Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I actually just did that to my car today. It's pretty dialed, now I'm more apt to make roll center changes during a race day lol.

-Korey

gibbous

iTrader: (10)

I'm just about done. I just need to mount electronics.

Is anyone else noticing how close the little plastic sway bar link is to the CVDs in the front? I noticed you could actually run it with the link behind the CVDs instead of in front of them (rotate the mounts on the arms, rotate the little plastic mounts on the top deck, mount the sway bar behind instead of in front of them). This would give it plenty of CVD clearance and actually make it easier to get to the ball ends if you want to try adjusting them. Seems like a win-win, unless I'm missing something one of you more experienced drivers know about...?

To all who are still building: In addition to mounting the sway bar hardware on the arms ahead of time, I would also mount the sway bar hardware on the top deck before installing the bell cranks for the steering rack. Getting those little nuts in after these are installed is a little bit of a challenge. Do-able, but you can save yourself time if you heed my warning.

Also, I seem to remember it being posted, but I couldn't find it in a search: I've got a lot of slop in the front one-way. Seems to wiggle a good two mm left to right. Anyone else experience the same? I think it will run fine with it, but I thought I'd check....

The other thing I'm really confused with is those body mounts. If I stay with the stock mounts, will I be securing my body with those finger-mauling little plastic nuts instead of the usual pins? I mean it probably works fine, but it's a little unsightly, and a little less convenient, isn't it?

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

Actually, that's the standard way to mount the front sway... behind the front CVD's. I used a method Toso uses, use the rear sway as front, and mount it so the linkage is now in front of the CVD's instead. Anyone correct me if that's not the way Chris runs his.

I just got my 1-way today, mine too has tons of side to side play and I couldn't find shims appropriate enough to shim it. Also the 1-way isn't as smooth as I would like and it does make noise when it's being bench tested, worked fine on the track though, not sure if that's normal.

Regarding the front sway mount "nuts". I put them in before I even put the top deck on the car.

Dom

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

i put the swaybar on per the instructions, behind the drives, myself. there is enough room on the bar to move the ends far enough to clear the cvd bone.

probably doesnt make a lot of difference either way, but seems Toso has always liked the forward mounts on most of the cars he has run.

and i agree... its easier to install those nuts either before assembly, or if after, just pull off the top deck... only 4 screws.

my one-way has never been supersmooth on the bench, but works perfect on the track. using it primarily, due to asphalt running. need to get the diff reassembled for some carpet runs before Vegas... any one else here going?

Geforcy

I saw those pictures of the 3.9mm chassis. Where is that available. It isn't original Corally product right? I didn't hear Constant Paul was talking about this chassis but another chassis (forgot how thick it was).

Where can I order it all all those other non Corally hop-ups?

Also how do you guys get those red alluminium stuff on your cars? I guess it's a special hop-up too?

Thanks already for helping me .

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

Actually the 3.9mm chassis, you can get it thru Corally USA.

I think the pic of that red RDX, the guy just took it to an anodizing shop to get it anodized.

Dom

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

I need to see some pics of you guys cars. This is THEE tightest layout for electronics on any of the cars I have. I gotta use some gray matter on this one. It's 5:30 in the morn and I haven't hit the sack yet so I'll post some pics and questions when I get up (A BIG YAWN) in a few hours. I took my sweet time on this one... -JB

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Yeah, I can see why they got rid of them on the Assasin... BRUTAL... -JB

gibbous

iTrader: (10)

The manual illustration shows the mounting hardware on the arms pointing forward. Which puts the link in front of the CVDs. That's the way I built them. I don't know where you guys are seeing that behind the CVD's are "standard," but I'll happily run them that way too.

I will be very interested in layouts as well. I plan to mount a V12, a Spektrum receiver, and some kind of servo that I haven't decided on yet...I might just use my old Airtronics, or get a new digi one.

mindrev

Depents on the electronics. With my PCM futaba receiver this layout was not possible.
Mike

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

If you look at Page 24 again on the manual, the links are behind it. And in order for the front sway to have zero hangups with the steering mechanism, use the rear sway on the front and put the links in front of the cvd's.

Dom

gibbous

iTrader: (10)

I am so very glad for digital cameras!

Looks like one of us has a different version of the manual! I am not going crazy!

gibbous

iTrader: (10)

I kinda like that mid-motor Assasin layout. Anyone get some laps on that car?

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

Wow, that is WAY bizarre! I actually captured that from the Manual PDF on the Corally USA site...

Weird.

Dom

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Hey Dom,

The one way free's up a bit after use. They still dont spin stupid free like some others do, but you dont feel that on the track at all. I've been using that serpent one way oil and it works good. also, get on msn, need to tell you somethin.

-Korey