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Old 11-13-2008, 11:58 PM   #14476
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I am soooooooo glad I read your comment... I just purchased 4 scales and was having a hell of a time trying to figure out how to move my weight around the chassis... I found myself spending 30 + min screwing with the shock preload and I gave up... I didn't know what the hell I was doing Now I will attack the problem again like you suggested ( shocks detached ) , move my weights around then de-tweak on my Hudy board... If anyone has any suggestions or tips on de-tweaking with scales I would love to know... Thanks...
actually if you were to solve the problem correctly you would need to replace your shocks by a fixed length bar with equal weight to the shocks or fix your shocks to the ride height position.letting it sit low without shocks and swaybars will still not give you accurate cg results.
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Old 11-14-2008, 01:20 AM   #14477
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another probleme , i rebuilt my shocks and the front ones where fine ( no leaking , no probleme ) but the rear shocks kept leaking , my front end is ready but my rear end doesnt have any bulkheads so i ordered some and im waiting for them to arrive , so while waiting , i went through my car cleaning rebuilding ... when it came to shocks , my front shocks are on the car but my rea ones are on my shelf , sitting straight not laying down , to be mounted but in the morning i found that there was oil everywhere on the shock . I checked the front shocks , no probs but the rear ones and oil all over them so i took the spring off and i checked the rebound , when they where new rebound was quick to 100% but when i checked rebound in morning , it was a bit slower but it had 91% rebound .
Whats is wrong with my rear shocks ?
Thanks guys
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Old 11-14-2008, 01:51 AM   #14478
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guess most of the Hotbodies Driver running Spool there.
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Old 11-14-2008, 02:06 AM   #14479
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Maybe the o rings in the bottom of the shock bodies are worn out?
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Old 11-14-2008, 02:08 AM   #14480
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Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
I'm putting the new TC arms on my Moore edition and I noticed that the front steering links are now angled forward where as they were in line to each other with the old arms. I know this will effect ackerman but has anybody noticed a big (any) difference in steering feel ?
Thanks.
Hi,

this is the major difference between the TC and the older Cyclones. It works well with Rubber tires on asphalt. Most drivers here in Germany don't like it on the smaller indoor tracks on carpet (again rubber tires).

We changed the wheelbase on the front with the TC arms. Build the front as short as possible and it drives like the older arms.

mfg Martin
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Old 11-14-2008, 02:20 AM   #14481
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well, its pretty well known now that even the original cyclone is still extremely competitive so dont worry about that.
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Old 11-14-2008, 03:09 AM   #14482
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Maybe the o rings in the bottom of the shock bodies are worn out?
Well , it leaks on the top , not on the bottom .
I checked it now , i cleaned the oil (in the morning ) and now , not leaking anymore but is has quite slow rebound only to about 88% .
So .....?
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:46 AM   #14483
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.. If anyone has any suggestions or tips on de-tweaking with scales I would love to know... Thanks...
Lightfoot and all
What works well for me is to run all the droop screws down 1 full turn, that will eliminate the springs and sway bars when moving weight around. I also use 2 scales (a small bubble level helps) and one balance pin making it a 3 point operation first. That will allow you to do the back and front separately first. With the sway bars unhooked bring the droop screws back up 1 turn. Do the springs and then hook the sway bar up and set that. (4 Set up wheels makes it more accurate ) then use all 4 scales to finish up and check tweak, I can do mine in 10 min. this way.
I hope that helps
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:55 AM   #14484
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Hara drops a wee hint about the next Cyclone version: http://www.hpi.tv
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:32 AM   #14485
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
Well , it leaks on the top , not on the bottom .
I checked it now , i cleaned the oil (in the morning ) and now , not leaking anymore but is has quite slow rebound only to about 88% .
So .....?
Any advice ?

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Lightfoot and all
What works well for me is to run all the droop screws down 1 full turn, that will eliminate the springs and sway bars when moving weight around. I also use 2 scales (a small bubble level helps) and one balance pin making it a 3 point operation first. That will allow you to do the back and front separately first. With the sway bars unhooked bring the droop screws back up 1 turn. Do the springs and then hook the sway bar up and set that. (4 Set up wheels makes it more accurate ) then use all 4 scales to finish up and check tweak, I can do mine in 10 min. this way.
I hope that helps
I just bought 4 digital scales and i dont really under stand how to de tweak my car ?
Should i put the shocks on ?
OR the sway bars ?
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:42 AM   #14486
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cyclone speed

you are overcomplexifying this big time.

build your car as per instructions. check symmetry on droop gauges. lift the front wheels, adjust with the rear shocks, do it for the rear too and you're set.

The rest, ie the way the "real" weight is distributed on the chassis, cannot be changed unless you add lead in strategic places. Front and rear weight remains constant, left and right remains constant, if the right side is light it will always be but in terms of handling at the first order you can always compensate a lot of it with the shock preloads

Re your rear leaking shocks, if it leaks from the top the membrane is shot.

Paul

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Old 11-14-2008, 07:49 AM   #14487
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A de-tweaked car will be level, front tires will have the same weight on both sides, back tires will have the same weight on both sides.
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:23 AM   #14488
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any body looking for a WCE Cyclone?

LOOK HERE
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:26 AM   #14489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddink View Post
Hi,

this is the major difference between the TC and the older Cyclones. It works well with Rubber tires on asphalt. Most drivers here in Germany don't like it on the smaller indoor tracks on carpet (again rubber tires).

We changed the wheelbase on the front with the TC arms. Build the front as short as possible and it drives like the older arms.

mfg Martin

Are you shimming the arm all the way back to get to the short wheelbase ?

On small carpet tracks where do you find the best shock mount to be on the new arms ? (front and rear)
Thanks.
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:27 AM   #14490
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Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
A de-tweaked car will be level, front tires will have the same weight on both sides, back tires will have the same weight on both sides.
so lazerguy should the numbers be the same front to back or just side to side right now they are the same side to side but not front to back
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