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Old 02-12-2010, 04:54 PM   #1501
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Hi there

i am running an EU spec T3 on carpet , i have ordred the 1 degree toe in rear uprights .

Can someone please explain what the differance is between 3 dergees inboard toe and 2 degrees inboard and 1 degree outboard ??

What does it do to the car ??

And what do 6 degree caster blocks do for handling ??

cheeRS Phil
Read here, it might help
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/tc/print.htm


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Old 02-12-2010, 07:26 PM   #1502
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Anyone know where I can find the new Hudy weights here in the US?
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Old 02-12-2010, 07:31 PM   #1503
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I know where i can find them, on my car,lol,lol,lol,lol,lol.

And thats the truth
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Old 02-13-2010, 12:51 PM   #1504
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[QUOTE=sidecarphil1;6996366]Hi there

i am running an EU spec T3 on carpet , i have ordred the 1 degree toe in rear uprights .

Can someone please explain what the differance is between 3 dergees inboard toe and 2 degrees inboard and 1 degree outboard ??

What does it do to the car ??

And what do 6 degree caster blocks do for handling

they 1deg toe hubs will "scrub" more than 0 deg causing the rear tyres to heat up more . they also help the stability of the car through faster corners .
you can also run the rear track width narrower due to the shims removed to maintain your initial toe , helping rotation through smaller tighter corners .

the 6deg caster will generally give more steering mid to exit of the corner and they will also make the car more stable over bumps due to the pin angle
hth gw
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Old 02-13-2010, 01:05 PM   #1505
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[QUOTE=G WESTWOOD;7000700]Hi there

i am running an EU spec T3 on carpet , i have ordred the 1 degree toe in rear uprights .

Can someone please explain what the differance is between 3 dergees inboard toe and 2 degrees inboard and 1 degree outboard ??

What does it do to the car ??

And what do 6 degree caster blocks do for handling

Quote:

they 1deg toe hubs will "scrub" more than 0 deg causing the rear tyres to heat up more . they also help the stability of the car through faster corners .
you can also run the rear track width narrower due to the shims removed to maintain your initial toe , helping rotation through smaller tighter corners .

the 6deg caster will generally give more steering mid to exit of the corner and they will also make the car more stable over bumps due to the pin angle
hth gw
i was going to add 0.75 to the front part of the rear arm to change the rear toe and make the rear wider
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Old 02-13-2010, 01:51 PM   #1506
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Originally Posted by nitro ho View Post
I know where i can find them, on my car,lol,lol,lol,lol,lol.

And thats the truth


thanks for your intelligent answer.
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Old 02-13-2010, 03:22 PM   #1507
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thanks for your intelligent answer.

No problemo,lol,lol,lol,lol,lol,lol,lol.
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:10 AM   #1508
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ok, something I found while racing thursday night. Is when i drive the car in the corner hard the rear end would step out HARD. I run 1.4 front bar and 0 rear. Looking into it I found the 52mm rear shaft blade touches the bearing race making the spring rate go from 2.6c to infinite lol. Anyhow, Fix for this is running 50mm rear drive shafts. Do yourself a favor, compress the rear shocks while on the car with your setup. At the same time rotate the drivetrain with the spur (pinion off) and see if you have the same problem. I haven't talked to paul about it but I noticed he has been using the 50mm shafts for a bit so I am thinking he knows about it . So if your on the no rear bar setup, look into getting some 50mm axles for the rear. Also, don't get to caught up in ultra short wires because after I did, I noticed it actually tweaked the chassis(12awg deans wire). I am testing more tomorrow and will post my setup that I settle on tomorrow night.

happy racing...
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Old 02-14-2010, 05:08 PM   #1509
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ok, something I found while racing thursday night. Is when i drive the car in the corner hard the rear end would step out HARD. I run 1.4 front bar and 0 rear. Looking into it I found the 52mm rear shaft blade touches the bearing race making the spring rate go from 2.6c to infinite lol. Anyhow, Fix for this is running 50mm rear drive shafts. Do yourself a favor, compress the rear shocks while on the car with your setup. At the same time rotate the drivetrain with the spur (pinion off) and see if you have the same problem. I haven't talked to paul about it but I noticed he has been using the 50mm shafts for a bit so I am thinking he knows about it . So if your on the no rear bar setup, look into getting some 50mm axles for the rear. Also, don't get to caught up in ultra short wires because after I did, I noticed it actually tweaked the chassis(12awg deans wire). I am testing more tomorrow and will post my setup that I settle on tomorrow night.

happy racing...

Hey rex, maybe you need some driving lessons,lol,lol,lol
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Futaba 4pk,gq tires,jaco tyres,odonnel fuel,T-Power batteries, tekin and nova powered.
Don`t blame the car, when you know you can`t drive.
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Old 02-14-2010, 05:22 PM   #1510
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Hey rex, maybe you need some driving lessons,lol,lol,lol
well come over to timezone 2 and give me some driving lessons, while your doing that I will be the one lapping you
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:18 PM   #1511
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rx7ttlm,

I'm very interested in details about your drive shaft binding issue and your results of further testing today. I've had significant issues with my car "snap" hooking and would love to know how confident you are that the 50mm dogs are the fix. I've been trying everything I can think of and not much works that isn't drastic and has significant compromises ( basically dumbing down the front suspension ).

Thanks,

Jake
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:19 PM   #1512
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
ok, something I found while racing thursday night. Is when i drive the car in the corner hard the rear end would step out HARD. I run 1.4 front bar and 0 rear. Looking into it I found the 52mm rear shaft blade touches the bearing race making the spring rate go from 2.6c to infinite lol. Anyhow, Fix for this is running 50mm rear drive shafts. Do yourself a favor, compress the rear shocks while on the car with your setup. At the same time rotate the drivetrain with the spur (pinion off) and see if you have the same problem. I haven't talked to paul about it but I noticed he has been using the 50mm shafts for a bit so I am thinking he knows about it . So if your on the no rear bar setup, look into getting some 50mm axles for the rear. Also, don't get to caught up in ultra short wires because after I did, I noticed it actually tweaked the chassis(12awg deans wire). I am testing more tomorrow and will post my setup that I settle on tomorrow night.

happy racing...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
rx7ttlm,

I'm very interested in details about your drive shaft binding issue and your results of further testing today. I've had significant issues with my car "snap" hooking and would love to know how confident you are that the 50mm dogs are the fix. I've been trying everything I can think of and not much works that isn't drastic and has significant compromises ( basically dumbing down the front suspension ).

Thanks,

Jake
Very interested in this also, been having the same problem.
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Old 02-14-2010, 09:31 PM   #1513
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Originally Posted by matt rem View Post
Anyone know where I can find the new Hudy weights here in the US?
So does anyone know of anywhere? I called and left a message with RC America on Thursday but they never got back with me.
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:47 PM   #1514
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So does anyone know of anywhere? I called and left a message with RC America on Thursday but they never got back with me.
Try Kogae at CanWest RC, he said he just got them in.
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:49 PM   #1515
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just a fyi i have a t3 eu for sale if anyone is intrested, here's the link

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...3-eu-sale.html
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