P-DUB

Way to go Clint!!!! Lay it down!

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Good job Clint.

Alex_kipper

iTrader: (1)

hey guys, im almost positive i going to go threw with the schumacher!

i was wondering what i should keep for a stash of parts??

and is there a battery strap available out there?

heavy

iTrader: (23)

Schumacher part number U2985 - c/f battery strap and alloy posts. Shim it up loose enough to make sure you don't tweak the chassis. Run some tape along the inside of you battery packs just for added security. Works so well and you never need to mess with taping your packs in.

Nothing much needed in teh way of spares but if you are prone to hitting things a lot you might want to order a spare pair of front cvd's.

Alex_kipper

iTrader: (1)

thanks heavy!

i was also wondering what pitch of pinions you use for the car?

King-G

Car went great yesterday, finding a decent performance gain on our local track (low - med grip - quite bumpy) by going up one rate of spring front and rear (from white 14 lbs to Blue 16 LBS).

I was convinced previously that whites where the way to go for our low grip bumpy track, but going up one rate showed improvements in all areas.

The car became much better through the high speed sections, much better change of direction with no loss of slow speed steering.


Improved overall Personal best time, and individual laptime by 2/10ths

All other settings remained the same as previous heres a brief summary
This setup should work well on all untreated Low to medium tracks using rubber tires.

Front
Spring: Shue Blue
Oil: 30 wt Schumacher
Shock position, Mid tower, outer on arm
Ride height: 6mm
Droop: 2.5mm (8.5mm total chassis uptravel)
Black anti-roll bar
Wheel base: Mid short
Castor: 4 deg
Camber link Raised 2mm (to account for lowered trans)
Roll centre: 2mm riser plate, plus 1mm shim)
Transmission lowered 2mm (removed riser plates)
Steering track rod length 40.8mm end to end
Front track width (std_no spacers)
Spool

Rear
Spring: Shue Blue
Oil: 35 wt Schumacher
Shock position, 2nd outermost on tower, 2nd outer outer on arm
Ride height: 6mm
Droop: 3.5mm (9.5mm total chassis uptravel)
Black anti-roll bar
Wheel base: Mid long
Transmission lowered (removed riser plate)
Camberlink Position: upper (no spacer on hub)
Roll centre (2mm riser plate, plus 2mm shims)
Rear track width: 1 spacer each side.

Tires T.O 27, Std M insert, Revlite 24mm wheels
Bodyshell Stratus 3.0 AP
Nosram 4 star brushless
Gearing 18 / 89

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Thanks for all the kind words. Mo's set up was killer and I still like the AP stratus over the mazda 6. The car was a hair too twitchy with the mazda. I will have to learn to get use to it (Mo famous words) if I want to get better. If I don't race next weekend in Union city then it's a tear down and oneway put in for carpet season.

aus jd 2703

iTrader: (5)

hey
any tips for mod??
toying with the idea of running mod as it is easyier to win
probably just buy a revolution 9t maybe a 8t both singles.
apart from tire wear what would wear out?
just sick of being beat buy the same guys so thought maybe playing in mod might be a good laugh

scott_g

iTrader: (9)

jd, trust me when I tell you that winning mod is in no way easier than winning the class you currently run in.

If you step up to mod, you'll wear out more parts, and break things. If you are running on a budget, then 540 is good, or step up to rebuildable stock.

Mod is a very big step from where you're currently racing. I don't think it's time yet.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Running mod is not a good idea if you're on a budget. Tires, CVD's, Diffs, motors, brushes, everything wears out much faster than in stock and especially 540. scott_g is right. Stick with what you're doing and maybe step into regular stock. I know guys who've been racing 10 years or more with budgets higher than I have and they won't run mod. I do think that running a faster class with better racers will make you better, but if it comes at the expense of you not being able to afford to race because of the wear and tear on your equipment, it's not worth it.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Trying to figure out something at work...


Can someone post the size (average) of a TakeOff CS27 premount...outer diameter in inches?


Thanks.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I know Take-Off's are usually slightly smaller than Sorex and Sorex are usually about 64mm.

PW

I think it's around 2.48" But I would measure to be safe

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

What's it for Nexus?

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Sorry was just figuring some rollout questions with a friend

For whatever reason it's easier to talk gearing in terms of rollout compared to final drive Atleast for me.