Hot Bodies Cyclone
07-10-2006, 08:27 AM
#4576
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Just drove my brand new Cyclone this weekend. 
Our track is outdoor asphalt, in sunny/hot south Florida, with mid-low traction. Car was awesome. I broke all my personal records, and no one could keep up with the car. Handles awesome and goes fast through the corners and out with very smooth acceleration and shoots straight to where you want it to go. We run brushless 4.5 or 5.5 systems w/ Orion 4800mah Lipo packs. Cars are very fast out there, but the cyclone was just a notch ahead in handling out of the box. Now, I have been thinking of getting a spool for my car...will a front spool work with the one way middle pulley, or will I have to change it to a solid one? Also, what upgrades will be good to enhance the car's durability and performance? Also, need some good set up sheets for the car in outdoor asphalt, hot, med-low traction...thank you 
Our track is outdoor asphalt, in sunny/hot south Florida, with mid-low traction. Car was awesome. I broke all my personal records, and no one could keep up with the car. Handles awesome and goes fast through the corners and out with very smooth acceleration and shoots straight to where you want it to go. We run brushless 4.5 or 5.5 systems w/ Orion 4800mah Lipo packs. Cars are very fast out there, but the cyclone was just a notch ahead in handling out of the box. Now, I have been thinking of getting a spool for my car...will a front spool work with the one way middle pulley, or will I have to change it to a solid one? Also, what upgrades will be good to enhance the car's durability and performance? Also, need some good set up sheets for the car in outdoor asphalt, hot, med-low traction...thank you 
07-10-2006, 03:18 PM
#4581
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
07-10-2006, 03:24 PM
#4582
checkpoint said at one time they will release a fan kit. but I haven't heard anything new since then...
so I ended up fabricating my own.
I used
(2) 3mmx10 or 12mm grub screw
(2) Tobee standoff front bumber brace from the Pro4
(1) 25mm 5v fan.
I had to drill and tap the mounting holes for 3mm.
simply insert the grub screw and tighten with the Tobee standoff
and install the fan.
an alternate is to find a long enought 2.5mm screw to go all the way through.
so I ended up fabricating my own.
I used
(2) 3mmx10 or 12mm grub screw
(2) Tobee standoff front bumber brace from the Pro4
(1) 25mm 5v fan.
I had to drill and tap the mounting holes for 3mm.
simply insert the grub screw and tighten with the Tobee standoff
and install the fan.
an alternate is to find a long enought 2.5mm screw to go all the way through.
07-10-2006, 03:49 PM
#4583
Excellent Work 
Are Yokomo diff screws not 2.5mm?
Anyone know when Checkpoint will be realeasing their IB4200SHV cells?
Are Yokomo diff screws not 2.5mm?
Anyone know when Checkpoint will be realeasing their IB4200SHV cells?
07-10-2006, 07:20 PM
#4586
Originally Posted by XrayFK
What size are the pivot balls that fit into the shock caps? I want to switch from the HPI nut style shock mounting to the Tamiya/Xray style where the ball inside the cap is threaded. Thanks.
Tamiya uses a 4.3mm ball (the same as the pro3 used). Tamiya part numbers for fluorine ball studs (TAM53598) and ball nuts (TAM53599). In order to use these you need a different shock cap and shock end.
Fortunately a shock end can be sourced from the parts tree that has the normal shock ends on it. Unfortunately those shock ends are significantly shorter, so much so that they need ~.8mm of shims added on top of them so that the lower spring perch doesnt hit the a-arm in the rear. in the front this is not an issue. (side note, i tried ONE of my purple .75 shims but the outer diameter was so close to the spring perch diameter, that it didnt want to slide in and out very freely, so i ended up having to use suspension arm shims, since these had a slightly smaller outher diameter. However I cant say for sure that the purple aluminum hpi shims wont work, since the one i tried may just be a little large).
For the shock cap, you can buy the A471 parts tree from the Pro3, which will have a pair of the caps that you need. Problem is the parts trees are $7 ea, so its $14 for all four caps.
To further mix things up, the A471 parts tree also contains shock ends, but I am unsure of their length, in comparison to the ends on the kit tree.
All in all it hasnt been very simple, and I'm beginning to question whether or not use tamiya style balls with hpi plastic is a good idea, since they are quite hard to get on and off, and it seems like the plastic is going to develop slop quickly. Ive only been experimenting with this for a couple of races, so nothing is definitive.
I can say that the fluorine balls are incredibly frictionless & smooth, and significantly lighter than the stock hpi setup (esp if you're using the purple hpi shock balls with the kit screws).
