3 racing new F1
#2116
Tech Regular
I thought it would make a great candidate for a RWD Trans Am car. The wheels fit straight away. The wheel base would need to be shortened to 10" to fit all the HPI bodies and a front shock tower mount would be required. One of their other models might work better as a base platform.
I think best version would be combinating Sakura S fontend and FGX's rear end (or some new rear bulkheads with FGX's gears and suspension parts)
#2119
Tech Master
I think most of the trans am bodies are 200 with the hpi mustang coupe and fastback fitting the tightest of the ones I have tried. I could be wrong though.
#2120
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I have the Mustang GT on my old TC3 and its right at 206 at the rear. It's pretty close to rubbing in the rear width wise. I had to cut the wheel wells further back because wheelbase is fixed on the TC3, not much movement there at all. I think the Camaro is actually listed at 210 rear 205 front with the rims on it. I'm getting a J71 because the wheelbase is right for the TC3. You know, because the TC3 is so wheel base adjustable. So temped to try the Zero S for TA.
#2122
Tech Master
#2126
Well, to preload on the shocks always influences the dampering of the car. I depends on what conditions you have. If your spring is loose and the damper shaft is not fully pulled then you could go with my solution.
But I guess in your case liljohn1064's solution did it
But I guess in your case liljohn1064's solution did it
#2127
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Had the same problem with mine too. Took everything apart and started measuring/checking. For me the tweak was caused where the plastic bulkhead screws into the side of the aluminum motor mount (when looking at the pinoin gear the screws fore and aft of the pinion). Tried to file it flat but could not get it perfect. So I just run those screws a quarter turn loose so they will not introduce tweak into the chassis. Also, the turnbuckle that bridges the gap between the top deck and rear end was too short actually causing the rear of the chassis to curve up.
Once I got those two problems sorted out the car is so much better to drive.
Once I got those two problems sorted out the car is so much better to drive.
#2128
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Had the same problem with mine too. Took everything apart and started measuring/checking. For me the tweak was caused where the plastic bulkhead screws into the side of the aluminum motor mount (when looking at the pinoin gear the screws fore and aft of the pinion). Tried to file it flat but could not get it perfect. So I just run those screws a quarter turn loose so they will not introduce tweak into the chassis. Also, the turnbuckle that bridges the gap between the top deck and rear end was too short actually causing the rear of the chassis to curve up.
Once I got those two problems sorted out the car is so much better to drive.
Once I got those two problems sorted out the car is so much better to drive.
#2129
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
So to tune the rear end I:
1. Take off the damper springs.
2. Set the car on a block or ride height gauge at the desired ride height.
3. Estimate where the piston is in the shock body. (or open them up and mark the outside with a sharpie)
4. Center the piston.
4A. Measure the overall length of the damper from ball cup to ball cup and save this for future use.
5. Adjust the lower links until the wheels firmly touch the ground on both sides.
6. Put the springs back on.
7. Adjust the preload on the shocks to gain back the desired ride height.
Do this process once, then do steps 5 through 7 with the piston centered (4A) if you need to change ride height drastically.
My shocks are build to Zero rebound. Preload is NOT the same on both sides. The motor mount damper requires a couple collar turns more of preload to get the ride height the same on both sides. I'm measuring ride height at the center rear for overall and just in front of both rear tires on each side to make sure its the same on both sides.
Last edited by liljohn1064; 03-23-2012 at 08:59 AM. Reason: future use
#2130
Tech Master
iTrader: (51)
Car pulling one direction under acceleration or braking
This question was asked a few times over the last few pages and I am finally able to take some time to answer it.
If your car pulls to one side under acceleration or breaking there are two main causes:
Rear suspension linkage setup:
One of the most important setup tips on this car is to make sure all your linkage and arms are perfectly symmetrical. The droop screws on the lower arms should be set identical. Then make sure all shock linkage is the same. Pop the rear shocks off and lift the rear end. The two balls on the damper arms should be perfectly symmetrical. If one is a little ahead of the other this will cause the car to pull. After everything is equal put the shocks back on and equally set the springs. Check ride height from left to right and slightly adjust springs to equal out. (This is assuming that you have made sure your chassis is not tweaked).
Chassis tweak:
If you run the stock chassis and upper deck, most crashes will cause a tweak. The plastics top deck and the very flexible FRP chassis get and hold a tweak very easily. Before Mark Day at Timezone switched to my chassis he was checking tweak every run. Loosen all top deck screws, put the chassis on a flat surface and tighten everything back down.
Of course always make sure camber, caster, toe, front springs, front droop, etc. are all the same left to right as well.
Troy
If your car pulls to one side under acceleration or breaking there are two main causes:
Rear suspension linkage setup:
One of the most important setup tips on this car is to make sure all your linkage and arms are perfectly symmetrical. The droop screws on the lower arms should be set identical. Then make sure all shock linkage is the same. Pop the rear shocks off and lift the rear end. The two balls on the damper arms should be perfectly symmetrical. If one is a little ahead of the other this will cause the car to pull. After everything is equal put the shocks back on and equally set the springs. Check ride height from left to right and slightly adjust springs to equal out. (This is assuming that you have made sure your chassis is not tweaked).
Chassis tweak:
If you run the stock chassis and upper deck, most crashes will cause a tweak. The plastics top deck and the very flexible FRP chassis get and hold a tweak very easily. Before Mark Day at Timezone switched to my chassis he was checking tweak every run. Loosen all top deck screws, put the chassis on a flat surface and tighten everything back down.
Of course always make sure camber, caster, toe, front springs, front droop, etc. are all the same left to right as well.
Troy