View Poll Results: what's your tire choice?
Protoform
46
30.67%
HPI
104
69.33%
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4318LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2
03-17-2013, 09:07 AM
#4381
You are correct. I have it exactly backwards. I confused roll center with center of gravity.
Last edited by beemerfan; 03-17-2013 at 03:31 PM.
03-17-2013, 12:51 PM
#4382
The best handling books I have seen are the XXX main handling guide and the XRAY T2/T3 handling guide. You can download the XRAY handing guide from the XRAY site. You can also go the the Petit RC website and there are several handling guides there.
03-17-2013, 01:54 PM
#4383
There have been some well done battery tests by Big Squid in their shoot outs. Good information on best selections here:
http://www.bigsquidrc.com/lipo-battery-shoot-out/
http://www.bigsquidrc.com/li-po-battery-shootout-2/
http://www.bigsquidrc.com/lipo-battery-shoot-out/
http://www.bigsquidrc.com/li-po-battery-shootout-2/
03-17-2013, 03:50 PM
#4384
I am a new RC racer looking to get into the VTA class. I have raced big cars and am very competitive so I want to purchase the very best car I can the first time. I will be running indoors on carpet. Not worried about price just want to know what the best car would be for indoor carpet VTA class.
Thanks
Thanks
03-17-2013, 04:17 PM
#4385
03-18-2013, 10:08 AM
#4386
Just throwing a question out there... how many batteries do you use to run one car?
Do you have a battery(s) that you use just for practice and have a "race battery"(s) ?
Or just use the same battery through out the day?
Do you have a battery(s) that you use just for practice and have a "race battery"(s) ?
Or just use the same battery through out the day?
03-18-2013, 11:15 AM
#4387
I just run the same battery at all times in my USVTA car until I feel that it is losing performance (when compared to other cars). Weekly racing at my local track is more about setup/driving than power, so a battery with less potential performace isn't usually an issue. In fact this past Friday I ran a battery that was 2 years old and qualified 4th with the exact same time (to the second) as 2nd & 3rd who were running newer cars/batteries.
If I were to run multiple batteries in USVTA, I would first want to test each battery's performance. If you have a charger that shows you voltage during discharge, you can check this way. You can also use a basic voltage meter to test voltage over time when putting a load on the battery. Once you have the performance numbers on each battery you can do a few things:
- If one battery is clearly better, just run that battery
- If several batteries have similar performace, use them to race & ractice.
- If any batteries are clearly weak, just use them for basic practicing - such as setting up trim, breaking in tires, etc.
Voltage curve is just one way to measure a battery, but is a good starting point.
Something to also consider is the physical difference between batteries. Many people have an older round 1 or practice battery and then save their best/newest battery for the last qualifier/main. Since the batteries may be different brands or ratings, they often can be different weights or dimensions. Switching batteries during a racing day can affect the balance of the car. Here are some things to consider:
- Make sure the batteries weigh the same before installing (you may need to add weight to the lighter battery)
- If the batteries are different dimensions (shorty vs standard) you may need to add weight to the chassis to achieve the same balance (front/rear or side/side)
- If the batteries are different heights and you are using a top battery brace, make sure to adjust the brace properly (to prevent tweaking the chassis).
In the end, will a better battery make a car perform better? Probably. But if your car is going faster into the corners and your car isn't setup to handle the increased speed, you could actually turn worse lap times. If you notice that your best/most consistent laps are the ones at the end of a run when your car is going a bit slower, then you need to work on setup (and driving).
If I were to run multiple batteries in USVTA, I would first want to test each battery's performance. If you have a charger that shows you voltage during discharge, you can check this way. You can also use a basic voltage meter to test voltage over time when putting a load on the battery. Once you have the performance numbers on each battery you can do a few things:
- If one battery is clearly better, just run that battery
- If several batteries have similar performace, use them to race & ractice.
- If any batteries are clearly weak, just use them for basic practicing - such as setting up trim, breaking in tires, etc.
Voltage curve is just one way to measure a battery, but is a good starting point.
Something to also consider is the physical difference between batteries. Many people have an older round 1 or practice battery and then save their best/newest battery for the last qualifier/main. Since the batteries may be different brands or ratings, they often can be different weights or dimensions. Switching batteries during a racing day can affect the balance of the car. Here are some things to consider:
- Make sure the batteries weigh the same before installing (you may need to add weight to the lighter battery)
- If the batteries are different dimensions (shorty vs standard) you may need to add weight to the chassis to achieve the same balance (front/rear or side/side)
- If the batteries are different heights and you are using a top battery brace, make sure to adjust the brace properly (to prevent tweaking the chassis).