Also its a lot easier to change shock angle, since you dont even have to take the shocks off to do it
07-10-2006, 07:54 PM
#4587
Originally Posted by floodo1
Ok heres the dish, as far as i have it figured out so far.
Tamiya uses a 4.3mm ball (the same as the pro3 used). Tamiya part numbers for fluorine ball studs (TAM53598) and ball nuts (TAM53599). In order to use these you need a different shock cap and shock end.
Fortunately a shock end can be sourced from the parts tree that has the normal shock ends on it. Unfortunately those shock ends are significantly shorter, so much so that they need ~.8mm of shims added on top of them so that the lower spring perch doesnt hit the a-arm in the rear. in the front this is not an issue. (side note, i tried ONE of my purple .75 shims but the outer diameter was so close to the spring perch diameter, that it didnt want to slide in and out very freely, so i ended up having to use suspension arm shims, since these had a slightly smaller outher diameter. However I cant say for sure that the purple aluminum hpi shims wont work, since the one i tried may just be a little large).
For the shock cap, you can buy the A471 parts tree from the Pro3, which will have a pair of the caps that you need. Problem is the parts trees are $7 ea, so its $14 for all four caps.
To further mix things up, the A471 parts tree also contains shock ends, but I am unsure of their length, in comparison to the ends on the kit tree.
All in all it hasnt been very simple, and I'm beginning to question whether or not use tamiya style balls with hpi plastic is a good idea, since they are quite hard to get on and off, and it seems like the plastic is going to develop slop quickly. Ive only been experimenting with this for a couple of races, so nothing is definitive.
I can say that the fluorine balls are incredibly frictionless & smooth, and significantly lighter than the stock hpi setup (esp if you're using the purple hpi shock balls with the kit screws).
Also its a lot easier to change shock angle, since you dont even have to take the shocks off to do it
Tamiya uses a 4.3mm ball (the same as the pro3 used). Tamiya part numbers for fluorine ball studs (TAM53598) and ball nuts (TAM53599). In order to use these you need a different shock cap and shock end.
Fortunately a shock end can be sourced from the parts tree that has the normal shock ends on it. Unfortunately those shock ends are significantly shorter, so much so that they need ~.8mm of shims added on top of them so that the lower spring perch doesnt hit the a-arm in the rear. in the front this is not an issue. (side note, i tried ONE of my purple .75 shims but the outer diameter was so close to the spring perch diameter, that it didnt want to slide in and out very freely, so i ended up having to use suspension arm shims, since these had a slightly smaller outher diameter. However I cant say for sure that the purple aluminum hpi shims wont work, since the one i tried may just be a little large).
For the shock cap, you can buy the A471 parts tree from the Pro3, which will have a pair of the caps that you need. Problem is the parts trees are $7 ea, so its $14 for all four caps.
To further mix things up, the A471 parts tree also contains shock ends, but I am unsure of their length, in comparison to the ends on the kit tree.
All in all it hasnt been very simple, and I'm beginning to question whether or not use tamiya style balls with hpi plastic is a good idea, since they are quite hard to get on and off, and it seems like the plastic is going to develop slop quickly. Ive only been experimenting with this for a couple of races, so nothing is definitive.
I can say that the fluorine balls are incredibly frictionless & smooth, and significantly lighter than the stock hpi setup (esp if you're using the purple hpi shock balls with the kit screws).
Also its a lot easier to change shock angle, since you dont even have to take the shocks off to do it
I switched over to tamiya-style shock mounting on my old pro4 and cyclone. It worked really well! I used the same parts you mentioned, but...
Instead of using shims, I threaded a plain (non-nylon) 3mm nut onto the shock shaft before threading the shock end on and it worked as a perfect spacer. (As a bonus, I was able to tighten the shock end to the nut and it automatically made all of my shocks the same length!)
Here are a couple of pics of my car with the completed mod:
07-10-2006, 09:17 PM
#4590
Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
Hey floodo1,
I switched over to tamiya-style shock mounting on my old pro4 and cyclone. It worked really well! I used the same parts you mentioned, but...
Instead of using shims, I threaded a plain (non-nylon) 3mm nut onto the shock shaft before threading the shock end on and it worked as a perfect spacer. (As a bonus, I was able to tighten the shock end to the nut and it automatically made all of my shocks the same length!)
Here are a couple of pics of my car with the completed mod:
I switched over to tamiya-style shock mounting on my old pro4 and cyclone. It worked really well! I used the same parts you mentioned, but...
Instead of using shims, I threaded a plain (non-nylon) 3mm nut onto the shock shaft before threading the shock end on and it worked as a perfect spacer. (As a bonus, I was able to tighten the shock end to the nut and it automatically made all of my shocks the same length!)
Here are a couple of pics of my car with the completed mod:
