Xray T1
#5611
Tech Regular
Hey guys, quick question.
I got a used Evo2 with a spur that saids 125, which means its 64 pitch right? I see on mytsn set up that most people use spur around 88-95 which means they're 48 pitch yea?
So my question is whats the pros and cons of running 48P vs 64P?
Thanks
I got a used Evo2 with a spur that saids 125, which means its 64 pitch right? I see on mytsn set up that most people use spur around 88-95 which means they're 48 pitch yea?
So my question is whats the pros and cons of running 48P vs 64P?
Thanks
#5612
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Hey guys, quick question.
I got a used Evo2 with a spur that saids 125, which means its 64 pitch right? I see on mytsn set up that most people use spur around 88-95 which means they're 48 pitch yea?
So my question is whats the pros and cons of running 48P vs 64P?
Thanks
Hey guys, quick question.
I got a used Evo2 with a spur that saids 125, which means its 64 pitch right? I see on mytsn set up that most people use spur around 88-95 which means they're 48 pitch yea?
So my question is whats the pros and cons of running 48P vs 64P?
Thanks
#5613
So this aint a lemon, its a flaw on a perfect kit
Thanks.
Thanks.
Originally posted by ASM
Not only have I heard of a blown bearing on the spur, I've lived it It cost me a win in a recent qualifier. It also fried the plastic piece as well. That's not a real common size bearing, so I suggest you keep an extra one with you. I also spoke to another xray owner yesterday at the track and he had also experienced the same problem. This seems to suggust that the bearing size isn't sufficient to handle the load.
Not only have I heard of a blown bearing on the spur, I've lived it It cost me a win in a recent qualifier. It also fried the plastic piece as well. That's not a real common size bearing, so I suggest you keep an extra one with you. I also spoke to another xray owner yesterday at the track and he had also experienced the same problem. This seems to suggust that the bearing size isn't sufficient to handle the load.
#5615
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Just to give a quick tip on metric screws, especially for you guys that don't have local hobby shops that keep X Ray stuff in stock, Ace Hardware rocks! I bought my Evo2 on ebay and it was missing a few misc screws (wheels, engine mounting) and since I couldn't find anywhere on line that had them in stock while I was in Ace I checked out their huge screw/nut/bolt section and sure enough they had EXACTLY what I needed. Stainless steel, hex end, the whole shooting match for like 13 cents each! They didn't have ball ends (that I saw, but I wouldn't count them out...), but I also stocked up on extra set screws for pinions, wheels, anything that I could remember. They even have tie rods if your desperate! They were called something Automotive but they had a whole box of them in a ton of sizes. Possibly not as good as Hudy parts, but definatly better than paying $7 shipping for $3 worth of screws.
#5617
Tech Apprentice
final drive ratio
can anyone tell me how to compute for the final drive ratio
of xray. Thanks
of xray. Thanks
#5618
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
Final Drive Ratio = Spur/Pinion * Internal Ratio
Also...I've been having some trouble with deploying my Pocket PC rollout calculator so I put it to the web.
http://www.2brainsdesign.com/2brains...lloutcalc.aspx
A windows version is coming as well.
Blake
Also...I've been having some trouble with deploying my Pocket PC rollout calculator so I put it to the web.
http://www.2brainsdesign.com/2brains...lloutcalc.aspx
A windows version is coming as well.
Blake
#5620
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
Originally posted by 429racer
Anybody know of a hobby store I can order Xray parts (6 degree caster blocks, axles, belts and metric screws)?
Anybody know of a hobby store I can order Xray parts (6 degree caster blocks, axles, belts and metric screws)?
www.ashfordhobby.com
Also, check out www.rcscrewz.com for screws. $18 for a full set of stainless screws for the EVO2. They are nice
#5621
Originally posted by psbarger
Just to give a quick tip on metric screws, especially for you guys that don't have local hobby shops that keep X Ray stuff in stock, Ace Hardware rocks! I bought my Evo2 on ebay and it was missing a few misc screws (wheels, engine mounting) and since I couldn't find anywhere on line that had them in stock while I was in Ace I checked out their huge screw/nut/bolt section and sure enough they had EXACTLY what I needed. Stainless steel, hex end, the whole shooting match for like 13 cents each! They didn't have ball ends (that I saw, but I wouldn't count them out...), but I also stocked up on extra set screws for pinions, wheels, anything that I could remember. They even have tie rods if your desperate! They were called something Automotive but they had a whole box of them in a ton of sizes. Possibly not as good as Hudy parts, but definatly better than paying $7 shipping for $3 worth of screws.
Just to give a quick tip on metric screws, especially for you guys that don't have local hobby shops that keep X Ray stuff in stock, Ace Hardware rocks! I bought my Evo2 on ebay and it was missing a few misc screws (wheels, engine mounting) and since I couldn't find anywhere on line that had them in stock while I was in Ace I checked out their huge screw/nut/bolt section and sure enough they had EXACTLY what I needed. Stainless steel, hex end, the whole shooting match for like 13 cents each! They didn't have ball ends (that I saw, but I wouldn't count them out...), but I also stocked up on extra set screws for pinions, wheels, anything that I could remember. They even have tie rods if your desperate! They were called something Automotive but they had a whole box of them in a ton of sizes. Possibly not as good as Hudy parts, but definatly better than paying $7 shipping for $3 worth of screws.
#5623
dr_hfuhuhurr, stiffer is generally better when you are running foam tires on carpet. A stiffer chassis/upper deck makes the car handle much more consistently. Which leads to a tigher, faster line and fewer mistakes. Also, it seems like a stiffer car carries more corner speed, which is what roadcourse racing is all about.
A more flexible chassis/upper deck is better for low-traction racing, like running rubber tires on either asphalt or carpet. The extra flex gives more traction to the car, when it would otherwise slide in the corners.
A more flexible chassis/upper deck is better for low-traction racing, like running rubber tires on either asphalt or carpet. The extra flex gives more traction to the car, when it would otherwise slide in the corners.
#5624
one way to think of it is that if the chassis is completely rigid (no flex), then the cars suspension and suspension geometry does the work. You are not using the chassis of the car as another shock if you will. Since carpet tracks are generally flat and have more trackion, you do no need to take into consideration the uneven track conditions on a parking lot track. I believe a lot of the bouncing and rolling down the staight of a parking lot track is taken up by the flex of a chassis. Since carpet is soo smooth, we would want the car to react as quick as possible.
Also, the effects of tuning, make a more dramatic difference on carpet. Because again the cars suspension is doing the work and you are not fighting the reaction of teh chassis flexing and twisting.
Also, the effects of tuning, make a more dramatic difference on carpet. Because again the cars suspension is doing the work and you are not fighting the reaction of teh chassis flexing and twisting.