Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

i dont know if they are any better, but either Dynamite or Duratrax has some 3x6 bearings that have a teflon seal. i got some as a backup after one of my originals came apart...

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

If I didn't hit anything, the plastic blocks would suffice. :-) Apparently I'm not the only person that's had problems with these bearings, since SRC felt compelled to offer aftermarket bushings for longer life. Hopefully the next version of the aluminum knuckles are machined without the need for a bearing or a bushing. Heck, I'd even be happy to be able to replace the single bearing that broke, and deal with the craptacity of the remaining three.

Don't get me wrong, I love the RDX, and Corally USA has been nothing but wonderful. But I'm going to call a spade a spade. It sucks there are bearings there in the first place, since that undoubtedly drives up the price, and doesn't seem to offer much advantage. It sucks that all four bearings have managed to almost completely lock up (and one came out in pieces) in a matter of months. And is sucks that the bushings to replace the bearings, as counterintuitive as that sounds, are the most expensive bushings in modern history.

Anyway, sorry for the troll, it's just extremely frustrating.

Jeff Brown

I went back to the plastic knuckles after Snowbirds and only broken a couple since then. I know what you mean about the bearings and such. I just found it easier (cheaper) to carry around the plastic knuckles.

Between the Hard Foam Bumper and possibly a Kydex bumper as well you shouldn't really have any problems.

Jeff

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Ya, I've been doing the same for about a month now, and only broken one on a very light tap when rounding a corner a little too close. I rather like the lack of slop with the plastic too, so maybe I'll just do the same. Ah, Jeff, always the voice of reason with Corally stuff. :-D

Are the plastic knuckles available in different hardness levels? The one I broke last week was stock, and I noticed the material for the replacement appears more dull, kind of like hard arms vs. softer arms.

Jeff Brown

There are not different blocks. I think the material mix might have changed perhaps. Not sure.

Jeff

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

I am running the plastic knuckles. I prefer them to the aluminum for weight, cost and the bearing issues. I dont think theres a real problem with breaking them once you put the hard bumper on. No more than on a Tc# or Losi, etc. ON the new steering knuckle material-I have noticed it too. its a little more rubbery feeling-but still very stiff. Shoud be the ticket vs. the brittle, but stiff nylon or whatever they used before.

Also-Preston-now you know better!!! If youo tell someone to stop hitting stuff-then might as well tell them to stop trying to be fast. I clobber boards the hardest on my best possible laps-trying to Tighten-It Up!!!!

Another reason you might be snapping the occasional arm or steering knuckle ids if your axles stick out from the wheels. They catch the boards-nothing can withstand that!! It would be wise to take a little time with a file, dremel or cut-off wheel and only have enough axle to be flush with the end of the nut.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I must have done something wrong with my kydex bumper. It was pretty close (as close as I'm capable of, anyway) to the template, but it would bend in on impact and chunk the center of my foams. The Rubberneck bumper is great though.

I know it's been mentioned before, but does SRC have any plans on releasing a lowered shock tower? Trying to drill and cut one by hand didn't work for me, I was off by a few MM which tweaked the car. I could probably do it with access to a drill press, but I'd much rather buy one I know has been done right.

Brandon Melton

iTrader: (7)

One thing I did notice with a batch I got is you need to use a .126 or 1/8in reamer for the holes in the top and bottom. The holes were very snug and bound up the steering. I only had the issue with two sets, so hopefully they aren't in circulation anymore, as my new kit was perfect. Just FYI if anyone noticed a bind in their steering when replacing a knuckle.

Hobbit

Hi, I've just finished building my RDX and did my first race with it last night.
My Barracuda was stable, but this RDX is in another league. I love it. Funny thing is that somebody commented that it looked bit slow in practice...but my racing lap times said different.
I also found that the holes in the kit knuckles are VERY tight. I actually changed them for a new pair which were fine.
I run stock and use (at the moment) Vega quad motors. The motor that I ran last Sunday in my 'Cuda seemed to be 'so' much quicker in the RDX yet the Cuda's drive train appears MUCH more free.
Any set-up tips for running the car in stock on rubber would be most helpful.

stegger

Hobbit i know what you mean about it feeling slow.. It just proves how stable it is i think. I ran last sunday at Ellesmere port winter league and qualified 5th in the B main. The car had not turned a wheel untill that morning so i was well chuffed. Look on the Corally site for the setups...

Jeff Brown

Yeah, some of the newest ones are tighter. You actually want a 3mm reamer as that is the size of the kingpin. 1/8th is too big as 3mm is .118" so that is .007" of slop. The knuckles wear out in like 3 runs pretty badly.

You can even get a .1185" reamer for a perfect feel.

Jeff

subman

iTrader: (4)

Looking for a carpet spec RDX anyone know who's got the best price now?
Thanks

Jeff Brown

I would contact these guys..........

Mid Canada R/C Racing
Winnipeg, Manitoba - Canada
www.midcanadarcautoracing.com
TEL: 204.444.4230

subman

iTrader: (4)

thanks but I am in the states right now so I am looking for an american dealer.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Syndrome

PM sent

Steve