Hot Bodies Cyclone

[Jazza]

Originally Posted by cosmo1974

http://www.exotekracing.com/EXOTEK_N.../9/30_HBX.html

Thanks cosmo very much appreciated.
Happy racing.

Cheers Daz

[kschu]

Originally Posted by cosmo1974

Hi Korey,

Are you able to provide some background on the specific model Orca ESC you are using ??

How does it compare to the LRP SPX (mode 7) when used for Super Stock (say 10.5 or 13.5 brushless) ??

Thanks in advance

if im not mistaken, korey was using Orca vritra tc spec esc...it's a esc that have dynamic timing a.k.a TURBO.....

in the local here, spx was no fight with the Orca even spx crank at max profile(11.5t motor)........

[Korey Harbke]

I am actually using both the Vritra TC spec and Vritra VC4 in spec racing. They both have the dynamic timing profiles and a really cool handheld programmer. I typically use the TC spec in modified and the VC4 in spec racing.

I have found since the VC4 actually has fewer FETs, it keeps the motor temperatures cooler when using the dynamic timing modes. The TC spec is almost too powerful sometimes, so it dumps a lot of current into the motor. The excess current just bleeds off as heat. The SPX works in a similar matter. Plus its pretty dang cheap!

The TC spec is a full blown modified racing ESC. It has a lot of FETs so it can carry a lot of current. But it also has dynamic timing profiles so it can be competitive in stock as well. It just takes a slightly different setup than the VC4.

-Korey

[JimmyMac]

Sorry, I know this is an HB thread... But don't forget to check out the ORCA thread in the Malaysian forums here. Korey is pretty helpful with the ORCA and settings. I have been using the TC Spec as well. It's a very nice esc.

Hey Korey, do they sell a full length topdeck w/bulkheads (ala 416 style) for the Cyclone? I haven't kept up with Cyclone stuff. Just wondering if they do or not.

[Korey Harbke]

The European team has tested it off and on, but it seems like they are moving away from it now. I just run a standard top deck that is cut.

-Korey

[madwestmo]

would love to see some pics of your race car korey if you cud post some one day

[Korey Harbke]

Well... if you look in the RC Xtreme that covers The 2009 Reedy Race there is a tiny picture of my car!!! Haha. I'll get some this weekend while I'm racing and post them up for you guys.

-Korey

[cosmo1974]

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke

The European team has tested it off and on, but it seems like they are moving away from it now. I just run a standard top deck that is cut.

-Korey

Hi Korey,
Just to clarify.

(1) You are using a cut top deck (same cut as what Phil Chambers described a while ago).
Is this all the time?

(2) Are you running a cut middle deck?
Is this all the time?

Cheers

[TheCoolCanFanMan]

Korey u av pm
Cheers Malc

[Korey Harbke]

Originally Posted by cosmo1974

Hi Korey,
Just to clarify.

(1) You are using a cut top deck (same cut as what Phil Chambers described a while ago).
Is this all the time?

(2) Are you running a cut middle deck?
Is this all the time?

Cheers

1.) Yes, and... it's the only one I have right now so I guess so!!!

2.) No, and no. I'm not sure I like the cut rear deck all the time. I have mixed results depending on how much grip there is. It's something I try in practice before racing starts every time I race though. It's an easy change to make.

-Korey

[billythekid]

Hey Korey, from your testing, what difference does the cut middle (rear) deck make?

[Little_Mike]

Originally Posted by Little_Mike

no please don't.

get the hard version type. they hardly ever break, I have not broken one for months (no joke). And when they do break, they simply break unlike aluminum which could bend and screw up your setup and you may never know what it is.
/rant

on a better note, I tired the Exotek chassis; PURE AWESOMENESS.
My car has never handled better, it has much harder turn in characteristics (i dialed a little out but I like the fact it has the capability to give you that much turn in if you need it). It also has amazing transitioning from left to right turns vice versa, I really notice it in the chicanes and s's, I was overtaking absolutely everyone in those sections. In short, it feels like I am driving a foam car. Only without the twitchiness. The only criticism I have is the method of taping the battery in, it is a total pain in the ass. But it is worth it.

Addendum: I went to this chassis from the WCE, not the TC, so your results may vary. And yes I am quoting myself, I am that important.

[cosmo1974]

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke

1.) Yes, and... it's the only one I have right now so I guess so!!!

