burned esc
#1
burned esc
Ok so i was running my on-road car at the track, im new to rc so i was going full throttle and braking a lot, my esc got really hot and now the car wont go, the motor just twitches so i got to reading and researching and i read something about if you drive full throttle and brake a lot the esc gets "voltage spikes" is this true? How can i avoid it next time? Oooh by the way its a sensorless setup, flux vapor esc and flux vektor motor any help is appreciated
#2
Anyone know about this? Plz share some knowledge guys tnx
#4
About the bump part tnx i didnt know that im new here i do appreciate any help though
#5
And the esc doesnt smell burnt
#6
Tech Elite
iTrader: (71)
what are you running (chassis, battery)? We need more information. Define hot? Could you touch it, if so how long could you have your finger on it?
When you pulled it off the track how was it acting? After you charged the batteries did you have the same problem?
Voltage spikes used to be a bigger problem when the batteries couldn't keep up.
When you pulled it off the track how was it acting? After you charged the batteries did you have the same problem?
Voltage spikes used to be a bigger problem when the batteries couldn't keep up.
#7
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
As far as I know that ESC is a rebranded Castle Creations Sidewinder that is waterproofed. Waterproof ESCs tend to have heat issues to begin with. I think a root part of your problem is that you were braking and accelerating very hard on a sensorless motor and speed control. Under hard acceleration sensorless motors tend to cog and generate excessive heat, same thing goes for braking. Actually accelerating quickly after hard braking causes the most cogging.
#8
what are you running (chassis, battery)? We need more information. Define hot? Could you touch it, if so how long could you have your finger on it?
When you pulled it off the track how was it acting? After you charged the batteries did you have the same problem?
Voltage spikes used to be a bigger problem when the batteries couldn't keep up.
When you pulled it off the track how was it acting? After you charged the batteries did you have the same problem?
Voltage spikes used to be a bigger problem when the batteries couldn't keep up.
#9
As far as I know that ESC is a rebranded Castle Creations Sidewinder that is waterproofed. Waterproof ESCs tend to have heat issues to begin with. I think a root part of your problem is that you were braking and accelerating very hard on a sensorless motor and speed control. Under hard acceleration sensorless motors tend to cog and generate excessive heat, same thing goes for braking. Actually accelerating quickly after hard braking causes the most cogging.
#10
Tech Elite
iTrader: (71)
As far as I know that ESC is a rebranded Castle Creations Sidewinder that is waterproofed. Waterproof ESCs tend to have heat issues to begin with. I think a root part of your problem is that you were braking and accelerating very hard on a sensorless motor and speed control. Under hard acceleration sensorless motors tend to cog and generate excessive heat, same thing goes for braking. Actually accelerating quickly after hard braking causes the most cogging.
To the op, you are geared too low I think. Move up a few teeth on the motor side and down a few on the spur. You currently have the largest spur that is available for your kit. That should help with your esc temps.
Last edited by mkiiina; 01-17-2012 at 06:09 PM.
#11
I tend to disagree with that, all the sensorless cogging i have experienced has been a very slow, almost crawling speeds.
To the op, you are geared too low I think. Move up a few teeth on the motor side and down a few on the spur. You currently have the largest spur that is available for your kit. That should help with your esc temps.
To the op, you are geared too low I think. Move up a few teeth on the motor side and down a few on the spur. You currently have the largest spur that is available for your kit. That should help with your esc temps.
#12
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I tend to disagree with that, all the sensorless cogging i have experienced has been a very slow, almost crawling speeds.
To the op, you are geared too low I think. Move up a few teeth on the motor side and down a few on the spur. You currently have the largest spur that is available for your kit. That should help with your esc temps.
To the op, you are geared too low I think. Move up a few teeth on the motor side and down a few on the spur. You currently have the largest spur that is available for your kit. That should help with your esc temps.
That would lower the gear ratio even further. High motor temps are usually a sign of gearing a car too low, not the other way around. Every sensorless setup I have messed with gets very hot when I am on the track, not so much when I'm bashing it. I have always attributed this to motor timing on and off the throttle/brakes.
#13
Tech Elite
iTrader: (71)
I should have specified. His pinion needs to go up a few teeth and spur needs to drop a few. Currently he is a an 8.61. Moving gearing around some (lets say 26/84) will take him to 6.88. To the OP you might want to consult your manual. If you don't have it, its posted on the HPI racing website in pdf form.
I run mainly sensorless setups and the temps (when geared correctly) are comparable to my sensored setups. If you look at most good sensored esc's they start out in sensored mode to get started (smoother power delivery) and then switch to sensorless when speeds increase.
Some can also do turbo and boost which will advance timing and lead to more heat on the motor but also more speed.
I run mainly sensorless setups and the temps (when geared correctly) are comparable to my sensored setups. If you look at most good sensored esc's they start out in sensored mode to get started (smoother power delivery) and then switch to sensorless when speeds increase.
Some can also do turbo and boost which will advance timing and lead to more heat on the motor but also more speed.
#14
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I should have specified. His pinion needs to go up a few teeth and spur needs to drop a few. Currently he is a an 8.61. Moving gearing around some (lets say 26/84) will take him to 6.88. To the OP you might want to consult your manual. If you don't have it, its posted on the HPI racing website in pdf form.
I run mainly sensorless setups and the temps (when geared correctly) are comparable to my sensored setups. If you look at most good sensored esc's they start out in sensored mode to get started (smoother power delivery) and then switch to sensorless when speeds increase.
Some can also do turbo and boost which will advance timing and lead to more heat on the motor but also more speed.
I run mainly sensorless setups and the temps (when geared correctly) are comparable to my sensored setups. If you look at most good sensored esc's they start out in sensored mode to get started (smoother power delivery) and then switch to sensorless when speeds increase.
Some can also do turbo and boost which will advance timing and lead to more heat on the motor but also more speed.
You are correct that a sensored speed control/motor runs in sensored mode only until the crossover point at which the hall effect sensors (what makes a motor "sensored") are no longer of use. They are mainly used when accelerating hard out of a turn after decelerating.