In the end, will a better battery make a car perform better? Probably. But if your car is going faster into the corners and your car isn't setup to handle the increased speed, you could actually turn worse lap times. If you notice that your best/most consistent laps are the ones at the end of a run when your car is going a bit slower, then you need to work on setup (and driving).
03-18-2013, 11:16 AM
#4388
Just a heads up for folks in central Texas... VTA is really growing in Austin! We grew from zero VTAs 4 weeks ago to 10 this weekend! And there's still plenty more in the works! So if you weren't racing at HobbyTown Austin because you thought there wasn't a VTA class, think again and come join us! 
03-18-2013, 12:03 PM
#4389
Not a VTA legal body we've learned, but if you like Mustangs, this is bound to improve your day...
Great production quality! Nice that they include two sets (types) of tires.
Great production quality! Nice that they include two sets (types) of tires.
| + YouTube Video | |
03-19-2013, 03:26 PM
#4391
Does the new Vaterra brand qualify as VTA?
I been wondering how does one get into VTA? i know some rules maybe different due to i live in Canada but i like the style look of VTA cars! and would this car work as VTA?
Link:http://www.vaterrarc.com/Products/De...rodId=VTR03006
or looking at the hpi sprint cars.
Link:http://www.vaterrarc.com/Products/De...rodId=VTR03006
or looking at the hpi sprint cars.
Last edited by Schs2013; 03-19-2013 at 04:03 PM.
03-19-2013, 04:32 PM
#4392
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I been wondering how does one get into VTA? i know some rules maybe different due to i live in Canada but i like the style look of VTA cars! and would this car work as VTA?
Link:http://www.vaterrarc.com/Products/De...rodId=VTR03006
or looking at the hpi sprint cars.
Link:http://www.vaterrarc.com/Products/De...rodId=VTR03006
or looking at the hpi sprint cars.
you can use whatever chassis you want though...
the last wcics race is in calgary this weekend if you are going by there.
check out the wcics threads in the canadian forums
03-19-2013, 04:37 PM
#4393
since you are in edmon check out http://www.wcics.ca/ most in the west follow those rules but its up to your local club to give you details as clubs can vary
you can use whatever chassis you want though...
the last wcics race is in calgary this weekend if you are going by there.
check out the wcics threads in the canadian forums
you can use whatever chassis you want though...
the last wcics race is in calgary this weekend if you are going by there.
check out the wcics threads in the canadian forums
for chassis i was not really sure that mainly why i ask.
thanks for the help.
03-19-2013, 04:39 PM
#4394
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
http://www.youtube.com/user/rescue119007
heres some videos from the last wcics race that my club hosted in MJ, SK... check out the gt/cta mains...
heres some videos from the last wcics race that my club hosted in MJ, SK... check out the gt/cta mains...
03-19-2013, 04:53 PM
#4395
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
I'm currently hunting for a good carpet setup for my TC3 as well, but haven't found it yet. I can say that mine was working decent with a much softer shock setup than yours and 1.5 degrees of camber. Not even close to a traction roll issue and still plenty of steering, but I'm bleeding too much speed in the corners and I'm about 4 tenths off a winning pace.
One thing I've found that helps across the board on all setups is to raise the roll center by raising the suspension blocks. The previous post mentions it but he may be referring to a TC4 because it isn't quite that simple.
If you put 2 x 0.020 washers under both the front and rear inner suspension pin mounts, you raise the roll center about 1mm. However, you have to compensate on the outer pin blocks so you don't wind up with crazy angles on your suspension mounts. In this circumstance, use an F-2 block in front to wind up with 0 kickup. Use R-3-0 block in the rear to maintain the stock 2 degrees of kickup/anti-squat. Doing this will raise the roll center on the whole car 1mm, which should help the traction roll problem. You may also have to make an adjustment to your upper camber links if you raise the blocks this way.
One thing I've found that helps across the board on all setups is to raise the roll center by raising the suspension blocks. The previous post mentions it but he may be referring to a TC4 because it isn't quite that simple.
If you put 2 x 0.020 washers under both the front and rear inner suspension pin mounts, you raise the roll center about 1mm. However, you have to compensate on the outer pin blocks so you don't wind up with crazy angles on your suspension mounts. In this circumstance, use an F-2 block in front to wind up with 0 kickup. Use R-3-0 block in the rear to maintain the stock 2 degrees of kickup/anti-squat. Doing this will raise the roll center on the whole car 1mm, which should help the traction roll problem. You may also have to make an adjustment to your upper camber links if you raise the blocks this way.
Could i not just put little washers under all 4 screws front and rear that hold the 4 pin blocks to the chassis wont that keep all the angles the same just higher???