Hot Bodies Cyclone
10-19-2009, 02:31 PM
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10-19-2009, 03:38 PM
10-19-2009, 03:40 PM
10-19-2009, 03:44 PM
10-19-2009, 07:58 PM
Couple of questions for you TC guys. I am normally a off road guy but, I do understand the basics of TC setup. My question is, how far is to far with droop.
My car was dumping the front and spinning out. So I took out some rear droop down to 1.5 over ride height. How much more can I go?
My car was dumping the front and spinning out. So I took out some rear droop down to 1.5 over ride height. How much more can I go?
10-19-2009, 08:02 PM
and I had a copy, but lost it somewhere
10-19-2009, 09:20 PM
Couple of questions for you TC guys. I am normally a off road guy but, I do understand the basics of TC setup. My question is, how far is to far with droop.
My car was dumping the front and spinning out. So I took out some rear droop down to 1.5 over ride height. How much more can I go?
My car was dumping the front and spinning out. So I took out some rear droop down to 1.5 over ride height. How much more can I go?
-Korey
10-19-2009, 10:28 PM
Couple of questions for you TC guys. I am normally a off road guy but, I do understand the basics of TC setup. My question is, how far is to far with droop.
My car was dumping the front and spinning out. So I took out some rear droop down to 1.5 over ride height. How much more can I go?
My car was dumping the front and spinning out. So I took out some rear droop down to 1.5 over ride height. How much more can I go?
10-19-2009, 10:53 PM
looking to get a Team Epic 5000 40c or IP5000 40c lipo for my cyclone. Would i have any fitment issues? Something tells me id need to grind the bulkhead to get it to fit.
http://www.teamepiconline.com/shop/i...p?item=TEP2001
would the bullet plug version work better than the deans one or vice versa?
http://www.teamepiconline.com/shop/i...p?item=TEP2001
would the bullet plug version work better than the deans one or vice versa?
10-19-2009, 11:03 PM
Tech Adept
Exotek HBX Lipo Chassis - brand new
***
Last edited by charlie_b; 10-20-2009 at 12:24 PM. Reason: Quit Spamming
10-19-2009, 11:04 PM
how much?
10-19-2009, 11:40 PM
Sometimes this is a little weird to explain, but I'll give it my best shot. I think of the shims under the camber link and the shims under the suspension blocks as two totally different things. It makes it a lot easier to understand, apply, and see the results on the track.
Shims under the camber link do change roll center, but it's a much finer adjustment of roll center. Personally, I don't think you are feeling this change. When you change the shims under the camber link, most people feel the change in the camber gain characteristics. On the cyclone, more shims under the pivot (flatter link) reduces camber change, so the camber setting stays mostly the same as the car rolls, but it gives a slightly lower roll center. Generally more shims will create slightly more initial grip (especially at high speed) and produce less overall grip through the middle and exit of the corner. Fewer shims (more angled link) does the opposite, and have more camber change (more negative camber as the suspension is compressed), but also gives a slightly higher roll center. Generally a more angled camber link will have less initial grip entering the corner, but more in the middle and exit.
Now for the suspension blocks. The suspension blocks do change roll center and camber change characteristics much like the camber link shims do... but the shims under the suspension blocks have a much greater effect on roll center than it does on the camber change characteristics. More shims under the suspension blocks raises the roll center. This gives more initial grip, less roll, but less overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. Think of it as if the car feels... stiffer. Fewer shims will lower the roll center. The result is a car that rolls more and has more overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. It does smooth out the car entering the corner though.
I hope that wasn't too confusing. Sometimes these adjustments can have varied effects depending on the track conditions and the rest of your setup. But it is a good guideline to work from. Hope this helped!
-Korey
Shims under the camber link do change roll center, but it's a much finer adjustment of roll center. Personally, I don't think you are feeling this change. When you change the shims under the camber link, most people feel the change in the camber gain characteristics. On the cyclone, more shims under the pivot (flatter link) reduces camber change, so the camber setting stays mostly the same as the car rolls, but it gives a slightly lower roll center. Generally more shims will create slightly more initial grip (especially at high speed) and produce less overall grip through the middle and exit of the corner. Fewer shims (more angled link) does the opposite, and have more camber change (more negative camber as the suspension is compressed), but also gives a slightly higher roll center. Generally a more angled camber link will have less initial grip entering the corner, but more in the middle and exit.
