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Old 06-13-2013, 07:23 AM   #5476
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Ah good questions. At RROC Marc and Viktor both told me they always run the grub screw, and Marc said that the main difference is that it gives more steering

The chassis do feel different, the soft obviously has a bit more grip and I find it has more low speed steering while the hard carries more corner speed and is easier to free up. The set up should not change too much between the two, but Marc told me at RROC he was running more ackerman shims with the soft chassis compared to the hard, 5mm with soft vs 4mm with hard.

At the moment I'm running the hard
Craig are you running the hard chassis on carpet by chance?
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:46 PM   #5477
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Do the 8mm grub screws fit? Do I just screw in and put some locktite?

So many flex options !! Has the hard been working for you on low grip ashpalt? So with those ackerman settings, have found the hard chassis has less overall steering?
Are there any other settings that have become standard with the raceberry?
Did they give any tips on a carpet setup? The AOC should be interesting hahah
Btw what are you using for centerline battery stops?
I think 8mm is too long, I used 6mm

Marc hadn't run the raceberry on carpet, but he did say he thought the hard chassis would be best. I think they are still testing a lot with setup but Marc's RROC settings should be a good baseline for asphalt - just run lighter shock oil for lower grip

I just have a 10g weight stuck to the chassis as a battery stop

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Craig are you running the hard chassis on carpet by chance?
Not yet but as narcotiks mentioned we have the AOC race next month on carpet so that will be interesting
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:21 PM   #5478
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You guys prob have an answer for my question, but I see that everyone is running HPI silver and blue springs and should I run blues in front and silvers in back, also why hpi not tamiya's springs, and would the RIDE springs work as well. Ill be running on medium traction asphalt track with 40wt in front and 35wt in rear with either 32's or 36 SWEEP tires in 17.5 class.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:26 PM   #5479
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Also what's a good starting FD in 17.5 non boost, I was thinking 113 and 45 or 96 and what pinion unless you guys have some suggestions.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:43 PM   #5480
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Also what's a good starting FD in 17.5 non boost, I was thinking 113 and 45 or 96 and what pinion unless you guys have some suggestions.
I run 90/42 (4.1) Team Powers Plutonium 17.5 non boost
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:11 PM   #5481
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Also what's a good starting FD in 17.5 non boost, I was thinking 113 and 45 or 96 and what pinion unless you guys have some suggestions.
I run 96 spur and 49 pinion in my raceberry 417. Probably about 3.8~3.9ish FDR
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:40 PM   #5482
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Any suggestions on my other question about springs?
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:53 PM   #5483
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Any suggestions on my other question about springs?
HPI Silver or ride red all around for med grip asphalt and same oil front and rear
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:28 PM   #5484
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Ok thanks. I was thinking about getting Reflex Racing's pistons 1.0,1.0,1.5 are the size of the holes and there 10mm or should I just stick with the TRF 3 hole pistons?
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:15 PM   #5485
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TRF
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:55 PM   #5486
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Need some help. I am looking to upgrade from my ta06.pro to a carbon fiber race chassis. I primarily race on an asphalt parking lot, med grip and want to start running on a prepared asphalt track. I am looking at the trf 416,.trf417 and the new ta06 ms.
If any of you can give any advice and opinions on durability, ease to repair, and performance out of the box, without lots of hop ups. Your personal experance on how both drive would be nice too. I will primarily be in the 17.5 class.
I have a m05 all done up and don't want to spend that much again. A pro level car shouldn't need an additional 200 in parts to make it fast and reliable.
Thanks
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:57 PM   #5487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narcotiks View Post
Do the 8mm grub screws fit? Do I just screw in and put some locktite?

So many flex options !! Has the hard been working for you on low grip ashpalt? So with those ackerman settings, have found the hard chassis has less overall steering?
Are there any other settings that have become standard with the raceberry?
Did they give any tips on a carpet setup? The AOC should be interesting hahah
Btw what are you using for centerline battery stops?
Some things that have become "standard" on the raceberry in terms of setup from what I have tested and seen, 2mm rear wheelbase (Due to motor being moved fwd), XA-E rear blocks, C-D front blocks with Hole 2 on the arms, 4-5mm ackerman, and sometimes a slightly longer front wheelbase (1mm). The rest of the setup should be similar!

I also use weights as a centre battery stop, but also use a 4mm shim with a button head screw on my servo mount.
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:12 PM   #5488
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What do you mean by hole 2 on the arms?
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:17 PM   #5489
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Some things that have become "standard" on the raceberry in terms of setup from what I have tested and seen, 2mm rear wheelbase (Due to motor being moved fwd), XA-E rear blocks, C-D front blocks with Hole 2 on the arms, 4-5mm ackerman, and sometimes a slightly longer front wheelbase (1mm). The rest of the setup should be similar!

I also use weights as a centre battery stop, but also use a 4mm shim with a button head screw on my servo mount.
Thanks for the info dude
What springs have you tested/seen that have been working well, other than HPI silvers all round?
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What do you mean by hole 2 on the arms?
The lower shock mounting position on the suspension arm, from hole 1 to hole 2. Beware hole 2 isn't on the same side of the arm as hole 1.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:58 PM   #5490
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Thanks for the info dude
What springs have you tested/seen that have been working well, other than HPI silvers all round?

The lower shock mounting position on the suspension arm, from hole 1 to hole 2. Beware hole 2 isn't on the same side of the arm as hole 1.
Been Using Yokomo Pink/Blue or Blue/Blue. Also ride Blue or Red on some tracks. Correct on the arms
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