Originally Posted by Mb3195

i think you will find it is the ball joints on the camber links that are binding up. Although it could also be your driveshafts binding against the cups. THe easiest way to find out is to take the driveshafts out and see if it still does the same.

Originally Posted by photopro

Your issue is expected. The arm will never travel that far when you drive because the shock cannot compress that much. If you have the recommended 1.5mm aluminum spacer between the aluminum bulkhead and the rear hinge pin mount, you should be fine. As long as you have toe in from the rear tires. Without the toe, you need the 50mm axles, otherwise you don't.


BTW, ran the 2012 last night. Im so impressed. I have spent months tuning my other touring cars and this baby was so balanced and locked in that I don't think Im changing the set-up. UNREAL

Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn

now that you mention it, my right was 3.5 and left at 4 degrees lol.

i should look into that...

Originally Posted by Con

Yep me too. I put a 1.10 shim in the left side intsead of the 1.50 shim to compensate.
Seems to have been a problem since the T3 '10.

Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx

I will be running a LRP SXX Stock spec with a X12 17.5 what's a good starting point? If anyone can help thanks.

Originally Posted by sham55

just wondering if u guys have the same problem as mine ... the problems is that the rear toe is not the same left & right, the right i got 3 deg. toe in and left i got 3.5 deg. toe in, is anyone have the same problem as i in the t3'12 ??

Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx

It's my inner ball cup that's not letting it go all the way up, when I removed the inner ball cup it goes up as far as my 417.

Originally Posted by syndr0me

I've got a T3'11 with all the latest goodies that I'm planning to upgrade to a '12. I know I need chassis/topdeck/shock towers, and maybe the harder knuckles. I'm not quite sure, though, what's changed with the steering. Any guidance on what parts I need to grab to make the '11's steering work on the '12?

Originally Posted by ByteStream

2 x Xray 302526

or

Take what you already have, drill a hole in the right servo saver arm and shave off some of the left one.

Originally Posted by syndr0me

Thanks! So if you've already got the updates to the '11, this is what you need to make a '12?

301132 T3'12 chassis
303087 T3'12 shock tower rear
302086 T3'12 shock tower front
301193 T3'12 upper deck
302526 Composite dual servo saver arm (x2)
372503 Composite servo saver X-stiff
302253 Composite steering block hard (x2)

Originally Posted by Mb3195

i wouldnt worry about the shock towers and servo savers. How many times have you had problems with yours in the past?

Originally Posted by syndr0me

No problems with this car ever. I thought the shock positions on the new towers were optimized?

Originally Posted by EAMotorsports

I noticed last night that the steering arms are a different thickness and height than the old one as well. So you wont be able to just buy the right side when you do the conversion. Buy both left and right steering links to keep them the same height/size.

EA

Originally Posted by syndr0me

No problems with this car ever. I thought the shock positions on the new towers were optimized?