Losi XXX-S
Originally Posted by POOKYT
I dunno. If you do that then you will need to go to a softer spring like on the JRXS. Could be cool though. I would have to make sure they fit the XXXS arms as well.
Brant
Brant
Originally Posted by Slow4dr
There's not enough hours in my one day off to search for the answer in this thread...
What are good places to start for both motors? I'm running an Epic stock motor (the ROAR legal version) and either a Chameleon or a Reedy 19T.
What are good places to start for both motors? I'm running an Epic stock motor (the ROAR legal version) and either a Chameleon or a Reedy 19T.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Is the XXX-S still competitive. It is funny all of a sudden after the JRXS comes out nobody talks about the XXX-S anymore....
Tech Master
iTrader: (50)
works good for me first time ever racing on road and im 3rd in the points series im running
Originally Posted by JLMG1971
Is the XXX-S still competitive. It is funny all of a sudden after the JRXS comes out nobody talks about the XXX-S anymore....
And that sealed XXX-S drivetrain still has a place in rc racing.
XXX-S HD Belt install
Hi all
I am about to install the new HD belt in my carpet car but was wondering if there are any special hints or steps in getting the old belt out first.
It seems the steering bellcrank cover is in the way of an easy install.
Thanks
I am about to install the new HD belt in my carpet car but was wondering if there are any special hints or steps in getting the old belt out first.
It seems the steering bellcrank cover is in the way of an easy install.
Thanks
Originally Posted by rinkrat99
Hi all
I am about to install the new HD belt in my carpet car but was wondering if there are any special hints or steps in getting the old belt out first.
It seems the steering bellcrank cover is in the way of an easy install.
Thanks
I am about to install the new HD belt in my carpet car but was wondering if there are any special hints or steps in getting the old belt out first.
It seems the steering bellcrank cover is in the way of an easy install.
Thanks
To take apart...
1) Remove spur gear and idler arm
2) Remove bottom cover
3) Disconnect steering link and pull tunnel out from bottom
4) Remove both diff covers and diffs
To put together...
(Reverse above steps and might as well rebuild diffs while they are out)
Bill
Could someone please tell me what the XXX-S spur gear colour codes are.
Thanks
Sean
Thanks
Sean
Bump
Originally Posted by Team Duratrax
Could someone please tell me what the XXX-S spur gear colour codes are.
Thanks
Sean
Thanks
Sean
LOSA3943 128T 64P Kevlar Spur/Pulley: XXX-S Neutral (tan)
LOSA3950 108T 64P Spur w/Drive Pulley:XXX-S (Yellow...I think)
LOSA3952 118T 64P Spur w/Drive Pulley:XXX-S Orange
LOSA3954 128T 64P Spur w/Drive Pulley:XXX-S Blue
Only 64Ps I ever used were the Kevlar and blue (both 128T). Never used 48P gears.
Bill
Tech Regular
48DP:
Orange - 90t
Fluo Yellow - 88t
Red/Pinkish - 86t
Hope that helps
Oli
Orange - 90t
Fluo Yellow - 88t
Red/Pinkish - 86t
Hope that helps
Oli
Thanks boys!
Sean
Sean
Just looking for some honest feedback with the carpet season just around the corner here in New England. I currently run a XXX-S G+ and I am mid-pack amongst 50 or so very competitive stock class racers.
I am debating running something else for the upcoming season as I continually hear that a guy like myself can shave considerable time off his laps swithing to an Xray or RDX, etc.
Is there any validity to these statements? Anyone out there run an Xray, RDX, etc. back to back with there XXX-S?
I am debating running something else for the upcoming season as I continually hear that a guy like myself can shave considerable time off his laps swithing to an Xray or RDX, etc.
Is there any validity to these statements? Anyone out there run an Xray, RDX, etc. back to back with there XXX-S?
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
I race my XXX-S G+ head to head with X-Ray's, the new Yokomo belt drive, etc...
There are two answers to your question for me...
When the local club runs their normal weekly races, there isn't any "tech" to speak of, and so no scales to weigh the cars -- under these conditions, i'm at a big disadvantage. Some of these guys are over 3 ounces lighter than I can get!
When the scales come out and tech is tougher (trophy races, etc.) I'm on a par with any of the other brands...
There are two answers to your question for me...
When the local club runs their normal weekly races, there isn't any "tech" to speak of, and so no scales to weigh the cars -- under these conditions, i'm at a big disadvantage. Some of these guys are over 3 ounces lighter than I can get!
When the scales come out and tech is tougher (trophy races, etc.) I'm on a par with any of the other brands...
well, this excactly what I run my xxx-sg+ on normal weekly race, this car surely need diet for club race where no scale rule...
I have some piece of alloy and 2.5 mm CF plates on my warehouse,
got the picture of losi yatabe proto.. some fine hour on Pro-E then carving them on CNC machining.. I will replicate Losi xxx-s proto back to live..
I have some piece of alloy and 2.5 mm CF plates on my warehouse,
got the picture of losi yatabe proto.. some fine hour on Pro-E then carving them on CNC machining.. I will replicate Losi xxx-s proto back to live..
Originally Posted by tfrahm
I race my XXX-S G+ head to head with X-Ray's, the new Yokomo belt drive, etc...
There are two answers to your question for me...
When the local club runs their normal weekly races, there isn't any "tech" to speak of, and so no scales to weigh the cars -- under these conditions, i'm at a big disadvantage. Some of these guys are over 3 ounces lighter than I can get!
When the scales come out and tech is tougher (trophy races, etc.) I'm on a par with any of the other brands...
There are two answers to your question for me...
When the local club runs their normal weekly races, there isn't any "tech" to speak of, and so no scales to weigh the cars -- under these conditions, i'm at a big disadvantage. Some of these guys are over 3 ounces lighter than I can get!
When the scales come out and tech is tougher (trophy races, etc.) I'm on a par with any of the other brands...