Team Corally RDX Touring Car
02-28-2006, 06:55 PM
#5987
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Have you guys found that with the specialized chassis and top deck, you are overwight for ROAR foam T2? ....I'm about 13 grams over in stock and 33 grams over in 19T ...without adding any weight whatsoever.
02-28-2006, 06:59 PM
#5988
just use the weight to carry more entry speed which means more corner speed, which means you go faster 
02-28-2006, 07:03 PM
#5989
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Brit, you'll see as soon as you start building 
The guys on the T2 forum can go back to their undying lovefest for their Xray baby.
02-28-2006, 07:24 PM
#5990
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Have you guys found that with the specialized chassis and top deck, you are overwight for ROAR foam T2? ....I'm about 13 grams over in stock and 33 grams over in 19T ...without adding any weight whatsoever.
Jeff
02-28-2006, 07:30 PM
#5991
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE
Hey Jeff, 0 degree caster blocks on your car? wouldn't that make the car seem a little darty? I run 6 on my asphalt car, with a spool and 1 degree rear toe in on the rear. I'm thinking of trying a sway bar in the front to see if I can get the front to stop sliding because of the spool, as I believe the front inside tire is lifting up too much. I have about 1 mm of droop in the front and 2 in the rear. I also have no couplers in the front (very narrow front). Let me know what you think about the sway bar. Thanks,
Kenny
Kenny
Well, first off......... I never knew that "darty" and "asphalt" could be associated with each other. Remember, I run modified so a 7 turn might yield a different feel than 19T or Stock. You may need to stiffen up the front springs.
The 0 deg blocks increases initial steering, helps with low speed steering and makes the car feel more "direct" on steering inputs. I have been a fan of it for a while. But I guess I might be weird.
Jeff
02-28-2006, 07:40 PM
#5993
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Ah ..ok so it's "normal" ...I've only ran rubber tire big races before, so I was used to having to add weight in order to make minimum.
The 4mm chassis is heavy, couple that with the thicker topdeck. Then you throw into the mix the different motors and their weights.
19T being the heaviest cuz of the most arm material and wire. Then Stock with a lot of wire but no arm material. Then you have the Mods with standard arms and no wire. haha.
Jeff
02-28-2006, 07:48 PM
#5995
Yep, having to add a brick on the chassis behind the battery to balance the car really sucks. That darn motor sticks out too far. Hope Corally hurrys up with a new left rear bulkhead that moves the motor in farther. I can't even imagine how bad the balance would be when adding a motor guard/fan unit.
02-28-2006, 07:50 PM
#5996
I posted over on the On Road Rules discussion thread posing the question how the difference in weight was figured out for the ROAR T2 minimums:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...7336&p=2173229
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...7336&p=2173229
02-28-2006, 07:55 PM
#5997
Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
Yep, having to add a brick on the chassis behind the battery to balance the car really sucks. That darn motor sticks out too far. Hope Corally hurrys up with a new left rear bulkhead that moves the motor in farther. I can't even imagine how bad the balance would be when adding a motor guard/fan unit.
02-28-2006, 08:03 PM
#5998
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
Sure did, TQ and win too. The Car was diaaaaled. With a CO27 stock motor I rolled out at 26.88mm, but for a Monster I would run about 25.2mm. If the motor fades... trim the trailing edge of the brush a touch.
-Korey
-Korey
02-28-2006, 10:27 PM
#6000
are these the low roll centre blocks for carpet, or are there ULTRA low blocks...
http://www.corallyusa.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=COR79121!COR
http://www.corallyusa.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=COR79121!COR