Now for the suspension blocks. The suspension blocks do change roll center and camber change characteristics much like the camber link shims do... but the shims under the suspension blocks have a much greater effect on roll center than it does on the camber change characteristics. More shims under the suspension blocks raises the roll center. This gives more initial grip, less roll, but less overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. Think of it as if the car feels... stiffer. Fewer shims will lower the roll center. The result is a car that rolls more and has more overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. It does smooth out the car entering the corner though.
I hope that wasn't too confusing. Sometimes these adjustments can have varied effects depending on the track conditions and the rest of your setup. But it is a good guideline to work from. Hope this helped!
-Korey
(1) It has been about 3 months and (this morning) I have finally found out why my car has been VERY VERY taily (180 degree spins were quite common). So I thought I would share my experience.
(2) Based on Korey's response above (to my previous query), I went back and thought about what I had been doing wrong. I also checked all the other HB Team Driver settings. Previously, I thought I had been changing roll centre, when I had actually been changing the camber gain.
(3) Previously (due to my misunderstanding), my front camber gain was greater than the rear. Whereas, all the Team Drivers have the rear camber gain greater than the front. Typically, 2.5mm shim up front and a 1.0mm shim on the rear (the camber link shim, aka upper arm shim).
(4) As it happens, I now have a setup very similar to Hara at RROC May 2008.
I'll be able to move forward with something much more drivable.
(5) So anyone else having rear end problems might also like to check their camber gain settings (and roll centres).
Oh Joy
PS: At least I am more familiar with my car.
10-20-2009, 12:53 AM
Korey (& Co),
(1) It has been about 3 months and (this morning) I have finally found out why my car has been VERY VERY taily (180 degree spins were quite common). So I thought I would share my experience.
(2) Based on Korey's response above (to my previous query), I went back and thought about what I had been doing wrong. I also checked all the other HB Team Driver settings. Previously, I thought I had been changing roll centre, when I had actually been changing the camber gain.
(3) Previously (due to my misunderstanding), my front camber gain was greater than the rear. Whereas, all the Team Drivers have the rear camber gain greater than the front. Typically, 2.5mm shim up front and a 1.0mm shim on the rear (the camber link shim, aka upper arm shim).
(4) As it happens, I now have a setup very similar to Hara at RROC May 2008.
I'll be able to move forward with something much more drivable.
(5) So anyone else having rear end problems might also like to check their camber gain settings (and roll centres).
Oh Joy
PS: At least I am more familiar with my car.
(1) It has been about 3 months and (this morning) I have finally found out why my car has been VERY VERY taily (180 degree spins were quite common). So I thought I would share my experience.
(2) Based on Korey's response above (to my previous query), I went back and thought about what I had been doing wrong. I also checked all the other HB Team Driver settings. Previously, I thought I had been changing roll centre, when I had actually been changing the camber gain.
(3) Previously (due to my misunderstanding), my front camber gain was greater than the rear. Whereas, all the Team Drivers have the rear camber gain greater than the front. Typically, 2.5mm shim up front and a 1.0mm shim on the rear (the camber link shim, aka upper arm shim).
(4) As it happens, I now have a setup very similar to Hara at RROC May 2008.
I'll be able to move forward with something much more drivable.
(5) So anyone else having rear end problems might also like to check their camber gain settings (and roll centres).
Oh Joy
PS: At least I am more familiar with my car.
10-20-2009, 12:56 AM
looking to get a Team Epic 5000 40c or IP5000 40c lipo for my cyclone. Would i have any fitment issues? Something tells me id need to grind the bulkhead to get it to fit.
http://www.teamepiconline.com/shop/i...p?item=TEP2001
would the bullet plug version work better than the deans one or vice versa?
http://www.teamepiconline.com/shop/i...p?item=TEP2001
would the bullet plug version work better than the deans one or vice versa?
You'll have to grind a few mm off the bulkhead, and the upper deck screw, but that's no big deal. There have been no performance losses due to grinding the bulkhead.
-Korey
10-20-2009, 02:01 AM