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Old 09-29-2007, 06:35 PM
  #9706  
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac
I can only speak about the Orion 4800 pack. It fits fine with zero modifications needed to fit into the Cyclone.

Another thing you can try are these weights from NEXUS Racing. They will help keep the battery in place and help add weight while maintaining a lower center of gravity.

Check them out: Nexus Racing LiPO Weight Set
I assume you used those?

Any pics?

I really need pics right now, the guys car was a tc5, I need to see it in a cyclone....

Those looks sweet though! Is weight needed?
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Old 09-29-2007, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
I assume you used those?

Any pics?

I really need pics right now, the guys car was a tc5, I need to see it in a cyclone....

Those looks sweet though! Is weight needed?
Yes, I use those weights. Actually I'm using 2 sets. I put 2 weights in each battery slot. Then I added the rest of the weight I needed to the outside of the battery. Yes, weight IS needed. The Orion 4800 weighs in at only 285g. To meet the ROAR 1525g minimum weight for rubber tire class you will have to add weight.

Sorry no pics.
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Old 09-29-2007, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac
Yes, I use those weights. Actually I'm using 2 sets. I put 2 weights in each battery slot. Then I added the rest of the weight I needed to the outside of the battery. Yes, weight IS needed. The Orion 4800 weighs in at only 285g. To meet the ROAR 1525g minimum weight for rubber tire class you will have to add weight.

Sorry no pics.
I club race, no tech

No weight limit, so with no limit, what would you do then?

I want to stay nice and light, with all the alu on the cyclone its alot heavier then the tc5, I did notice that, or atleast it seemed that way because we have the same electronics in out cars
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Old 09-30-2007, 01:55 PM
  #9709  
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Does anyone know what cyclone chassis that is towards the bottom of the page?

http://www.much-more.co.jp/IIC2007/IIC2007.htm
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:22 PM
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today at the track i broke 2 diff screws 1 was the ti diff screw though i was involved in two crashes i think they are two soft someone told me they are using the d4 screw now is that true does it it directly fit or doo u need to make changes and could i get a part number and hobby store.thanks
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by barber
today at the track i broke 2 diff screws 1 was the ti diff screw though i was involved in two crashes i think they are two soft someone told me they are using the d4 screw now is that true does it it directly fit or doo u need to make changes and could i get a part number and hobby store.thanks
Just stick a 3x6x0.5mm washer (Z203) under the diff nut... you shouldn't break another screw
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Just stick a 3x6x0.5mm washer (Z203) under the diff nut... you shouldn't break another screw
What does that do to make it not break?

I need to do that when the next one goes
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
What does that do to make it not break?

I need to do that when the next one goes
In my experience the diff screw always broke off just at the end of the thread of the screw. Hence the theory is that the nut gets twisted in the diff housing. The washer helps keep the diff nut square inside the diff outdrive housing. Keeping the diff nut perpendicular to the screw allows the screw to take maximum loads. Anyway the bottom line is that with the additional washer I have not broken a screw in over a year of modified racing. Hope this helps.....
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Just stick a 3x6x0.5mm washer (Z203) under the diff nut... you shouldn't break another screw
i will try that thanks and report back.
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad
In my experience the diff screw always broke off just at the end of the thread of the screw. Hence the theory is that the nut gets twisted in the diff housing. The washer helps keep the diff nut square inside the diff outdrive housing. Keeping the diff nut perpendicular to the screw allows the screw to take maximum loads. Anyway the bottom line is that with the additional washer I have not broken a screw in over a year of modified racing. Hope this helps.....
this helps alot since i am running brushless do u get problems with the diff slacking up while running.
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad
In my experience the diff screw always broke off just at the end of the thread of the screw. Hence the theory is that the nut gets twisted in the diff housing. The washer helps keep the diff nut square inside the diff outdrive housing. Keeping the diff nut perpendicular to the screw allows the screw to take maximum loads. Anyway the bottom line is that with the additional washer I have not broken a screw in over a year of modified racing. Hope this helps.....
Yup, thats where mine breaks

Thanks for the info
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:50 PM
  #9717  
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so anyone know when and who's goin to have those 18t pullys in stock?
oh also the longer belts
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:53 PM
  #9718  
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Originally Posted by Vicko
so anyone know when and who's goin to have those 18t pullys in stock?
oh also the longer belts
mine are arriving this week sometime from overseas.
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Old 09-30-2007, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rc-zombies
mine are arriving this week sometime from overseas.
I wish mine were too
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Old 09-30-2007, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by barber
this helps alot since i am running brushless do u get problems with the diff slacking up while running.
I drop of Loctite in the diff nut thread (when building up the diff) should stop this as well.
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