artoftatt2

iTrader: (77)

anyone have any pics of the long arms on their car? I'm a having a bit of an issue putting mine on....

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Hey Dumper,

What are the differences in the three Black Art bodies you guys sell?

Thanks
EA

al dente

Does that mean that frank is yoda?

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

What is the effect of stiffening the front end via the CF and pin braces?

johnnywhopper

i knew i liked this guy. you're the man hollywood.

jarkko

I was also having difficulties figuring out how to use these parts. The pictures in this thread show quite well how you do it
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...ewtopic&t=2034

artoftatt2

iTrader: (77)

thank you...did you use lock nuts on your long screws? i was just wondering if their is a part number for that hardware?

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

The big thing the c/f H brace does is elevate the upper hinge block reducing camber gain. You would use that for high grip situations or usually mod racing. When you have low to med grip, run without the H brace to get enough steering. The pin brace will further stiffen and support the caster block and reduce steering only slightly in high grip situations. Take the pin brace out if you are lacking steering.

Some were asking about using the new long upper arm vs the older long pillow ball. They are the same geometry, but the long upper arm is more durable and versatile. The long pillow ball could bend. In order to mount up the long upper arm in "long" setting, you need 4 x 3/16" button heads to mount the castor blocks into the c/f and then you need 4 x 4/40 lock nuts to secure the c/f to the lower arms. You will need to dremmel just slightly the very back side of the castor blocks where the steering turnbuckles come up against them to get enough steering throw.

Again, the braces should only be used for high grip and or fast corner entry.

dumper

iTrader: (1)

The Audi R8C has basically become the standard for "spec" type racing. In classes 13.5 and slower this body changes direction very quickly and also provides enough rear downforce at those speeds. It has a ton of steering without losing the rear of the car. We run it with just a little forward rake (front lower than the rear)

The Bomb-R was designed to conform to the EFRA body rules. EFRA layed out a set of dimensions, and if you max them out, you get the Bomb-R or the AMR or the Parma EEE (I think that is what it is called). They all kind of look the same, and basically handle the same. Alot of rear downforce, good for 10.5 or faster. I have tested it in "spec" classes and it is not bad, I just like the quicker transition of the R8C better. Now with the "spec" classes getting faster, alot of people have gone to this type of body due to the added stability. Some mod guys still run the R8C with a little more forward rake than the "spec" guys would. It is all personal preference I guess.

The R10 is the open cockpit body made by Black Art. I have always loved open cockpit bodies because they look more realistic. It meets the rules for some of the European sactioning bodies (not sure which ones). It handles alot like the R8C. I tested it quite a bit a couple of years ago but never had the guts to pull the trigger and run it at a big race. You know how we RC racers are, sometimes it is hard to get us to change things.

Hope this helps....

dumper

dumper

iTrader: (1)

You need the 3277 graphite brace to run the long arm. Mount the caster blocks in the inner set of countersunk holes using four short button head screws. You then use nuts to secure the screws that hold the course ride height spacer (3mm, 4mm, or 5mm) in place. Move the hinge pin to the furthest hole in the arm, and everthing else bolts together as normal. You can run short arm with the dual upper arm just be replacing the stock upper arm with the 3348 dual upper arm and using the inner set of holes. Everything bolts together just like stock.

Brian

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Perfect....Thanks for the detailed explanation!!

EA

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Dumper, you got a PM bro.

Kave

iTrader: (17)

I have had nothing but extreme success with the R8 on every 12th scale I have ever ran it on. It can make a car significantly better!

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

It has been suggested to me that my car would be far better with a proper thrust bearing. Is this the case and if so what thrust are people using?

avs

iTrader: (2)

slapmaster makes thrust bearing kits for most applications. ashford and others stock them and they are available directly from slapmaster. they are nicely made and the alloy nylock nut is more reliable than the plastic nuts most kits provide.

if you are like me and tend to test the durability of components, then a thrust bearing makes sense, it is definitely a more crashworthy arrangement.

but if you drive clean and fast and are after maximum performance, then the IRS style diff can(will) be the most free(diff action) arrangement.

the reason for this:
1 pro: the thrust bearing will stay smooth after hard side impacts compared to the flanged bearing that otherwise must take the thrust loads.
2 con: the thrust bearing and the outer flanged bearing both need to rotate during diff action. so that when you add the thrust bearing you increase the drag of the diff action (2 bearings compared to one)

i don't see how adding a thrust bearing will improve performance, but it could help maintain performance?