Hot Bodies Cyclone
11-14-2008, 05:46 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
What works well for me is to run all the droop screws down 1 full turn, that will eliminate the springs and sway bars when moving weight around. I also use 2 scales (a small bubble level helps) and one balance pin making it a 3 point operation first. That will allow you to do the back and front separately first. With the sway bars unhooked bring the droop screws back up 1 turn. Do the springs and then hook the sway bar up and set that. (4 Set up wheels makes it more accurate
) then use all 4 scales to finish up and check tweak, I can do mine in 10 min. this way. I hope that helps
11-14-2008, 05:55 AM
Tech Fanatic
Thread Starter
11-14-2008, 06:32 AM
Lightfoot and all
What works well for me is to run all the droop screws down 1 full turn, that will eliminate the springs and sway bars when moving weight around. I also use 2 scales (a small bubble level helps) and one balance pin making it a 3 point operation first. That will allow you to do the back and front separately first. With the sway bars unhooked bring the droop screws back up 1 turn. Do the springs and then hook the sway bar up and set that. (4 Set up wheels makes it more accurate) then use all 4 scales to finish up and check tweak, I can do mine in 10 min. this way.
I hope that helps
What works well for me is to run all the droop screws down 1 full turn, that will eliminate the springs and sway bars when moving weight around. I also use 2 scales (a small bubble level helps) and one balance pin making it a 3 point operation first. That will allow you to do the back and front separately first. With the sway bars unhooked bring the droop screws back up 1 turn. Do the springs and then hook the sway bar up and set that. (4 Set up wheels makes it more accurate
) then use all 4 scales to finish up and check tweak, I can do mine in 10 min. this way. I hope that helps
Should i put the shocks on ?
OR the sway bars ?
11-14-2008, 06:42 AM
cyclone speed
you are overcomplexifying this big time.
build your car as per instructions. check symmetry on droop gauges. lift the front wheels, adjust with the rear shocks, do it for the rear too and you're set.
The rest, ie the way the "real" weight is distributed on the chassis, cannot be changed unless you add lead in strategic places. Front and rear weight remains constant, left and right remains constant, if the right side is light it will always be but in terms of handling at the first order you can always compensate a lot of it with the shock preloads
Re your rear leaking shocks, if it leaks from the top the membrane is shot.
Paul
Paul
you are overcomplexifying this big time.
build your car as per instructions. check symmetry on droop gauges. lift the front wheels, adjust with the rear shocks, do it for the rear too and you're set.
The rest, ie the way the "real" weight is distributed on the chassis, cannot be changed unless you add lead in strategic places. Front and rear weight remains constant, left and right remains constant, if the right side is light it will always be but in terms of handling at the first order you can always compensate a lot of it with the shock preloads
Re your rear leaking shocks, if it leaks from the top the membrane is shot.
Paul
Paul
11-14-2008, 06:49 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
A de-tweaked car will be level, front tires will have the same weight on both sides, back tires will have the same weight on both sides.
11-14-2008, 07:23 AM
11-14-2008, 07:26 AM
Hi,
this is the major difference between the TC and the older Cyclones. It works well with Rubber tires on asphalt. Most drivers here in Germany don't like it on the smaller indoor tracks on carpet (again rubber tires).
We changed the wheelbase on the front with the TC arms. Build the front as short as possible and it drives like the older arms.
mfg Martin
this is the major difference between the TC and the older Cyclones. It works well with Rubber tires on asphalt. Most drivers here in Germany don't like it on the smaller indoor tracks on carpet (again rubber tires).
We changed the wheelbase on the front with the TC arms. Build the front as short as possible and it drives like the older arms.
mfg Martin
Are you shimming the arm all the way back to get to the short wheelbase ?
On small carpet tracks where do you find the best shock mount to be on the new arms ? (front and rear)
Thanks.
11-14-2008, 07:27 AM
tweak
so lazerguy should the numbers be the same front to back or just side to side right now they are the same side to side but not front to back
11-14-2008, 07:43 AM
cyclone speed
you are overcomplexifying this big time.
build your car as per instructions. check symmetry on droop gauges. lift the front wheels, adjust with the rear shocks, do it for the rear too and you're set.
The rest, ie the way the "real" weight is distributed on the chassis, cannot be changed unless you add lead in strategic places. Front and rear weight remains constant, left and right remains constant, if the right side is light it will always be but in terms of handling at the first order you can always compensate a lot of it with the shock preloads
Re your rear leaking shocks, if it leaks from the top the membrane is shot.
Paul
Paul
you are overcomplexifying this big time.
build your car as per instructions. check symmetry on droop gauges. lift the front wheels, adjust with the rear shocks, do it for the rear too and you're set.
The rest, ie the way the "real" weight is distributed on the chassis, cannot be changed unless you add lead in strategic places. Front and rear weight remains constant, left and right remains constant, if the right side is light it will always be but in terms of handling at the first order you can always compensate a lot of it with the shock preloads
Re your rear leaking shocks, if it leaks from the top the membrane is shot.
