Schumacher Corner
02-26-2006, 07:48 AM
Tech Adept
Droop Measurement Clarification
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
I use droop as a tuning option from time to time. We'll change it .5mm here and there. Most of the setups I run are between 3mm and 4.5mm. For instance, tonight (before I killed the car 
) Donny and I were doing some setup work with a one-way at SoCal and we both ended up with 3.5mm droop in the front and 4.5mm in the rear. With the spool there, I was running 4mm in the front and 4.5mm in the rear. (All above ride height.) So not huge differences but it's a fairly sensitive adjustment. Which is why I really like measuring droop above ride height more than any other method. Things like ride height and roll center changes will effect your droop. If you have 4mm droop in the rear and 5mm ride height, and change the ride height to 4.5, your going to now have more like 4.5mm droop. But if you're measuring using just a droop gauge or by axle height, You won't see any change. Droop gauges to me are good for making sure you've got it right from side to side.
) Donny and I were doing some setup work with a one-way at SoCal and we both ended up with 3.5mm droop in the front and 4.5mm in the rear. With the spool there, I was running 4mm in the front and 4.5mm in the rear. (All above ride height.) So not huge differences but it's a fairly sensitive adjustment. Which is why I really like measuring droop above ride height more than any other method. Things like ride height and roll center changes will effect your droop. If you have 4mm droop in the rear and 5mm ride height, and change the ride height to 4.5, your going to now have more like 4.5mm droop. But if you're measuring using just a droop gauge or by axle height, You won't see any change. Droop gauges to me are good for making sure you've got it right from side to side.So, if my ride height is 4mm from the board. Then I take off my wheels and replace them with my droop blocks which are 10mm. My car is now 14mm off the tweak board. If I now measure from the tweak board to the top of the axle and that comes to 10mm is my droop now 4mm? Following that logic if my measurement to the top of the axle is 14mm I have 0mm droop and if the measurement is 16mm then I have -2mm droop.
Is that correct?
02-26-2006, 09:19 AM
Way to go Shreff!!!
Now......share the wealth!!!
Setup please!!!!
Now......share the wealth!!!
Setup please!!!!
02-26-2006, 09:32 AM
Leadfoot the way we do it is set the ride height for ex at 5mm. Then set the chassis on the step for 7mm (this is for 2 over ride height). adjust droop screw until that side tire just barely touches. Hope that helps.
Fred I agree, I want to see his setup
Fred I agree, I want to see his setup
02-26-2006, 09:37 AM
When I measure droop above ride height, I check the ride height like normal, then lift the end of the car from the notch in the center of the shock tower until the tires are just touching the setup board. Then measure the ride height again from the same place. Take that height and subtract your ride height and you get your true droop measurement. Weather your ride height starts at 4mm or 6mm, when you lift it, the tires are going to just leave the board at the same time and you're going to get the same "up travel" measurement. The shocks are unloaded at this point so the spring tension has no effect. Only the droop screws and potentially shock length (if they're not long enough) will effect the droop. If the second measurement is 9mm when lifted, if you started with 4mm ride height, you now have 5mm of droop. If you started with 5mm of ride height you'd now only have 4mm of droop. So if you lower your ride height and want the same droop, you need to actually take some droop out of the car for it to be the same. Like I said, those droop gauges usually confuse people more than they help. I use them to make sure both sides are even and that's really it. Hope this explains what I mean. There's really no reason for putting the car up on blocks and subtracting that height etc... All that does is confuse things.
02-26-2006, 09:42 AM
Jon I agree...I think we basically do it the same way.
02-26-2006, 10:27 AM
Tech Adept
Bob Barry, Jon Kerr
Thank you for the replies.
One last question and then I will shut up. When you measure ride height from the static position are you measuring the chassis just behind the bumper or the chassis just behind the tire in the front? The reason I ask is because on my Mi2 the bumper holder is not perfectly flush and is very difficult to measure the leading edged of the chassis unless I am home and I take off the bumper. I was wondering if it made a difference
Thanks again
Thank you for the replies.
One last question and then I will shut up. When you measure ride height from the static position are you measuring the chassis just behind the bumper or the chassis just behind the tire in the front? The reason I ask is because on my Mi2 the bumper holder is not perfectly flush and is very difficult to measure the leading edged of the chassis unless I am home and I take off the bumper. I was wondering if it made a difference
Thanks again
02-26-2006, 12:34 PM
On the front, I usually measure right behind the back pivot block and on the rear of the car I measure right in front of the front pivot block. That way screws don't effect it or like you said, the bumpers, and especially in the back, the chassis wear.
02-26-2006, 01:46 PM
Adrian or PW. The product search on the website seems to be down. I guess I'll call you in the morning to place my order.
02-26-2006, 04:52 PM
TurboDog You got PM
Jon You got PM
Jon You got PM
02-26-2006, 06:43 PM
Yeah, boys, Schreff got his Schuie working great this weekend at Horsham. He earned TQ by a couple of seconds against several other national drivers in 19T including eXpress' own Mark Strasnick and Larry Fairtrace. His car was very, very good and there's more left in the car according to him.
The major adjustment from PW's setup at the Birds was the removal of the swaybar. Other than that, it's darn close. For any other minor changes to the PW carpet setup, Schreff would have to clarify further for you. (He's running oval today, so he hasn't been around.)
I'll be running mine hopefully by next weekend. It's finally built and ready to roll.
The major adjustment from PW's setup at the Birds was the removal of the swaybar. Other than that, it's darn close. For any other minor changes to the PW carpet setup, Schreff would have to clarify further for you. (He's running oval today, so he hasn't been around.)
I'll be running mine hopefully by next weekend. It's finally built and ready to roll.
02-26-2006, 06:46 PM
Quick question - has anyone tried a 48 pitch spur larger than 89tooth on the EC? I'm looking for ratio's to run the novak 4.5 and think I'd like to have a 92 tooth spur as an option - but not sure if it will fit without dropping through the chassis.
02-26-2006, 06:57 PM
Originally Posted by scott_g
Quick question - has anyone tried a 48 pitch spur larger than 89tooth on the EC? I'm looking for ratio's to run the novak 4.5 and think I'd like to have a 92 tooth spur as an option - but not sure if it will fit without dropping through the chassis.
02-26-2006, 07:03 PM
From what I heard about the new 19 T motors I think our gearing will be closer to 41-116 
02-26-2006, 07:07 PM
Originally Posted by scott_g
Quick question - has anyone tried a 48 pitch spur larger than 89tooth on the EC? I'm looking for ratio's to run the novak 4.5 and think I'd like to have a 92 tooth spur as an option - but not sure if it will fit without dropping through the chassis.
02-26-2006, 08:22 PM
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
From what I heard about the new 19 T motors I think our gearing will be closer to 41-116
.