2.) No, and no. I'm not sure I like the cut rear deck all the time. I have mixed results depending on how much grip there is. It's something I try in practice before racing starts every time I race though. It's an easy change to make.

-Korey

Hi Korey,
I am suitably confused, and need some more of your expert education.

(1) A ways back in this thread there was the following dialog with yourself.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
I think the cut middle deck also works great on "Super" high bite to free up the rear.
May be we should have tried?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by jag88
Would you suggest that this be tried with rubber on carpet ? I've been running the car all summer on mid to high grip carpet ( Jaco blues, Jack, 13.5, spool ). What's happening to me is that the car has no corner speed. It basically stops mid corner. I just switched to the lipo top deck and the overall chassis seems to have too much flex. I thought that the chassis was giving up in the corners and that's why it was stopping mid corner. If I cut the middle deck wouldn't that make the problem worse ?
I realize that you guys run mostly on asphault but maybe you may have a thought.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I would leave it uncut... and run ATC posts up front if you have them (using 2mm shims instead of the orings). If you are running the chassis that came in the TC kit, it tends to:
-- flex a little too much in the front just under the diff, and
-- just about right in the rear.
You might even want to try a normal graphite rear plate as well if you can find them.

I would also suggest raising the roll center by adding shims under the suspension and toe blocks. If grip is good enough, you might be able to run as much as 2-3 mm under the suspension blocks. Just be careful though, I've noticed if you're not careful and raise the roll center too much on carpet, it can traction roll really easy when the grip gets high. I think it just makes the car transfer weight too fast side to side and makes the car grab really weird. You'll have to play with it to find a happy medium.
-Korey
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

(2) I need some of your expert guidance on when to use (and *not* to use) the:
-- ATC posts
-- cut rear (middle) deck
-- cut top deck

(3) I am particularly confused about the bolded text above ("flex a little too much in the front just under the diff"), and the fact that your are running a cut top deck. Doesn't this make the front end way too flexible ??

Thanks in advance

[cosmo1974]

Hi,

(1) Since I posted the previous item, I have cut the top deck and placed in my TC. What I have noticed is that the cut is in line with the servo position (a couple of inches back from the front spool).

(2) So I'm guessing that I could run the ATC posts to firm up the front, and the cut top deck will provide some flex just forward of the middle of the car. Does this sound plausible ??

Cheers

[madwestmo]

I have recently got myself the ATC posts and a woven graphite middle deck , i also run 13.5t rubber on carpet , i was wondering what instances would i use the ATC posts , i have installed them all around with the o-rings all round just to try out the effect of them

The last time i had a race meeting i was running pro 4 pink springs/ 45wt all round well here is the setup i was running , as someone posted on here :

<Front>
Shock position- No2 on arms/No3 on the tower(from the inside)
Camber link- Inside hole/3mm shims
Droop- 5.5mm on the gauge
Hex Hubs- 5mm
Suspension Blocks- F/F1.5deg
Shocks- Spring/Pinks, Oil/45wt, Piston/1.1mm 3holes
Sway bar- 1.4mm (Silver)
Camber-1.5deg
Castor- 4deg
Front Drive- Spool
Ackerman- 3mm
1.5mm shims under the suspension blocks
Arm spacing- 2.75mm in front of arms/0mm back

<Rear>
Shock position- No3 on arms/No4 on the tower
Camber link- Inside hole/2mm shims
Droop- 5.0mm on the gauge
Hex Hubs- 5mm
Suspension Blocks- 3deg
Shocks- Spring/Pinks, Oil/45wt, Piston/1.1mm 3holes
Sway bar- 1.2mm (Copper)
Camber- 2.0deg
Rear hub Spacing- 2.0mm in front of the hub/0.75mm back
Arm Spacing- 2.0mm in front/0.75mm back
1.5mm shims under the suspension blocks

I tried this with Sorex 24's and it was ok but didnt feel dialed , for the last final of the day i got to try some guys tire warmers for the first time as he said they will make lots of difference for me. At the same time i also changed my springs back to the old standard setup of gold/silver, Anyways i ended up winning the final and the car felt very good indeed but i did notice i was getting lots and lots of grip now , so much that my car was 'juddering' around the corner , hence why i got the ATC posts and graphite deck to try, maybe cut the middle deck ?? anyone any idea's or any help at all with what im doing wrong

Thanks
Mark