Paul
Paul
What is the membrane ?
11-14-2008, 08:01 AM
I am soooooooo glad I read your comment... I just purchased 4 scales and was having a hell of a time trying to figure out how to move my weight around the chassis... I found myself spending 30 + min screwing with the shock preload and I gave up... I didn't know what the hell I was doing Now I will attack the problem again like you suggested ( shocks detached ) , move my weights around then de-tweak on my Hudy board... If anyone has any suggestions or tips on de-tweaking with scales I would love to know... Thanks...
Now I will attack the problem again like you suggested ( shocks detached ) , move my weights around then de-tweak on my Hudy board... If anyone has any suggestions or tips on de-tweaking with scales I would love to know... Thanks...Thanks,
11-14-2008, 09:13 AM
Honestly, I never use scales to detweak my car. I weigh each individual electronic component I put in the car though, and add weight accordingly to balance those things out.
But to actually un tweak the suspension, I take the shocks off and loosen all the bulkhead screws and upper deck screws to let eveyrthing relax. Then I plop my car on my new PPD Billet Tweak plate as it bolts the chassis to a flat peice of aluminum. After the car is bolted down I tighten all the screws back up again. You can accomplish the same thing by pressing down on the chassis when the upper deck screws are loose, but I think the PPD billet plate is a very easy, and effective way to untweak the chassis (as long as there are no bent parts).
Then I will measure the shocks, and make sure they are the same left to right. Then I will measure rebound and make sure they are the same left to right. Then I put the shocks aside and make sure the arms have the same amount of downtravel left to right. At that point I'klll put the shocks back on, and put everything in my car except the body to set ride height and do some final tweaks on the preload to make sure everything sits right. I always use the tip on an xacto knife to lift up the chassis from the bottom along the centerline to make sure the left and right tires lift up at the same time. Then I do the front the same way.
But to actually un tweak the suspension, I take the shocks off and loosen all the bulkhead screws and upper deck screws to let eveyrthing relax. Then I plop my car on my new PPD Billet Tweak plate as it bolts the chassis to a flat peice of aluminum. After the car is bolted down I tighten all the screws back up again. You can accomplish the same thing by pressing down on the chassis when the upper deck screws are loose, but I think the PPD billet plate is a very easy, and effective way to untweak the chassis (as long as there are no bent parts).
Then I will measure the shocks, and make sure they are the same left to right. Then I will measure rebound and make sure they are the same left to right. Then I put the shocks aside and make sure the arms have the same amount of downtravel left to right. At that point I'klll put the shocks back on, and put everything in my car except the body to set ride height and do some final tweaks on the preload to make sure everything sits right. I always use the tip on an xacto knife to lift up the chassis from the bottom along the centerline to make sure the left and right tires lift up at the same time. Then I do the front the same way.
11-14-2008, 09:21 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
11-14-2008, 09:42 AM
11-14-2008, 10:11 AM
Honestly, I never use scales to detweak my car. I weigh each individual electronic component I put in the car though, and add weight accordingly to balance those things out.
But to actually un tweak the suspension, I take the shocks off and loosen all the bulkhead screws and upper deck screws to let eveyrthing relax. Then I plop my car on my new PPD Billet Tweak plate as it bolts the chassis to a flat peice of aluminum. After the car is bolted down I tighten all the screws back up again. You can accomplish the same thing by pressing down on the chassis when the upper deck screws are loose, but I think the PPD billet plate is a very easy, and effective way to untweak the chassis (as long as there are no bent parts).
Then I will measure the shocks, and make sure they are the same left to right. Then I will measure rebound and make sure they are the same left to right. Then I put the shocks aside and make sure the arms have the same amount of downtravel left to right. At that point I'klll put the shocks back on, and put everything in my car except the body to set ride height and do some final tweaks on the preload to make sure everything sits right. I always use the tip on an xacto knife to lift up the chassis from the bottom along the centerline to make sure the left and right tires lift up at the same time. Then I do the front the same way.
But to actually un tweak the suspension, I take the shocks off and loosen all the bulkhead screws and upper deck screws to let eveyrthing relax. Then I plop my car on my new PPD Billet Tweak plate as it bolts the chassis to a flat peice of aluminum. After the car is bolted down I tighten all the screws back up again. You can accomplish the same thing by pressing down on the chassis when the upper deck screws are loose, but I think the PPD billet plate is a very easy, and effective way to untweak the chassis (as long as there are no bent parts).
Then I will measure the shocks, and make sure they are the same left to right. Then I will measure rebound and make sure they are the same left to right. Then I put the shocks aside and make sure the arms have the same amount of downtravel left to right. At that point I'klll put the shocks back on, and put everything in my car except the body to set ride height and do some final tweaks on the preload to make sure everything sits right. I always use the tip on an xacto knife to lift up the chassis from the bottom along the centerline to make sure the left and right tires lift up at the same time. Then I do the front the same way.
11-14-2008, 10:17 AM
