Advil

iTrader: (19)

I tried 6 degree caster blocks on my local carpet track (NorCal Hobbies). It lacked the turn in to make fast laps. It was good on middle and exit of corners but the lack of turn in was hard to overcome. I was persistant and tried many changes but went faster with the 4 degree caster blocks on my car. Perhaps on a bigger more flowing layout they may pay off. YMMV.

I also heard Hara-san saying something about only using them when he has some anti-dive in the car when we talked at the last Reedy.

Art

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

On my previus car (Xray) I used 6D blocks and it worked quite well. I was using Anti-dive, and also a front gear diff with a bit lighter oil. This worked really well and was fast. Havent tried it on the TCX yet but in higher traction conditions the spool is usually faster

ShaunMac

Can someone confirm this please.

Hot Bodies has no 46mm DCJ's for the TCX.

Spec-R has no DCJ's period for the TCX.

I'm using the HB 44mm DCJ's with the long cups and it seems to work well. My concern is damage to the cups as the DCJ's are still a tad short for my taste. Any other alternatives available?

Thanks

Joven M

iTrader: (5)

I'm assuming your using the POM outdrives and yes they are delicate against big hits. If you don't like using the steel ones, Im using a locked up spec r gear diff up front with plastic blades on my dcj. I was told that they sell a locking kit for it. I just used epoxy in my gear diff to lock it up.

RaceAce701

iTrader: (87)

ok going to ask a vague question here

i have 2 tcx's both are stock and the setups are completley identical

17.5 blinky in both if it matters carpet track med low bite (but it does the same thing on high bite carpet as well as asphault)

one its absolutlety perfect the other is a complete pile i have no rear traction at all (on power off power and neutral power) and no matter what i chance nothing seems to fix it (i tried bodies,tires, springs front track width, roll centers, shocks (from the good car) wheelbase setting and ever different style arms and nothing) thay help a little but they just seem to mask a bigger problem.

the car used to work fine the all of a sudden one week after a regular tear down and rebuild it was like a entirely different car and not in a good way

has anyone had a similar problem or can direct me to part to check for a possable bent something

thanks its just a bit frustrating

goots

iTrader: (20)

So I'm over the spool diff. I cracked the coupler for one of my DCJ axles. So now Ill be running dual gear diffs in the car. How heavy weight oil is everyone using up front?

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

bent bulkhead, maybe?sure you don't have the chassis tweaked when you re-assembled it, alex??

I've had my TCX and TC act similar to that - but found out the settings were just a bit off

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

i've used putty and 300k oil..I just ordered the bits to turn a gear diff into a locked spool

HB-forever

Hi

Just my way to aviod those problems , I ALWAYS change all screws in chassis after a tear down. It's almost impossible to see if one is bended. I buy a box with 200 pieces at a time , have never really liked the titanium ones

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Hey,
try checking the pivot blocks ...my car felt awesome for a while then went down hill.
found that the pivot block was slightly bent made the car do little weird things.
also I've been going thru outer bearing like crazy.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

need a little help...tried searching on here.

1. what do the new steering knuckles do? main benefit.

I put on Xray knuckles to see if I will get a different steering feel.
had to take a shims off from the steering rack.
prior had 4mm on the rack (standard knuckles).
now have 1 mm on the rack (Xray Knuckles)

I am trying to get a bit more steering out of the car.
overall the car is very easy to drive
but need more snap into a turn without losing predictability.

2. front pivot blocks.
what is the effect of changing the front pivot blocks? low number versus higher number.

any help would be appreciated.

tryandfok

iTrader: (4)

selling my tcx chassis

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...x-chassis.html

MrKahunaXD

iTrader: (3)

Where can I buy this?

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Try Tamiya knuckles with 2mm ackerman, this is what works best for us down under. We generally always use 1.5 susp mounts ff and fr and steering is pretty damn good.

Advil

iTrader: (19)

1.) I was told the scrub radius was different/better. As I am not smart enought to know what that is, (LOL) I just nodded my head. They are much smoother around center than the old steering knuckles. Less twitchy.

2.) Agressiveness. My car was much more agressive through turn with 2.5 than with 1.5. 1.5 felt pretty dead.

Art