Root_66

iTrader: (17)

I would get a spare side damper. I broke one in a race and luckily Aaron Lane [Team Driver for Exotek] had a spare to give me since the hobby shop did not have any of the parts yet. I just race my car for the first time on asphalt last night with my carpet set up and the car was dialed. I only needed to raise the ride height. Look back a few pages for Wheelz set up and that will be a really good starting point on either carpet or asphalt.

I checked out you web page and your pro10 car looks really awesome! Great job. Let me know if you would like to sell one I would be interested. I used to have a pan car [Composite Craft Lynx] with a similar rear end. Loved that car.

Quante

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the info! I'll check out the setup.
I seriously need to update my sig, its a few generations behind ;-)
Current car:https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=5AB781B356BAA5A5!254&authkey=!ABWPs6II lK5pACc&ithint=folder%2cJPG
greetz

Boostinswifty38

iTrader: (6)

Anyone else having setup issues with their exotek f1r2? Mines doing ok, but could use more out of it. Anyone have a good base setup to use on low grip surfaces as well as med-high grip?

Quante

iTrader: (6)

Can I use the f104 motorplates on the f1r2 without modifications or do I need to redesign the cf parts?
In my opinion the left pod plate on the car is too weak, especially with the fan hole drilled through it.

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

My idea for an easy way to strengthen the left side of the motor plate was to add a piece to connect the current top hole with the holes on the back of the plate. It could be as simple as a 90 degree bracket that mounts to the back of the motor plate (where the holes are already) and comes up a 90 degree turn where it can connect with an extended piece from the current top/front hole.

E-clip

iTrader: (39)

Could someone explain how I can obtain droop in the front exotek arms setup with tamiya 101 steering knuckles?
Cheers

Quante

iTrader: (6)

I understand but that cant be done using carbon fiber and a bent plate of alu or steel just doesnt look good ;-)
Allthough it would be stronger, the front part is also made extremely thin and I'm afraid that would bend as well. The Tamiya's have more material so I would just need to remake the pod plates for them to fit.
Just hope they would fit right away so I dont need to redraw the car...

But thanks for the idea!

JayL

don't run spacers under the knuckle, and use the droop screws in the lower arm to adjust your droop.
I use these:
http://www.amain.com/Team-Durango-3x...Set-10/p176880
then you can adjust the droop from under the lower arm and not have to remove the upper arm

wheelz

Hey guys,
Sorry that I have been away from the board lately. The courses I took this summer used up a lot of time and I haven't been on the forums much! As Always anyone can message as they go straight to my email for any setup advice with the car. I will do my best to answer some of the questions I see right now though

Aaron

Thanks!! I always carry a couple spare dampers with me. After that day TQ has them in stock now Definitely a spare part worth having in the box just incase you get hit the "wrong" way...

What is your current setup and tires? More importantly what are you looking for your car to do differently? My setup is typically pretty good on most asphalt tracks but if the car is close to what you like then we can probably just change some little things on your car to get the desired response.

I have bent the left side plate once on my car. However I changed some hardware and that really really helped. I have yet to bend another side-plate. Originally I was trying to save weight and used rather short aluminum screws into the top of the motor plates and ended up bending the plates. I have found that the threads go really deep into the motor mounts and I am now using the longest steel screw possible to strengthen the plates. the screw actually sticks out of the bottom of the hole! Also, if i am not running a fan I still put 2 screws into the mounting holes to ensure that everything is as stiff as i can get it and that there are no voids in the material. After doing those 2 things I haven't bent a motor plate since. Its a cheap and easy modification to try that I've had a lot of success with it. Could be a good place to start!

E-clip

iTrader: (39)

Any closer on the IFS Mike ?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Hi!

The molded parts are in full production The metal parts are already here.

It's been a long arduous process getting the mold tool completed (a few corrections added a month or so to this time) but at least we know it's just a matter of time before we get a tracking number from the factory for the plastic parts shipment and then we can begin packaging!

Paco1001

iTrader: (1)

Hey Guys. Got to run my new f1r2 last night. I am pretty much running Aaron Lanes setup that's on the exotek page. I am running full sauce on the front tires but still very little turn in. I am running full Tamiya TCS tires all around. Any quick tips to get more steering? The last run of the night was pretty good but know where near I was hopping.

Thanks

Paco1001

iTrader: (1)

Just a couple of pics of my build.

Quante

iTrader: (6)

I'll definately put longer screws in, idd an easy fix and a good idea.
I'm also lacking steering mid corner, but its a lot better as I started. It seems as the rear spoiler is making too much downforce as the car gets worse when speeds go up.
I'm running the ride r1 tires they run at the races here, heard theybtend to understeer.
How are most running their ackerman angle? I noticed this did a lot.

wheelz

Hi I have a couple questions about your car so that I might be able to give you some ideas to try

-Carpet or asphalt?

-How much droop are you running on the main chassis to the rear pod?

-Are you looking for more initial steering, exit steering, or both?

-And by any chance do you know how much caster you're currently running?


My servo ackerman is just slightly forward on the servo. I am at work right now so i don't have pictures but I know for sure that I have a slight angle to mine. Changing the ackermam changes how much further the inside tire steers than the outer tire. I can be a small change but a very useful one in fine tuning a setup

One thing that I have stumbled onto and seen in testing and the wind tunnel is how much the rear wing height changes the cars handling. In a traditional a-arm style suspension, a rear wing pushes down on the car in a perpendicular plain to the ground. However with a direct drive car, the motion is now circular because it is rotating about the football with the axle as the center of the circle. So a higher wing will cause the middle of the car to lift and bind at higher speeds... the higher wing is leveraging the football up into the suspension more than a lower wing. On carpet you will find that the car is more consistent and has more grip with a lower wing than i higher one.