liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Excellent! I'd rather start with a known good set all the way around than wait for something to break. As I have decided this is my next chassis and have not yet ordered one, I really appreciate this information.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the info! I do like to have one of everything on hand just in case.

Rick Hohwart

I can't believe that AE customer service would sweat a few screws. If you need any parts you can PM me. That goes for anyone that has problems.

It is possible that you could get a bad part. I've built six TC6 kits so far and had no problems with any of them. But a defective part is a defective part and when you bought it or proof that you bought it should not matter.

Screws can vary that is why they can sometimes not be flush. The chassis is thin and I have yet to see a chassis not countersunk enough. I do not recommend countersinking them deeper.

It is no secret that the quality could be better but this would mean a premium price. If you are willing to work with the car you save a lot of money up front and you don't over pay for spares. Plus the car is as good as any in my opinion.

I have toyed around with the thought of creating some setup videos to post on the AE website. Is this something that you uys would be interested in?

Speaking of bearings, AE will release complete ceramic bearing sets for the driveline and individually in pairs. I've been using them in my 13.5?17.5 car and they really do seem to make a difference. Plus they last a long time.

WillS

iTrader: (32)

I have been building cars for 15yrs. Other than the normal epoxy of graphite my kit was together in a few hours time. No problems other than those darn plastic shims for arms but solved with the 12r5 shims. Otherwise great kit. Just don't understand how so many faulty kits are out there. Love my tc6 and wouldn't race anything else, ok well maybe the next kit but only if its putting down serious improvements over this one. Btw when is that ae gear diff coming out going to need it for carpet season.

scoyle

Rick, I have been building kits for years but there is always something to learn from the top guys... Chris Grainger, here in the UK did some videos for the Schumacher Mi4 including shocks, diffs etc. so that sort of thing would be great for the associated. Balancing roll bars and doing droop is another good one for non-expert builders out there.

trailblazer04

iTrader: (20)

The issues are puzzling that is for sure. There seems to be an equal number of people that say their kits went together without any issues as there are those that are having the problems I am having. My LHS supplied me with a copy of my receipt so Associated is sending out the parts no charge, hopefully the rest of this kit goes together without any further problems.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

please do make some "how to build and setup" videos....that would be great..

As far as the TC6 screws...just toss any screws which do not have the stamping on them....
if it does not have the stamping the screw is guaranteed to strip.
I've built 4 TC6 kits all the same when it came to the screws (won't even talk about other issues).
order a few bags from McMaster...probably spend $15 bucks and you'll have enough screws to last a RC lifetime.

olly986

One that would always help is shock absorbers,many people ask for these regularly then maybe little videos of setups like droop, shocks geometry, ride height and tips on improving car building.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

Rick: Please do develope and add setup or other valued information for this kit to the site. +1 on willing to learn, as I have no experience with Onroad platforms and very interested. TC6 will arrive tomorrow and is first onroad kit I have owned. Thank you for sharing your expertise.

ABN Hoosier

iTrader: (20)

Jason, heres mine Bro. just got her finished. Just waiting on the chassis cover tape stuff. I ordered it from here: http://blackbeardrc.com/store/ Got that link from somewhere. Hope I can get to the track. My kid has football, will try. But dang, this thing is SWEEEEEET!

Chaz955i

iTrader: (5)

I don't buy that there are that many faulty kits. There are almost 4000 posts in the TC6 thread. How many unique user profiles had a bad kit and I'm not talking about missing a screw. I don't doubt that overall fit and finish aren't up to x-ray standards but neither is the price. I do think if you take the time to build the car and work through a few small issues that might come up you will have a great racer that is very inexpensive to operate. For the people unfortunate enough to get a kit missing parts or with faulty parts it sounds like Associated are willing to take care of the issue. Frustrating but they will end up with a really good car. Can Associated do better with their quality control and at least make sure the kits are complete? They sure can and hopefully they are taking note.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

ABN: man that looks awesome and nice paint! Will try to get mine built in time for Saturday's race, but may be using a borrowed platform till I can get mine built properly this weekend without the rush. I'm realy looking forward to joining yall on the Onroad and having fun with it. Can't wait to see you race your new car this Sat. See you out out there.

hams

I think that would be great. I would find it interesting to see taking one of the asphalt and carpet setup sheets and walk through changing the car setup from the default manual to one based off of the setup sheets.

Then maybe something that points out the main setup variations from a base setup?

I've been looking for some resources on car setup and a lot of what I find talks about a setting like camber or ant-dive and then says what effect it has, however I'd rather have something that says "i want to have the car easy-to-handle and setup for carpet" and then point then 3-5 items i should try setting in order of importance.

Oh and belt tension. I tried the settings listed on one of your setup sheets and Olly's and they seem really loose. So either I'm doing it wrong, or I need a video demonstrating what "good" tension looks like.

kevin

olly986

HAMS the long belt feel quite loose, but if it was "too" loose your belt would jump, the important here is that belt is not tight to put pressure on your drive train, rear belt, because it is shorter will feel tighter.

olly986

ABN HOOSIER, you can remove the 2 small button head top screws on spur gear level, this will give you more flex on chassis if needed.

and I find that a servo post spacer screwed on top plate on one side is perfect to put the aerial tube through the other side, without touching belt.

You can also run the transponder wire parallele to the front bulkhead, a little bit of tape on chassis to secure it and voila!

Where did you get these wheels?