NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Maybe going back to the Formula Rabbit is a good idea?

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

or just change back to old front suspension with exotek stiffener.
That arm is bullet proof. together with exotek conversion (because it's strong and mostly importantly, still in production).

I was thinking about that, but I enjoy looking at the IFS and the mckune conversion, and exotek conversion doesn't support aluminum rear bulkhead (waste of an upgrade and my effort cutting the bulk head to fit big pinion).

a new car ended up as a better choice for me in long run.

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

My ham-fisted driving and attempts to batter the walls down had me breaking kingpins. The old thing about "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link" thing. The stock 3Racing kingpins were pretty weak. I have a McKune car that I bought used that has Tamiya kingpins and steering blocks. Haven't taken it out to pound walls yet.

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

"a chain is only as strong as its weakest link"
get a weak wall then!

Sydewynder

@nicholasxuu & gsxr0311

Rich has been racing his ifs car in the 15 min main it has survived with me on the track.

fleetmaster

iTrader: (16)

Must get around to posting a pic of the mod I did for the IFS conversion

It has one drawback - you must select your caster setting and stick with it.
I used the metal weighted camber/ caster mount, locked it together at the desired caster setting.
I then drilled through the threaded inserts, into the plate fully. I then tapped a thread into each hole in the weighted mount , finishing with longer steel ballstuds , going through an Exotek brace and threadlocked ....... Should be beefy enough

rhino131

iTrader: (27)

yes please would love to copy your ingenious idea .... sounds like it would solve lots of issues im having with the car

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Hi guys
I'm running 21.5 blinky and I have a 35t spur installed and from what I've read it looks like a 33t pinion is the go but not having the car ready yet I just wanted to make sure this is about right before I go any further. Also does anyone know tyre dimensions to put into gear IT?

Thanks
Adrian

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

62 mm

samsking

iTrader: (16)

Ok guys, I got an FGX about a month ago and have been running it on a small low to med traction carpet track and I am having tons of issues. I'm running pit shimizu grooved soft rears and grooved med. fronts and the car is an absolute handfull. It tractions rolls frequently and has tons of front wheel hop around sweeper but still is really pushy overall. It does not rotate well and just isn't fun to drive. I'm running the stock weight oil and I have played with rear springs and droop and nothing I do gets rid of the wheel hop. Whats a good carpet set up for this car before I give up all hope and sell it.

MunchMunch

iTrader: (8)

All, have my 1/2 built FGX up for sale. I'm racing 1/8 E-buggy off-road, no time or cash for the F1, at least not right now. Check it out.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...p-ups-new.html

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Revised 5/1/2012

FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.

* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.

Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.

For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)

3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached Gear set
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers Damper Spring Set
Front spring set Front Spring Set

3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount Rear Bulkhead w/Motor Mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero) Rear Diff Bearing Carriers
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*) 0* toe plate 1* toe plate 2* toe plate 3* toe plate
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3* 1* camber plate 2* camber plate 3* camber plate
Full turnbuckle set Titanium Turnbuckle Set

3Racing Spares:
Full A arm set
Steering knuckle set
King Pin set

Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.

Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
The Reedy Sonic - It will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance and will be able run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell basically needs the left rear post moved forward and the upper deck may need to me modified slightly depending on your motor choice.

Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)
Delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.*

Tires:
Shimizu 561 front and 565 rear
HPI and F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.

Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.


Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

What is your current setup? Rear sway bar? Shock oil and springs on the rear dampers? Are the damper pistons centered and the cantilever links adjusted properly? Front camber and spring? Weighted camber plate?

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

Traction roll and understeer at the same time?

here is my setup that worked on carpet.

Front:
Shimizu soft grooved tires.
-1º camber
0.5º toeout
5mm ride height
Sauce inner 80% (10 min with SXT 3.0)

Rear:
Shimizu soft grooved tires.
-1.5º camber
1º toe in
stiff swaybar (5 dots)
stiff springs (blue)
5.5 mm ride height.
Sauce 100% (10 min with SXT 3.0)

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

+ YouTube Video

http://youtu.be/nT8L_yAIchc


This is the first time I ran the FGX on the asphalt track and it worked better than my f104v2.

I had soft rear springs and no sway bars.
I will raise the ride height little.
I have to remember to brake with steering pointed straight- I let go of the steering when braking and it's been working great.