XRAY T3
02-12-2010, 03:54 PM
#1501
Hi there
i am running an EU spec T3 on carpet , i have ordred the 1 degree toe in rear uprights .
Can someone please explain what the differance is between 3 dergees inboard toe and 2 degrees inboard and 1 degree outboard ??
What does it do to the car ??
And what do 6 degree caster blocks do for handling ??
cheeRS Phil
i am running an EU spec T3 on carpet , i have ordred the 1 degree toe in rear uprights .
Can someone please explain what the differance is between 3 dergees inboard toe and 2 degrees inboard and 1 degree outboard ??
What does it do to the car ??
And what do 6 degree caster blocks do for handling ??
cheeRS Phil
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/tc/print.htm
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
02-13-2010, 11:51 AM
#1504
Tech Rookie
[QUOTE=sidecarphil1;6996366]Hi there
i am running an EU spec T3 on carpet , i have ordred the 1 degree toe in rear uprights .
Can someone please explain what the differance is between 3 dergees inboard toe and 2 degrees inboard and 1 degree outboard ??
What does it do to the car ??
And what do 6 degree caster blocks do for handling
they 1deg toe hubs will "scrub" more than 0 deg causing the rear tyres to heat up more . they also help the stability of the car through faster corners .
you can also run the rear track width narrower due to the shims removed to maintain your initial toe , helping rotation through smaller tighter corners .
the 6deg caster will generally give more steering mid to exit of the corner and they will also make the car more stable over bumps due to the pin angle
hth gw
i am running an EU spec T3 on carpet , i have ordred the 1 degree toe in rear uprights .
Can someone please explain what the differance is between 3 dergees inboard toe and 2 degrees inboard and 1 degree outboard ??
What does it do to the car ??
And what do 6 degree caster blocks do for handling
they 1deg toe hubs will "scrub" more than 0 deg causing the rear tyres to heat up more . they also help the stability of the car through faster corners .
you can also run the rear track width narrower due to the shims removed to maintain your initial toe , helping rotation through smaller tighter corners .
the 6deg caster will generally give more steering mid to exit of the corner and they will also make the car more stable over bumps due to the pin angle
hth gw
02-13-2010, 12:05 PM
#1505
[QUOTE=G WESTWOOD;7000700]Hi there
i am running an EU spec T3 on carpet , i have ordred the 1 degree toe in rear uprights .
Can someone please explain what the differance is between 3 dergees inboard toe and 2 degrees inboard and 1 degree outboard ??
What does it do to the car ??
And what do 6 degree caster blocks do for handling
they 1deg toe hubs will "scrub" more than 0 deg causing the rear tyres to heat up more . they also help the stability of the car through faster corners .
you can also run the rear track width narrower due to the shims removed to maintain your initial toe , helping rotation through smaller tighter corners .
the 6deg caster will generally give more steering mid to exit of the corner and they will also make the car more stable over bumps due to the pin angle
hth gw
i was going to add 0.75 to the front part of the rear arm to change the rear toe and make the rear wider
i am running an EU spec T3 on carpet , i have ordred the 1 degree toe in rear uprights .
Can someone please explain what the differance is between 3 dergees inboard toe and 2 degrees inboard and 1 degree outboard ??
What does it do to the car ??
And what do 6 degree caster blocks do for handling
they 1deg toe hubs will "scrub" more than 0 deg causing the rear tyres to heat up more . they also help the stability of the car through faster corners .
you can also run the rear track width narrower due to the shims removed to maintain your initial toe , helping rotation through smaller tighter corners .
the 6deg caster will generally give more steering mid to exit of the corner and they will also make the car more stable over bumps due to the pin angle
hth gw
02-14-2010, 01:10 AM
#1508
T3 tech updates
ok, something I found while racing thursday night. Is when i drive the car in the corner hard the rear end would step out HARD. I run 1.4 front bar and 0 rear. Looking into it I found the 52mm rear shaft blade touches the bearing race making the spring rate go from 2.6c to infinite lol. Anyhow, Fix for this is running 50mm rear drive shafts. Do yourself a favor, compress the rear shocks while on the car with your setup. At the same time rotate the drivetrain with the spur (pinion off) and see if you have the same problem. I haven't talked to paul about it but I noticed he has been using the 50mm shafts for a bit so I am thinking he knows about it 
. So if your on the no rear bar setup, look into getting some 50mm axles for the rear. Also, don't get to caught up in ultra short wires because after I did, I noticed it actually tweaked the chassis(12awg deans wire). I am testing more tomorrow and will post my setup that I settle on tomorrow night.
happy racing...
