PDX-Spike

Broke one of my links. Made my own using the long Losi turnbuckles and some shock ends from an Xray (could have used ball cups). Just make sure the links are the exact same length as the original.

I like the new links better because they won't break and they add a little extra weight. Even so, I'm adding 21 grams of dead weight to the car just to get it ROAR legal.

CDW

Mark,
It really depends on what servo you are running. I know that the Futaba's use anywhere from 30-50 mah and the JR's use about 50-80 mah. I personally re-charge between every round, that way, I don't have to really worry about it.

Hope this helps,
CD

Rick1257

My car pulls to the side when giving throttle checked the tweak its good any ideas

WIITA

iTrader: (43)

First check the rear motor plate and make sure it's not bent. I have seen this happen a few times. Also check your rear axle spacing from center.

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

Maybe your diff is to tight. Also loosen all your pod screws and re-tighten them. Sometimes the pod can tweak and you not know it. Just to be on the safe side.

asfastasu

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know the weight of the tubelube that CRC gives in their kits? Gen-X in specific?

TrevCoult

White cap - 7K

Trev

whynot

iTrader: (18)

Maybe you have diff. axel ride height adjusters in the rear. just a guess

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

With on power wandering or torque steer I have seen that traction from side to side differences can cause it.

could be too much compound on one tire. Or different diameters of tire. and if it is pulling one way only then it looks like there is more weight on one rear tire and under load it will allow the inside one to slip.

check the balance of your car with and then without the rear pod attached (full race weight)

other than that if you are running a bit of toe out that can cause a wander under power.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

90% of the time this is it. Also check your center pivot for slop. A center pivot with side to side slop can cause this problem as well.

So:

1. Check tire diameter.
2. Make sure that the rear axle is properly centered.
3. Check center pivot.
4. Loosen all pod screws and "square-up" the rear pod.

whynot

iTrader: (18)

I installing the graphite brace for the long upper arms and was wondering which way the brace goes on. does the cross bar go forward? and the counter sunk holes go up on the inside so the upper a arm mount can sit in it.So that means I need a button head screw to tighten this up? thanks

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

Are most people running the tweak springs just barley touching? The car is very centered so the springs does not even need to touch to get center.

GeorgePravata

iTrader: (171)

I'm looking into getting an GEN XL can you tell if i still need to make the front end wider like i did on my old GEN X. Or does this kit have that already

CDW

Yes, you will need button head screws to tighten the Caster Block to the Front Brace. Sounds like you got it...
CD

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

If you want to run the long arms you will need to buy the extra parts. It is NOT included with the kit.