JLMG1971

iTrader: (1)

I just finished building my XXX-S G+, it looks like a great car, though there are a couple of things that were a bit dissapointing:
1. The spur gear is warped, and it rubs against the belt tensioner
2. The front right 4* block carrier has a bit more than 4*, in fact it is quite different than the left one.
I'll try to email Losi to see what they'll say about it, it is my first Losi so I don't know about their after sell service....

Simon K

I did use the tap.
However, I didn't receive the wrench I ordered so had to use the nasty little allen key in the kit. My soft little sausage fingers can only take so much
Also have to make sure the rest of the assembly is up to my standard too

Got to the track today, ran 2 and a bit laps and pulled the car to check the diffs.

Then it rained...........ARGHHHH!!!!

Those two laps showed some potential though, very easy car to drive fast. Yay. 10 double for now with a 9 single on the way...

jjmudd

iTrader: (5)

jlmg1971,
Make sure the bearing in the tensioner pully is fully seated. This could be what is causing your problem.

JLMG1971

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advise, I have check everything there, you can really see the spur is warped.....

JLMG1971

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know the P/N of the 128 tooth blue 64 pitch gear/pulley, I've looked through the Losi website but I cann't find it.
Also does anyone know if the A-Arms (front and rear) for the XXX-S are interchangeabla with the XXX-S G+? I'd like to buy spare A-arms for my G+ but prefer to buy plastic ones...
Something else, where can I find the Alum shock collars?
Thanks

NeO-pRo-3

JLMG I know the pinion gear for the BLUE spur 128th 64 pitch. I use that spur gear myself. The pinionis 36 th 64pitch. It's really fast on stock motors. A local Pro Driver gave me that information. (Brian Kinwald)

JeffC

iTrader: (5)

JLMG, I'm not sure on the part number... the first blue spur I bought was warped very bad also.

I think the front arms should be the same, but the rears are different. The G+ rear arms have 2 holes for the outer hinge pin (inner hole is for the new offset rear, outer for the old standard rear hubs). The original xxxs arms will only work if you use the older rear hubs.

ZER01

tufferwilde, I just built my new G+ but I didn't grab the top of the threads of the shock shaft with some wire cutters to thread on the shock ends like the manual says. I grabbed the very top of the shaft where the piston goes with some pliers to thread on the shock ends. This cannot hurt any performance of the shock and I didn't weaken the threads by cutting into the shaft to hold the shaft to thread on the shock ends, I beleive this is why you are snapping shock shafts right above the threads-that is if you're grabbing the top of threads with some wire cutters to thread on the shock ends, I don't know, I let you know how mine go.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

In two litterally mirror-image hits.. exactly the same.. I broke the shock eyelet on two different cars in the same day. The shock shaft itself is fine, but the A-arm on the one car, Castor block on the other, and both car's shock eyelet's were destroyed. They were both heck-uva hits.

Blakesrc

iTrader: (26)

I finally got to use my losi alpha last sunday and today and have some questions. Do any of you think it causes the car to be to twitchy with exesive steering response or have a lack of rear downforce? I switched to this body from the stock stratus and had a really hard time, today especially,getting rear traction on a smooth, untreated assphalt track. If you had the same impressions and switched to another body, what do you recomend?

Also, as I said, today I ran on a smooth sealed surface with lots of 180 switchbacks and had a problem all day with rear traction. The track temp was 88-100 and I tried everything from a Sorex 24-32 and when I pulled the car off the track the tires never showed any signs of heating up! It was like they just skated over the top the whole time. I ended up with this set up:

Full graphite car with diffs(not g+, stock roll center)

Front
60 weight (started with 50)
purple springs (started with greens)
thinest swaybar (started with none)

Rear
50 weight
silver springs
Shocks all the way in on the tower

Everything else is stock including Camber links except for the rear inner link I am on the number 2 hole.

Still could not get the car to hook up in the back, even tried traction compound (Wd40 and Paragon) which I never use. The car was so loose it looked and fealt like I was driving on ice. All the Tc3's were so hooked up in the back that I even saw some of them bouncing around turns. I didnt even think to try going up from the 0 degree rear hubs until after the race, would that have helped a lot?

Thanks, Blake.

JeffC

iTrader: (5)

I've been switching between the Losi Alfa, and the Protoform Stratus. The Alfa definately has more steering, feels a bit twitchy too. I really like the Alfa with rubber tires, car felt much more hooked up. With foam tires, I just went back to the Stratus. The car feels much smoother, and is easier to drive. The Alfa seems about half a tenth to 1 tenth a lap faster, but I'm much more consistant with the Stratus.

ausracer

is the losi alfa body ifmar legal. when we have the bigger competitions they seem to check the body more then anything. and that rear wing seems awfully high even when trimed.

tufferwilde

Gotta give the edge to the Alfa so far - I have tried MANY different styles of stratii - Protoform original stratus, 2.0, Trinity Aspahlt and Carpet stratus, Yokomo versions, Andy's versions - and even an HPI thrown in for the fun of it.

The Losi Alfa does seem to exibit a ton of steering... but to me - that is just fine!! The fact that the car is completely stable at high speeds is what sold me on the body. None of the wiggle that you get from a neutral body like the stratus.


Proudwinner -
Well, considering that I have built the Losi shocks using the side cutters to hold the shafts since I started running Losi's and have never broken a shaft on any car like the two on the G+ --> I am going to continue to blame a run of poor materials on the broken shafts. The fact of the matter is that the pressure required to hold the shaft sith a sie cutter doesn't even scratch the surface means that there's no possible way that method could damage the shafts.... Since the originals were replaced - none broken either!

Anyway - thats just my .02 on the issue!

Wilde

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Just to revisit this old story-at my track we broke another shock shaft and also two more shock ball ends. All on good-A-main drivers. Not hacks in other words!!

One driver just replaced both front shock shafts with TC3 equipment since no one had Losi shafts!!. Its slightly smaller in diameter, but negligable. 0.001" ???

racecar850

i`m in that "hack" group of drivers, ( hoping to be an A-main drive one day) maybe i`ve been lucky but hav`nt broke any shock shafts (plenty of other parts though). When i assembled my shocks i wrapped the nose of my pliers with electrical tape and held onto the shaft itself.