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Old 01-29-2003, 04:54 PM   #5131
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Hey guys something I did to get more throw was to remove the little extra material thats on the front arm where the shock mounts.....its looks like a little bump or nipple and I ground that flat so the bottom of the shock would be closer to the arm and not rub with bigger tires. When you do this the spring may hit your castor block so you need to remove a little material from the front edge of the castor block as well. Its any easy thing to do and does not seem to weaken the parts any.
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Old 01-29-2003, 06:16 PM   #5132
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Does anyone know the part number for the new bumper?
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Old 01-29-2003, 11:09 PM   #5133
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New top piece for the foam bumper: A-4238
New foam bumper: A-4233
New front and rear molded bumpers: A-4236
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Old 01-29-2003, 11:11 PM   #5134
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Hey troy, do you have any recent pics of your chassis?
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Old 01-30-2003, 01:32 AM   #5135
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Default TIGHT SHOCK NUTS

Try threading the shock nuts on backwards(flip them upside down and then thread them onto the shocks). This helps break in the molded threads. I have been able to get them so loose that I need to score the threads to ensure the collars do not move.
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Old 01-30-2003, 01:36 AM   #5136
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Default Weight of new XXX-S GP Chassis

The chassis is 1/2 once lighter than the original lighten XXX-S chassis so that should put it about 136 grams.
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Old 01-30-2003, 01:39 AM   #5137
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Default Roll Centers with foam tires on carpet

The reason all the setups with foam tires on carpet show low roll center is because the car will lean more into the track. With high roll center the car wants to roll less causing more weight to be pushed onto the tires making the car want to traction roll. I know this for a fact because I watched Ron Rossetti run high roll centers for two days on carpet and once the bite come up his car was flipping off the track.
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Old 01-30-2003, 01:43 AM   #5138
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Recently built a graphite kit. Turned aluminum screws, taped batteries, radiused chassis edges, and drilled motor mount and my car was 3lb 2oz with transponder. This was with stock motore and Sanyo 3300's. The new car is MUCH lighter.

Good luck at Snowbirds Todd.
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Old 01-30-2003, 07:33 AM   #5139
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Quote:
Originally posted by RBLove
Recently built a graphite kit. Turned aluminum screws, taped batteries, radiused chassis edges, and drilled motor mount and my car was 3lb 2oz with transponder. This was with stock motore and Sanyo 3300's. The new car is MUCH lighter.

Good luck at Snowbirds Todd.
hey rob on that losi you built where did you get your spacers for the front and rear arms that is a very neat ideal and time saving. just a clip like ? thanks in advance
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Old 01-30-2003, 09:06 AM   #5140
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Quote:
Originally posted by AssocaitedRacer
Hey troy, do you have any recent pics of your chassis?
Yeah, E-mail me, TSR6@RCTech.net

-Troy
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Old 01-30-2003, 10:09 AM   #5141
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Kevin K -

The question I have for you is... why do you need more throw? At the point where the wheel begins to contact the shock... the CVD is already beginning to bind... not to mention the fact that when the steering is overthrown, the car itself will begin to bind and scrub speed on a track... especially carpet... Another thought that I had was whether or not the shock is still upright at this point, or has the change you made caused the shock angle to be different (front to rear)

So I am just curious as to the rationale behind it.

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Old 01-30-2003, 01:04 PM   #5142
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TROY/TSR6--- c'mon post them pics here so we can all see!!!! I need domething to drool over for 2 weeks!!!LOL

KevinK- also have to agree with tufferwilde, anytime you have to add more steering throw unnaturally especially to a car like the XXX-S you need to seriously investigate your set-up, or chassis for bent/broken parts......

On my KO radio I usually kept my D/R (steering throw) tuned down to 45-60 out of 150 on my Losi!!!!!! and sometimes 25-35 for oval!!!!! adding more throw by chopping/cutting parts is hack tuning IMHO........
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Old 01-30-2003, 02:22 PM   #5143
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What's so special about Troy's car? I mean, he has the droop screws in backwards, and 2 degrees of caster on one side and 6 on the other, but hey, it works, right? haha

Unless, of course, by "chassis" you were referring to something else.

I haven't had a chance to build my G+ yet, I'm still running my old XXX-S and it's doing just fine. Was the fastest car at my track last week.
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Old 01-30-2003, 02:27 PM   #5144
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With rubber tires I wouldn't see any reason at all to cut parts to get more steering throw. But with a 28mm foam on front, the tire hits the spring cup pretty easily. Tonight I'm going to try some Yokomo wheel hexes to hopefully widen the car enough to fix this. The way it is right now, my turning circle is about 6 feet diameter (that's ok though, my setup has plenty of steering... it's just a bitch trying to get out of trouble). Any more D/R and the rims hit the spring cups.

As for the shock collars, I put a set of the Trinity aluminum ones on when I built the car, but when I used to have a xxxt I used the plastic collars. Over time they do loosen up quite a bit.
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Old 01-30-2003, 02:40 PM   #5145
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Those plastic collars that come with the shocks are terrible. They are difficult to adjust, until they get a little worn out, and then they come loose.

The $11 investment in a set of the Trinity o-ring collars is well worth it. Plus, they come in both red and blue styles, for all you expressionists out there.
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