johnny55

iTrader: (8)

lol Good point. Not only that but the place ships from Hong Kong!

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

Orange aluminum camber links, aluminum shock retainers, shock cap with holes? I still can't get zero rebound with the holes in the caps.

I'll still be waiting for a better designed shock like the Tamiyas. Although, I'm sure many have already purchased the other brand shocks. Why be stubborn Xray? I'll buy them as an upgrade.

StevenOlsen

have you tryed xrays alu shocks ? i build both the plastic and the alu with 0-10% rebound

Three

With all the trouble you have, maybe you should take up RC boats.......

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

I think there are many that agree the shocks are much harder to get the desired rebound than others designs. They are a pain in the @ss. How many people have to complain about them? It's bad business to tell customers they are wrong and on top of it promise a video that never came. Sorry, but I speak the truth.

HenBeav

iTrader: (13)

I've been going to Omaha for every Sunday points race this winter season, everyone up there knows i run Xray and will ask me questions, but I have yet to meet you, or if i have you have never asked for any help. (FYI I will miss the race next weekend for the 13.5 race in albuqueree) Maybe instead of posting all your problems on here you should come race and get some help.

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

I thought that RCKnight was Chicago Kenji?

HenBeav

iTrader: (13)

I thought he was from omaha unless there are 2 with different spellings or whatever.

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

From what I have found you can not get zero rebound on the shock. What I consider Zero rebound is where you compress the shock and it sits there for a second then slowly creeps out 1/4 inch or so. That is zero rebound as there is not enough pressure to change the feel of the shock shaft when you push it in. A shock with rebound will feel stiffer at the bottom of compression and then "pop" right back out to a point. I believe this is what Paul considers zero rebound as well. Maybe someone else has a better method to achieve a truly dead shock.

Ive been to a LOT of races everywhere and can only remember of 1 time I have seen someone with shocks on their car other than Xray shocks. Seen a few pics on here but never at the track other than the 1 time.

EA

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

thank you that explains a lot and helps.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

yes shock cap had hole !

LowBoost

iTrader: (63)

Guys...I started my build and have two questions.

1) Manual says to use the 3.5mm plastic caps only with Alu ball diffs or multi-diff. So it means I should use it for the rear dog-bones or don't use them at all?



2) Manual indicates to install composite shim 3.6.2mm while installing steering linkage. Based on the work-flow of the build, I have no more composite shims.
I have a huge table I use for projects, etc and have each bag opened and identified...carefully going through each along my build.

Is this an optional tip I can go ahead without it for now or is this a must install shim?
I have carefully reviewed the entire build.. in case I misplaced parts or used wrong parts... but it seems I am just missing the two shims.

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

For the rear, you will need to use the plastic caps. For the front, you can go ahead with the build without the shims, but you'll want to purchase some 1mm and 2mm shims as these will be a tuning aide for the car's bumpsteer. The 2mm shims are the initial setting and works really well for most situations.

LowBoost

iTrader: (63)

Thanks... I'll order the shims and install the caps in the rear

Bonadona

iTrader: (27)

Any 1 or 2mm shims will work for the steering links, they do not have to be composite. They are a great tuning aid for more or less steering. Thicker shim = more steering according to Martin Hudy.