. So if your on the no rear bar setup, look into getting some 50mm axles for the rear. Also, don't get to caught up in ultra short wires because after I did, I noticed it actually tweaked the chassis(12awg deans wire). I am testing more tomorrow and will post my setup that I settle on tomorrow night. happy racing...
02-14-2010, 04:08 PM
#1509
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
ok, something I found while racing thursday night. Is when i drive the car in the corner hard the rear end would step out HARD. I run 1.4 front bar and 0 rear. Looking into it I found the 52mm rear shaft blade touches the bearing race making the spring rate go from 2.6c to infinite lol. Anyhow, Fix for this is running 50mm rear drive shafts. Do yourself a favor, compress the rear shocks while on the car with your setup. At the same time rotate the drivetrain with the spur (pinion off) and see if you have the same problem. I haven't talked to paul about it but I noticed he has been using the 50mm shafts for a bit so I am thinking he knows about it . So if your on the no rear bar setup, look into getting some 50mm axles for the rear. Also, don't get to caught up in ultra short wires because after I did, I noticed it actually tweaked the chassis(12awg deans wire). I am testing more tomorrow and will post my setup that I settle on tomorrow night.
happy racing...
. So if your on the no rear bar setup, look into getting some 50mm axles for the rear. Also, don't get to caught up in ultra short wires because after I did, I noticed it actually tweaked the chassis(12awg deans wire). I am testing more tomorrow and will post my setup that I settle on tomorrow night. happy racing...
Hey rex, maybe you need some driving lessons,lol,lol,lol
02-14-2010, 05:18 PM
#1511
rx7ttlm,
I'm very interested in details about your drive shaft binding issue and your results of further testing today. I've had significant issues with my car "snap" hooking and would love to know how confident you are that the 50mm dogs are the fix. I've been trying everything I can think of and not much works that isn't drastic and has significant compromises ( basically dumbing down the front suspension ).
Thanks,
Jake
I'm very interested in details about your drive shaft binding issue and your results of further testing today. I've had significant issues with my car "snap" hooking and would love to know how confident you are that the 50mm dogs are the fix. I've been trying everything I can think of and not much works that isn't drastic and has significant compromises ( basically dumbing down the front suspension ).
Thanks,
Jake
02-14-2010, 06:19 PM
#1512
Tech Apprentice
ok, something I found while racing thursday night. Is when i drive the car in the corner hard the rear end would step out HARD. I run 1.4 front bar and 0 rear. Looking into it I found the 52mm rear shaft blade touches the bearing race making the spring rate go from 2.6c to infinite lol. Anyhow, Fix for this is running 50mm rear drive shafts. Do yourself a favor, compress the rear shocks while on the car with your setup. At the same time rotate the drivetrain with the spur (pinion off) and see if you have the same problem. I haven't talked to paul about it but I noticed he has been using the 50mm shafts for a bit so I am thinking he knows about it . So if your on the no rear bar setup, look into getting some 50mm axles for the rear. Also, don't get to caught up in ultra short wires because after I did, I noticed it actually tweaked the chassis(12awg deans wire). I am testing more tomorrow and will post my setup that I settle on tomorrow night.
happy racing...
. So if your on the no rear bar setup, look into getting some 50mm axles for the rear. Also, don't get to caught up in ultra short wires because after I did, I noticed it actually tweaked the chassis(12awg deans wire). I am testing more tomorrow and will post my setup that I settle on tomorrow night. happy racing...
rx7ttlm,
I'm very interested in details about your drive shaft binding issue and your results of further testing today. I've had significant issues with my car "snap" hooking and would love to know how confident you are that the 50mm dogs are the fix. I've been trying everything I can think of and not much works that isn't drastic and has significant compromises ( basically dumbing down the front suspension ).
Thanks,
Jake
I'm very interested in details about your drive shaft binding issue and your results of further testing today. I've had significant issues with my car "snap" hooking and would love to know how confident you are that the 50mm dogs are the fix. I've been trying everything I can think of and not much works that isn't drastic and has significant compromises ( basically dumbing down the front suspension ).
Thanks,
Jake
02-15-2010, 04:47 PM
#1514
02-15-2010, 04:49 PM
#1515
just a fyi i have a t3 eu for sale if anyone is intrested, here's the link
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...3-eu-sale.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...3-eu-sale.html