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Old 11-05-2011, 05:30 PM   #391
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It is the spring i use as a basic setup and work my way from there after some questions on a dutch forum.
Untill now it has proven itself a good choice

regards Roy

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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
i thought i read somewhere guys recommend the 0.020" springs.
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:05 AM   #392
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How about the Corally Nissan Alexander?
I have it and it gives from my point a view a nice overall downforce and enough steering

regards Roy
To continue from the WGT body debate... The Nissan P35 is a good allround Medium Downforce body. I don't have any experience with that body yet but what i heard from mathijs is that it has a little more downforce at the front then the peugeot medium downforce. I gues it is just a matter of preference. I will paint a Nissan P35 for next year so will see how it goes.

The Hotbodies Nissan has more downforce everywhere but there are markings front and back to cut out of the body so you can tailor it for less downforce.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:59 AM   #393
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
what front end springs do you guys recommend? i currently have 0.022" on the car and i thought i read somewhere guys recommend the 0.020" springs.
0.020" is the baseline front spring we use.
Use 0.018" if you need more steering, 0.022" if you want to kill some steering.

Using the above, keep in mind that a firmer spring gives a bit more initial steering (faster response). Oppositely, a soft spring can give a bit smoother steering.
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:57 PM   #394
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Is it possible to just tape in some lipo saddle packs?
Yes, glue something under the lipo's that fall into the cell slots and tape the lipo on the chassis. The lipo's don't go anywhere.
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:13 PM   #395
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Yes, glue something under the lipo's that fall into the cell slots and tape the lipo on the chassis. The lipo's don't go anywhere.
Or just do it like this (pl lang but Y will get what is going on).

http://www.youtube.com/abrampl#p/u/19/OfmxyPfT_dU


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Old 11-08-2011, 12:37 AM   #396
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Good idea but most saddlepacks are flat underneath. That stickpack has bumps underneath that fall in the slots. Not sure if a flat lipo will stay on the chassis without anything in the slots.
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Old 11-08-2011, 01:02 AM   #397
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Thanks so much for the info guys, very helpful.

The reason I'm putting this car together is because I had a drive of a modified TC not too long ago, it was fast but I told my friend who owns it a pan would beat it with the same motor! My friend took the challenge, he constantly goes on about how pan cars are 70s technology and have no hope against a TC! Anyway, building this car to show him otherwise! I might not beat him but I will put up a fight! TCs just look so overcomplicated! I understand they are good for rougher tracks but our local tracks are very smooth.
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Old 11-08-2011, 01:09 AM   #398
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Overhere at almost every race we race, we meet or beat the TC modified guys. They are all driving with motors in the 4.5 ranges and we drive a 10.5!!!

At most races we make the same ór faster laptimes than they do so... Pancars RULE!!!
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Old 11-08-2011, 01:36 PM   #399
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Overhere at almost every race we race, we meet or beat the TC modified guys. They are all driving with motors in the 4.5 ranges and we drive a 10.5!!!

At most races we make the same ór faster laptimes than they do so... Pancars RULE!!!
my Corally 10SL is usually 0.5sec quicker every 10 seconds then modified 4WD cars..
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Old 11-08-2011, 01:54 PM   #400
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Hi, I watched the tutorials on youtube. Any chance for an English version?
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Old 11-08-2011, 02:57 PM   #401
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my Corally 10SL is usually 0.5sec quicker every 10 seconds then modified 4WD cars..
Are you the one in the race report on the corally website?
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:45 PM   #402
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anybody suggest some starting gearing points for 10.5 boosted? and what spurs are you guys running?
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Old 11-09-2011, 01:04 AM   #403
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Good idea but most saddlepacks are flat underneath. That stickpack has bumps underneath that fall in the slots. Not sure if a flat lipo will stay on the chassis without anything in the slots.
On flat surface will stay, I drive this option with tc5 long time when pack was moved far from center line and bulbs was up
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Old 11-09-2011, 01:15 AM   #404
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All depends on track lenght,open track,tech track,type of motor(brand) and so on.
To determine a rollout or gearing you need to consider more then just the motor and if it is boosted or not.
For example.
At our track if we run blinky(non timing) we use a FDR of 4.0 with 13.5 motors in TC stock.
If we run with timing,boost and turbo, it can come as high as 7.9.
This with the same brand of motor.
Pro10 is the same.
If your running a Tekin motor with timing, you have to let it run at higher rpm's then for example a GM or LRP motor.
This because the Tekin has less torq then the other 2 mentioned motors
Are you running on a nitro track? or a small track?

regards Roy


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anybody suggest some starting gearing points for 10.5 boosted? and what spurs are you guys running?
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Old 11-09-2011, 01:19 AM   #405
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anybody suggest some starting gearing points for 10.5 boosted? and what spurs are you guys running?
Boosted with which ESC? How big is the track?

Mostly I run an 81 spur (48dp) and then I fix the roll-out with the pinions and tire size. On a large track like Heemstede Holland I run about 37mm roll-out with a HW ESC and a GM of Trinity motor.
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