Victor Vector

iTrader: (9)

Help wanted.................

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

http://www.corallyusa.com/setups/PHI09_johnson2.pdf

Try this to start, his current setup is slightly different with straight arms, but it should get you in the right direction.

BJohnson

Corally USA is currently updating their website. This includes some new straight arm setups including Snowbirds setups. Watch the website in the next week or two for the updates.

Chris08527

iTrader: (16)

Hey Brad,
was looking at your setup sheet posted and under steering it says "NEW" . . .???

also under notes it says "wide FR hex and wide RR hex", where you only running the wide hexes on the right side of the car???

MAD916

Jacko Im chocked full of snowbirds info and sold you the damn car PM me you goober..............

BJohnson

Chris - I was running the new steering bellcrank that mounts to the chassis. I have since gone back to the bellcrank that mounts to the topdeck. I prefer the topdeck bellcrank much more.

The setup calls for the Corally wide hexes on the front end and the Xray extra wide hexes on the rear end. It was a typo on the setup sheet. The idea is to reach the 190mm in the rear and 187mm in the front. Those seem to be the magical numbers for track width with this car so far.

Thanks - Brad

Chris08527

iTrader: (16)

brad,
do you have a part # on the Corally wide hexes??? i only see standard 79140 and narrow 79141. . .

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

You could call the standard hexes "the wide ones"...

Chris08527

iTrader: (16)

cool thanks bill

rcterp

iTrader: (35)

So I just ran this car for the first time last weekend and it was awesome. I did quickly find out that the aluminum steering blocks are must. Besides those, anything else going to surprise me?

PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

I'd say look out for the inner camber link mounts. They can break the shock tower in a good crash. Make sure you use a wide washer between them and the shock tower to spread out the load.

samstheman2

Hey Jamie, having ran the car for several months at the C, you should think about changing the c-hubs to the old Corally Phi I hubs. The plastic ones that come stock seemed to flex under impact and the knuckle would literally pop out...I recall that happening to me many times and cost me many mains.

KR145

iTrader: (8)

After having my new ride a couple of weeks(EU kit w/ Lipo chassis & straight arms,spool).I have to say this car is pretty sweet.2 club races and a 3 day race weekend so far on it and it is solid.I haven't done much for set up other than what MAD916 told me to do.(the NorthWest Corally Guru and owner of the track I race).Very consistant car.....more so than me,the driver for sure.

I like the new pivot mounts.Didnt like the hoaky plastic steering knuckle/c- hubs,but who does.Go aluminum there and never look back.I havent gone to the small pulleys yet to line up the rear bones,but that is next.Big pulleys seem to work fine but the angle of the bones seems a little drastic.

My only build issue,which was kind of odd, was that it came w/ all 4 cvd bones the same and not the +2mm longer(#79182A) ones for the front.So I had to buy those to get it right.Not sure what happened there,the manual I have has the Foam kit #01621 on the cover and shows all 4 cvd's the same part number(#79182).hmmm.
Anyone else encounter this?Typo in the manual? Just curious.

Great car.easy to work on.No gay a$$ anodized aluminum,just a clean looking ride.IMO

rcterp

iTrader: (35)

What is the reasoning behind the double rear shock tower?

clparsons123

iTrader: (2)

when you only have one shock tower it flex to much causing problems plus they break really easy