on the outside of the arm vs the inside.???
anyone try the .5 - 1 degree rear uprights. i put a couple of .5's on and with the 2.0 block gives 3 degrees on each side, is there a different feel with the toe on the outside of the arm vs the inside.???
#6188
I suppose it will be slightly different because when the the arm pivots it will be pivoting in a slightly different direction... But i could not tell you what change it would make
Also when you change the toe in through the inner block it shortens the wheel base... so i would take a guess at saying if you use toe in on the inner block it would make the car more "nimble" but less stable. but if you use the outer blocks it will be easier to drive.
This can be change by the spacers on the hinge pin anyway so i guess it just gives you a finer adjustment maybe?
Also when you change the toe in through the inner block it shortens the wheel base... so i would take a guess at saying if you use toe in on the inner block it would make the car more "nimble" but less stable. but if you use the outer blocks it will be easier to drive.
This can be change by the spacers on the hinge pin anyway so i guess it just gives you a finer adjustment maybe?
#6190
Tech Elite
i never thought about it narrowing the car, gotta get me one of those setup board sheets and find out, like i said before with the 2.0 block and .5 hubs it has 3 degrees on each side. with the 1 degree hubs it must be 3.5 for 4 degrees. i may try it later, this weekend is our regional and don't want to change the car yet.
#6191
How about adding 2' and 0.5'. I think you'll find it makes 2.5' each side not 3'. very simple maths I know this cos grainger edition runs 2.5' block with .5' hubs = 3'
#6192
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
front toe in SD-300F05 won`t fit on front end
F-0 std has the pin holes all the way through block
05 block can`t slide allway in to line up with the chassis holes as the pin holes are not all the way through
have i got to drill block to make fit
if yes ,then that is Bol*&cks
F-0 std has the pin holes all the way through block
05 block can`t slide allway in to line up with the chassis holes as the pin holes are not all the way through
have i got to drill block to make fit
if yes ,then that is Bol*&cks
#6193
Tech Adept
Jolly
That's cos it goes at the back and replaces the split mounts.
No wonder you run stock.
Stu
That's cos it goes at the back and replaces the split mounts.
No wonder you run stock.
Stu
#6194
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
front toe in SD-300F05 won`t fit on front end
F-0 std has the pin holes all the way through block
05 block can`t slide allway in to line up with the chassis holes as the pin holes are not all the way through
have i got to drill block to make fit
if yes ,then that is Bol*&cks
F-0 std has the pin holes all the way through block
05 block can`t slide allway in to line up with the chassis holes as the pin holes are not all the way through
have i got to drill block to make fit
if yes ,then that is Bol*&cks
#6195
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
Originally Posted by StuartC
Jolly
That's cos it goes at the back and replaces the split mounts.
No wonder you run stock.
Stu
That's cos it goes at the back and replaces the split mounts.
No wonder you run stock.
Stu
stock
nope i`m moving up to 19t now ,kind of like it really
cheers Big Ears