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Old 10-28-2006, 12:34 AM   #6181
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Default short arms??

Anybody know what the short arm conversion is for the BD. What's the purpose? Better for asphalt or carpet? Part numbers?
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Old 10-28-2006, 11:34 AM   #6182
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the short arms are for the extra wide show/drift rims. keeps the wheels under the body.
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Old 10-28-2006, 04:13 PM   #6183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcar951
Anybody know what the short arm conversion is for the BD. What's the purpose? Better for asphalt or carpet? Part numbers?
Hi. The shorter SDW arms give the car more front end turn in. The best choice in all conditions asphalt or carpet 'in my view' Thay are the same as standard kit arm's but thay have been modified, thay are drilled in a way so when u mount the arm thay are shorter. Also u need 2 remove some of the plastic off them so that thay dont rub on the bulk heads, sounds funny but u will understand when u get some!
Try this link http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=419&id=4667 Thay are 1 front and 1 rear so u will need 2 get 2 packs! if u look close at that pic u will c that thay are drilled diffrent 2 make them shorter.

Hope this helps.
ste.
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Old 10-28-2006, 11:40 PM   #6184
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Thanks for the info again guys!

I'm kind of new to Yokomo and although my LCG carpet experiment was an abject failure (I was warned), I'm finding the BD to be a great and probably under-rated car. I ran our weekly club race (carpet-foam) last night with my new BD and finished 4th in the A, the rest of the field were all Xrays. Not bad at all for it's first time out!

Although I love my Xrays, I get a little tired of just being one of the flock. It seems to me that every car has a "sweet spot" set up that only needs to be deviated from slightly, from track to track to be competitive. I'm looking forward to finding out what the BD needs to be top of the heep!

Once again...thanks for the help.
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Last edited by pcar951; 10-29-2006 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 10-29-2006, 12:15 AM   #6185
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oops my bad, thought you meant the rear arms, my bad.
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:20 AM   #6186
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hey guys! i have a LCG that i race but i keep haveing the small problem of snapping the diff bolt! i was wondering if any one knows where i can get a harder bolt one that might not snap so easy! thanks
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Old 10-30-2006, 04:20 PM   #6187
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i used to snap diff screws also, just back it off about another 1/4 turn it should stop breaking.


anyone try the .5 - 1 degree rear uprights. i put a couple of .5's on and with the 2.0 block gives 3 degrees on each side, is there a different feel with the toe on the outside of the arm vs the inside.???
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Old 10-30-2006, 06:16 PM   #6188
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I suppose it will be slightly different because when the the arm pivots it will be pivoting in a slightly different direction... But i could not tell you what change it would make

Also when you change the toe in through the inner block it shortens the wheel base... so i would take a guess at saying if you use toe in on the inner block it would make the car more "nimble" but less stable. but if you use the outer blocks it will be easier to drive.

This can be change by the spacers on the hinge pin anyway so i guess it just gives you a finer adjustment maybe?
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:14 PM   #6189
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i wonder if changing to a 1degree toe hubs with 2 degree block would make a narrower rear compared to 0 degree hub with 3 degree block?

ive been told it does feel different by a friend.
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:40 PM   #6190
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i never thought about it narrowing the car, gotta get me one of those setup board sheets and find out, like i said before with the 2.0 block and .5 hubs it has 3 degrees on each side. with the 1 degree hubs it must be 3.5 for 4 degrees. i may try it later, this weekend is our regional and don't want to change the car yet.
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Old 10-31-2006, 01:37 AM   #6191
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How about adding 2' and 0.5'. I think you'll find it makes 2.5' each side not 3'. very simple maths I know this cos grainger edition runs 2.5' block with .5' hubs = 3'
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Old 10-31-2006, 01:49 AM   #6192
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front toe in SD-300F05 won`t fit on front end
F-0 std has the pin holes all the way through block
05 block can`t slide allway in to line up with the chassis holes as the pin holes are not all the way through

have i got to drill block to make fit
if yes ,then that is Bol*&cks
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Old 10-31-2006, 02:35 AM   #6193
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Jolly

That's cos it goes at the back and replaces the split mounts.

No wonder you run stock.

Stu
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Old 10-31-2006, 02:37 AM   #6194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
front toe in SD-300F05 won`t fit on front end
F-0 std has the pin holes all the way through block
05 block can`t slide allway in to line up with the chassis holes as the pin holes are not all the way through

have i got to drill block to make fit
if yes ,then that is Bol*&cks
Pillock - as Stu says goes behind bulkhead
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:30 AM   #6195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuartC
Jolly

That's cos it goes at the back and replaces the split mounts.

No wonder you run stock.

Stu
i` am old
stock
nope i`m moving up to 19t now ,kind of like it really

cheers Big Ears
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