IslandBwoy

Thanks PW

IslandBwoy

Where did you guys post all your old mission setup sheets?

DavidAlford

iTrader: (32)

I just finished my car and all I can say is wow. I am loving this thing. Super free and the belts arent even broke in yet. We hope to have some good carpet with foam stuff figured out this weekend. I'll post some more about it tomorrow night after we get a day of practice in.

rcshark

you know its harder and harder togo sideways! but when i did i should have not!

" Got parts!"

David Alberico

iTrader: (13)

What's new PW

IslandBwoy

Hi guys,

Is there anyway to check weather or not a cvd/axle is bent. I've found that sometimes i can have a bent anxle and not even know it until i rip the car apart searching for the problem. How do you guys test for small imperfections in these parts?

R.

Jonas Andersson

Hi everyone!
I've finally gotten myself to post something here on rctech after a good year or two of reading... It was very nice to meet some of you guys at the Worlds in Florida.
Anyway, I've got a small question. What method do you guys prefer when it comes to attaching the upperdeck on your Mi2's? Standard flat-head screws, cone-washers (a lá Teemu), maybe button-head screws with normal washers or something else? I've always used flat-head screws myself (although aluminum ones for that psychologically important lowering of the CG...) but I recieved a question regarding this at the last race I attended and didn't have a good answer on what the best option is.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Hi, Jonas...its nice to see you here.

For those of you that don't know Jonas Andersson he Teemu Leino are our top international Factory drivers.

Jonas - I think everyone uses flat head screws. If you use cone washers and flat heads you have to keep a careful eye on tweak. One bump can knock the car out of tweak if you use cone washers.

Jonas Andersson

Thanks for the fast reply, and the introduction, Adrian. I was just a bit curios on wheter you guys had played around with this. Another thing which seems to haunt me on every car with an upperdeck that I have built is that the chassis doesn't get completely flat. In 9 times out of 10 the left/rear and right/front corners of the chassis are slightly "bent" upwards. I have tried to assemble cars in different ways, and tightened screws in a "star" pattern, and even though this helps to a certain degree I always encounter this phenomenon on my cars. Have you, or anyone else, got a clue on what I'm doing wrong? Could it be a result of all screws being tightened clock-wise? As I'm not an engineer in any way I sometimes get very fascinated with strange problems like this one, which more than often have very simple solutions....

mo

iTrader: (7)

I use those tapered washer things (I can't rememeber what they are really called) on the 4 screws that go into the bulkhead and I ream those holes out a tiny bit so they don't fit tightly in the holes. Then I just use regular flat heads on the rest of the holes. You can see what I mean on the attached pic. The chassis generally sits flat. If it gets tweaked I just loosen up all the screws on the car, including the suspension mounts, and retighten. That usually solves it. It your chassis is still lifted, the chassis itself may be warped.

Jonas Andersson

Thanks for your tip, Mo, I understand exactly what you mean. The loose-retighten solution is the same as I use. Btw, I am not saying that this is a major problem for me, just to get that straight, normally I have no tweak-issues at all with my car.

Anyway, what effect do you think that the extra motor-spacer has on the handling of the car? I tried it myself a year ago or so but never got a good picture of what it did. Had too many other things to test. The only thing that I can remember is that the car definitaly reacted differently in roll with throttleinput, and that I didn't like it at the time... Hmm, I probably have to test it again.

@IslandBwoy,
If you mean the CVD-bone/axle I just normally turn the wheels slowly while looking at the CVD's. Even the smallest bend on the axle shows itself immediately this way.
When it comes to the hinge-pins (that goes through the suspension-arms) I always remove (which is fairly easy on the Mi-2) and roll them on a flat/smooth surface if I suspect that they have taken a hit. Even the smallest bend on these pins can easily ruin the handling of the car by either changing the alignments (inboard toe-in for example) or even worse jamming the suspension.

mo

iTrader: (7)

I run the motor spacer simply to balance the car without adding weight to the left side. With the spacer and the batteries moved all the way in or with the Teemu chassis, the car is near perfect balanced from left to right.

MattW

Hi Jonas. Personally i use the same washers that Teemu does. The reason that i prefer these is that when you tighten, the bottom of the washer clamps straight down on the top deck there shouldn't be much of a twisting motion. Where as using the std method, the screw is twisting, and can grip the top deck and twist it as it tightens.

I tend to find the car is a little easier to build this way. I know Andy and Chris use these washers as well.

Got a big carpet race this weekend, which should be good. Probably not as much traction as last year's UK Reedy race

Speedie

With the BMI chassis on my Mi2 I had to take the motor spacer out to get the car to balance. The batts are that far inboard.

DavidAlford

iTrader: (32)

First day on the car and I gotta say I love this thing. I started with Andrews foam setup and changed a few things. Car is really fast. Has great corner speed. I'm going to try a few more things tomorrow.

Good luck this weekend PW. Hope you got your car rebuilt.